Magnet & reed switch boot opening
Discussion
I've read about the Modwise kit to open the boot using a magnet & reed switch, and I'd like to implement a similar system myself on my Griffith.
I understand it uses a microswitch on the door unlock mechanism, so that power is only fed to the reed switch when the car is unlocked. Has anyone got the fitting instructions, or a photo of the mounting of the microswitch? and a circuit diagram?
Any info would help a lot
Thanks
I understand it uses a microswitch on the door unlock mechanism, so that power is only fed to the reed switch when the car is unlocked. Has anyone got the fitting instructions, or a photo of the mounting of the microswitch? and a circuit diagram?
Any info would help a lot
Thanks
[quote=NigelGRF]I've read about the Modwise kit to open the boot using a magnet & reed switch, and I'd like to implement a similar system myself on my Griffith.
I understand it uses a microswitch on the door unlock mechanism, so that power is only fed to the reed switch when the car is unlocked. Has anyone got the fitting instructions, or a photo of the mounting of the microswitch? and a circuit diagram?
Any info would help a lot
Thanks
[/quote
You will need a long arm micro switch, obviously the reed switch , magnet and a relay.
You could just buy the complete kit from tvrssw.
If you do have the 5 wire actuator, it doesn’t matter.
I understand it uses a microswitch on the door unlock mechanism, so that power is only fed to the reed switch when the car is unlocked. Has anyone got the fitting instructions, or a photo of the mounting of the microswitch? and a circuit diagram?
Any info would help a lot
Thanks
[/quote
You will need a long arm micro switch, obviously the reed switch , magnet and a relay.
You could just buy the complete kit from tvrssw.
If you do have the 5 wire actuator, it doesn’t matter.
David Beer]igelGRF said:
I've read about the Modwise kit to open the boot using a magnet & reed switch, and I'd like to implement a similar system myself on my Griffith.
I understand it uses a microswitch on the door unlock mechanism, so that power is only fed to the reed switch when the car is unlocked. Has anyone got the fitting instructions, or a photo of the mounting of the microswitch? and a circuit diagram?
Any info would help a lot
Thanks
[/quote
You will need a long arm micro switch, obviously the reed switch , magnet and a relay.
You could just buy the complete kit from tvrssw.
If you do have the 5 wire actuator, it doesn’t matter.
Did you speak with https://www.tvrssw.com/ ?I understand it uses a microswitch on the door unlock mechanism, so that power is only fed to the reed switch when the car is unlocked. Has anyone got the fitting instructions, or a photo of the mounting of the microswitch? and a circuit diagram?
Any info would help a lot
Thanks
[/quote
You will need a long arm micro switch, obviously the reed switch , magnet and a relay.
You could just buy the complete kit from tvrssw.
If you do have the 5 wire actuator, it doesn’t matter.
If you want diy info, drop me a line. I bet you don’t. !!
A boot actuator can be operated by a remote control for as little as £6.93 + delivery + cable and connectors which are very cheap
Click Me To Reveal All
Click Me To Reveal All
Polly Grigora said:
A boot actuator can be operated by a remote control for as little as £6.93 + delivery + cable and connectors which are very cheap
Click Me To Reveal All
That’s lovely ! A magnet slipped into the tvr key fob is not visible ! Click Me To Reveal All
Each to their own I guess.
I did it last weekend using the wiring diagram in this thread:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I took permanent live from the purple wire for the courtesy light which you can get at just behind the passenger seat. That powers both positives shown in the diagram.
I used this reed switch, hidden behind the number plate. Note you need a normally closed switch (which seems counter intuitive to me, but anyway this switch has both).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09TP5BSXN?psc=1&...
Generic relay from eBay / Amazon / motor factor.
Obviously the boot will open when the car is locked, but I figure someone would need to know where the reed switch was AND have a handy magnet to get any benefit from it!
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I took permanent live from the purple wire for the courtesy light which you can get at just behind the passenger seat. That powers both positives shown in the diagram.
I used this reed switch, hidden behind the number plate. Note you need a normally closed switch (which seems counter intuitive to me, but anyway this switch has both).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09TP5BSXN?psc=1&...
Generic relay from eBay / Amazon / motor factor.
Obviously the boot will open when the car is locked, but I figure someone would need to know where the reed switch was AND have a handy magnet to get any benefit from it!
miniman said:
I did it last weekend using the wiring diagram in this thread:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Note you need a normally closed switch (which seems counter intuitive to me, but anyway this switch has both).
Oh no, am very confused nowhttps://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Note you need a normally closed switch (which seems counter intuitive to me, but anyway this switch has both).
Surely the correct reed switch is of the normally open type like the one shown in the below diagram
If one was to use a normally closed type reed switch the boot would be normally open when the vehicle is in motion and the driver would have to lean out of the window, reach out to the rear of the vehicle and hold a magnet against the area where the reed switch is fitted to keep the boot closed
Regarding my above opinion and taking into consideration the position of the reed switch in your car which apparently is behind the number plate............
Should you ever be followed by the police and they notice that whilst driving you are also covering the rear number plate with your hand and lower arm preventing them from carrying out a vehicle ID check.......Yes you've guessed it correctly.......Big Trouble With The Law Incoming
Yes I initially ordered normally open switch. The description of the switch I ended up with is:
NC means normally closed: when the magnet is together, the circuit is conductive (light on); If the magnet separates, the circuit is non-conductive (lights off)
Which seems somewhat counter intuitive but I tested with continuity tester before fitting and as described bringing the magnet into proximity connects the circuit.
NC means normally closed: when the magnet is together, the circuit is conductive (light on); If the magnet separates, the circuit is non-conductive (lights off)
Which seems somewhat counter intuitive but I tested with continuity tester before fitting and as described bringing the magnet into proximity connects the circuit.
I must have posted up the logic and components I used at the time but somehow managed to rig up a boot release circuit that (usually) would work by holding the driver’s side door release button in. Worked regardless of locked/unlocked and the activation time varied according to ambient temperature… didn’t work if very cold or car battery was low. I recall I used a big capacitor to induce the ‘delay’.
Had quite forgotten that, be interesting to see if it still usually works when I recommission the car (having a body off currently)
Had quite forgotten that, be interesting to see if it still usually works when I recommission the car (having a body off currently)
Polly Grigora said:
A boot actuator can be operated by a remote control for as little as £6.93 + delivery + cable and connectors which are very cheap
Click Me To Reveal All
I installed a 4 channel one for doors and boot (and 1 spare) but the problem with these is that they are prone to being triggered by other RF transmitters nearby. I would often find the doors and boot open for no apparent reason (I keep the car unlocked in the garage).Click Me To Reveal All
I had toyed with the idea of using the 4th channel for the ignition button for remote start, but after the above experience thought better of it .
FarmyardPants said:
I installed a 4 channel one for doors and boot (and 1 spare) but the problem with these is that they are prone to being triggered by other RF transmitters nearby. I would often find the doors and boot open for no apparent reason (I keep the car unlocked in the garage).
I had toyed with the idea of using the 4th channel for the ignition button for remote start, but after the above experience thought better of it .
That’s why better for a magnet and reed switch. If worried about legal stuff, I had mine in the rear light. However the legal stuff is complete rubbish, how many hatchbacks with their tailgate up have no number plate. I had toyed with the idea of using the 4th channel for the ignition button for remote start, but after the above experience thought better of it .
All parts are available from farnell.
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