Starting After Layup?

[mozza42]

With winter and lockdown contributing to less usage, is there a method whereby the engine can easily be turned over to pump (not very viscous) oil around before firing?

I hear SP6 engines can suffer from lack of oil at the top end on cold starts.

Car is a 2003 Tuscan. I think it cracks a few times before firing by design, but how to make this longer? Or is it needed?

[dvs_dave]

No need to overthink it. Just start it and hold the revs at 12-1500rpm for 10s or so, then just drive off normally.

[GreenV8S]

It'll be in the same state now as it was after the first day. The oil will have drained from anywhere it was going to drain from long ago, and all the bearing surfaces will still be covered by an oil film. Don't over think it - just make sure you have a charged battery, and get it fired up. You don't want to rev it hard from cold, but by the same token cranking it over waiting for the oil pressure to come up isn't particularly great for the cam either.

If it's been a year or two since you last checked, give the fuel hoses a check before you fire it up. It's depressingly common for these to turn into a sprinkler system after a few years.

[sixor8]

You could disconnect the fuel pump (probably only a single spade connector). This would prevent washing of the bores too if you intend to crank it a while to get oil pressure.

But as mentioned above, starting it and driving it as soon as possible is the best way.

If it's been many months, the fuel may have gone off a bit but this is often overstated, it takes quite some time for it to degrade. I've had vehicles with no extra fuel put in for 6 months that start up and run fine.

[Pothole]

sixor8 said:

You could disconnect the fuel pump (probably only a single spade connector). This would prevent washing of the bores too if you intend to crank it a while to get oil pressure.

But as mentioned above, starting it and driving it as soon as possible is the best way.

If it's been many months, the fuel may have gone off a bit but this is often overstated, it takes quite some time for it to degrade. I've had vehicles with no extra fuel put in for 6 months that start up and run fine.

My one of my bikes starts and runs on 3 year old fuel at the moment.

[RONV]

I have just prepped 3 of my cars as I do every year after the have been standing a long time, I take the plugs our and WD in each bore then a couple of squirts of engine oil loosely put the plugs back in and leave over night, next day remove plugs and turn the engine over it oils the bores and the piston rings. then start up you gat a little smoke but it soon clears. Best of luck and hope for some use this year.

[PuffsBack]

I have the RaceProved pre-oiler on my Sagaris. After a layup it normally takes about 15 secs of cranking to get the oil pressure up to 8PSI or thereabouts at which point it will let the engine fire. Its usually about half that in normal use (though feels like 30 seconds when jumping back in the car after filling up when there is a queue of people behind you waiting to use the pump!)

[GreenV8S]

Is this pre-oiler some sort of accumulator like an accu-sump, or just a switch to stop the engine firing until it sees oil pressure?

I don't understand the point of a switch, but I also don't understand why an accumulator would need cranking to build up oil pressure - it should provide pressure immediately.

[Andy JB]

I have to say i tend to take mine off the road for 5-6 months over winter but i do like to try & drive it in between pref when dry to keep everything moving & prevents anything seizing, clutch, brakes & recirculate oil etc. Let fuel pressure build then increase revs to circ oil & pressure - its a balance.

I am always considering after many years whether it does more harm than good starting it without driving it, as anything less than 10 miles you get crank case acids build up etc so technically probably best to leave it standing unless you can take it for a proper drive & warm up properly. The temptation is always there to fire it up when weather is inclement if it can't be driven, but always tried to avoid this as practice which seems to hold it in good stead over 17 years.

I do tend to use a fuel stabiliser too prevents gumming. Agree with comments about fuel lines - I am getting mine changed this year. Last year i had a dramatic but very small water pipe leak - pipe looked brand new no sign of deterioration tiniest of holes but I had a thought if this was a fuel line i wouldn't have a car now - becoming a service item!