Rover v8 sump oil level
Discussion
I'm trying to stop a persistent oil leak from the back of the engine- I've made up a 3mm neoprene sump gasket but still have a leak from either the back of the sump where the spreader bar sits, or possibly the crank oil seal, although it leaks without the engine running. Does anyone know how high the oil is in the engine once its over the minimum point on the dip stick? I'm assuming it must be higher than the sump seal to the block, but below the crank seal? I thought it unlikely to be as as high the crank seal, as this would mean a large amount of the crank counter balance would be in the oil with the engine running which would aerate the sump oil, something I gather to be avoided (?)
I removed my sump full of oil once, it was max on the dipstick and if I remember correctly sat about 20mm below the sump to block gasket. I had a persistent oil leak from the same area on a newly rebuilt 500, after numerous attempts at resealing the sump it turned out to be coming from the crucifix seals
I have had a similar problem recently and was also wondering how high the oil level gets at the back. Anyway changed the gasket with a traditional cork version but found a small leak dripping of the nearside bolt at the back of the sump apparent after 2 days. No apparent losses anywhere else.
Didn’t want to over tighten the bolt to over compress the gasket and am using 12nm now and the drip seems to have stopped. In the meantime I have invested in a spreader bar from Rimmers and have bought some stainless studs to swap with the bolts for the next time I’m under the car. Hope it will make relocating the sump and keeping gasket in place slightly easier.
Didn’t want to over tighten the bolt to over compress the gasket and am using 12nm now and the drip seems to have stopped. In the meantime I have invested in a spreader bar from Rimmers and have bought some stainless studs to swap with the bolts for the next time I’m under the car. Hope it will make relocating the sump and keeping gasket in place slightly easier.
phillpot said:
Surely none of the crank should be submerged or hitting the oil in the sump as it rotates?
Can't be that difficult to take a few measurements and work it out
Only if I knew exactly how many litres of oil are in there. Im assuming oil from the big ends gets thrown up under the pistons to lubricate the lower half of the engine, so the crank is no where near the oil then. Its all spotless now, so hopefully I can trace it back. Can't be that difficult to take a few measurements and work it out
Can the cruciform seals be replaced just by dropping the main bearing cap in situ or will this upset the crank seal?
I managed to replace mine in situ, obviously had to remove the main cap along with the cross bolts and was very careful not to move the crank seal, put some new crucifix seals in with a tiny bit of rvt on the top as advised by a reputable engine builder. Was tricky to get the main cap back in as the new seals stick out quite abit but no drips after.
Also check the mating surface of the sump is actually flat. They're really prone to warping around the bolt holes when people "nip them up" a bit, and will cause a leak. The sump on my Vitesse leaked even with the previous owner fitting a new gasket, and it wasn't until I laid a straight edge over the mating surface that I saw how lumpy it was.
blitzracing said:
Only if I knew exactly how many litres of oil are in there.
May be we are at crossed purposes here but why does the amount of oil in there matter?Presuming the sump is still on the engine can you not pull the dipstick then hold it against the outside of the tube and see where the 'full' mark is in the side of the sump?
Just had a look on my Griff, not a lot of room but should be doable if your car is on stands or a hoist
never changed the seals so, sorry, can't answer that one.
KelvinatorNZ said:
Also check the mating surface of the sump is actually flat. They're really prone to warping around the bolt holes when people "nip them up" a bit, and will cause a leak. The sump on my Vitesse leaked even with the previous owner fitting a new gasket, and it wasn't until I laid a straight edge over the mating surface that I saw how lumpy it was.
^^ This is the issue. Hoping a half turn on the sump bolts will let the 3mm neoprene compress into the less than flat area. Time will tell once some heat gets in there.Gassing Station | General TVR Stuff & Gossip | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff