Any alarm/electrical help available???

[roseytvr]

Hi folks
I hope your all keeping safe...…
I have been using lockdown sorting out all the dodgy electrics on my Tamora and have taken days, even weeks getting to grips with it all and sorting out all the gremlins. A self tapper through the transmission tunnel straight into the PCB in the Relay and Splice unit bridging 4 solders wasn't helping and explain quite a few of the problems!
Anyways I digress. I have an aftermarket (Laserline) alarm and immobiliser that had not been fully fitted and had a number of wiring faults. I have sorted this and now have a fully operational boot opener, alarm and immobiliser with the exception of the power locking of the doors. The doors and boot are alarmed and work but they are not locking when the alarm arms. This is because none of the cables have been connected so my next job during lockdown is to sort this out.
The installation instructions are giving me 4 different diagrams depending on the power locking control within the car. The four options are:

Negative control ie negative pulses to lock and unlock the car
Positive Control ie positive pulses to lock and unlock the car
Lock drive control whatever this might mean!
Electro-Pneumatic Drive control. I've discounted this as it appears to need top run off a compressor that I am sure we haven't got!

So the big question is what type of control do I have? The existing cabling appears to only have one cable that controls the locking and unlocking (Its pink, number 138 running from J4 Alarm 1 to the RAS unit). I understand from a well respected specialist that this single wire may operate positive to lock and negative to unlock - is this right? If so my next question will be how I cable it but for now any advice going on what system TVR used and how power locking was controlled?

TIA

Ian

[Steve_D]

You need to find and identify the central locking unit. Once you have that you have a chance of finding wiring and pinout info.

Steve

[Penelope Stopit]

Have you considered checking lock and unlock signals at drivers or passengers door ECUs/

J3 and J41





If you must have positive to lock and negative to unlock use option 2 Positive Control positive pulses to lock and unlock the car

Then having fitted a relay somewhere, wire positive unlock pulsed cable to relay coil terminal 86 and negative earth relay coil terminal 85, wire the relay contact terminal 30 to negative earth, relay terminal 87 will then give a negative pulse output for unlock

Suggest you concentrate on door lock/unlock inputs at a door ECU

Things below to consider if choosing to connect at pink number 138 running from J4 Alarm 1 to the RAS unit

There could be problems wiring positive lock and negative unlock cables to pink number 138 running from J4 Alarm 1 to the RAS unit

There is also the possibility that a lock signal could be switched by the cars original alarm while at the same time an unlock signal was being switched by the Laserline alarm.....smoke, ECU burnout, 2 x alarm units blown????????

Perhaps a low value fuse in each pulse cable would protect the alarms and door ECUs

[RobXjcoupe]

You could fit an additional alarm operated only solenoid which will push/pull the master lock on the car, usually drivers side. That way the original wiring opening and closing the locks stays untouched. No chance of putting a double signal into the cars original lock wiring.
Then just wire the new solenoid to the alarm lock signal wire. Hardest part of the installation is correctly fitting new solenoid to operate via another connector rod on the master solenoid already fitted to your car.

[Penelope Stopit]

RobXjcoupe said:

You could fit an additional alarm operated only solenoid which will push/pull the master lock on the car, usually drivers side. That way the original wiring opening and closing the locks stays untouched. No chance of putting a double signal into the cars original lock wiring.
Then just wire the new solenoid to the alarm lock signal wire. Hardest part of the installation is correctly fitting new solenoid to operate via another connector rod on the master solenoid already fitted to your car.

Didn't think that was possible with the Tamora, thought the solenoids where in the B Posts at the catches and didn't do any switching

[Penelope Stopit]

Any luck?

[roseytvr]

Thanks for your input on this. Unfortunately I had to admit defeat in the end as it was outside of my skill set! I can now arm the alarm at all entry points, set the immobiliser and lock everything except the passenger door. I have tidied up all the cables and carpet, put it back together and will let a specialist have a look when I can.
Thanks for all contributions

[Penelope Stopit]

Ok then, thanks for the update