Track days and Tyres?
Discussion
Hi,
I'm about to sign up for the next TVRCC Track Day in July. However, I am also ready to change my rear tyres, which are worn to the limit.
Is it worth holding off with the new tyres until after the track day? Or, should I hold off on the new ones until after the track?
Obviously, I wouldn't want to kill my new tyres as soon as I had them (money issue)...and there may be an issue of the new tyres being slippy if I can't wear them in completely prior to the track.
What is the safer & most cost effective option in your opinion?
Also...as an aside...can anyone recommend an inexpensive helmet to purchase for the day?
I'm about to sign up for the next TVRCC Track Day in July. However, I am also ready to change my rear tyres, which are worn to the limit.
Is it worth holding off with the new tyres until after the track day? Or, should I hold off on the new ones until after the track?
Obviously, I wouldn't want to kill my new tyres as soon as I had them (money issue)...and there may be an issue of the new tyres being slippy if I can't wear them in completely prior to the track.
What is the safer & most cost effective option in your opinion?
Also...as an aside...can anyone recommend an inexpensive helmet to purchase for the day?
I'd leave changing tyres until after the track day if I were you. Aside from the fact that they may not scrubbed in fully, the heat caused by the tread blocks moving around will lead to big wear. When you say they're down to the limit, I assume you mean the wear bars, which are usually at 2mm, compared to the legal limit of 1.6mm, so you should be fine. The only proviso is if it's wet, you'll have to exercise a bit more caution with heavily worn tyres.
Have fun.
7.
Have fun.
7.
It also depends how old your tyres are. The best rubber is on the outside as well. New tyres will be safer butn you maywell ruin them depending on driving style. Old tyres: less grip and maybe illegal after; new tyres: too much tread and maybe expensive to replace a second time but cheaper than bodywork. Life's a b.......
I advise you to change them before the track day. In fact if I could make a suggestion, you may be looking at this from the wrong perspective. You are about to put yourself and your pride and joy into a relatively dangerous environment, and one where you have a lot of learning to do. I suggest you should concentrate on making the day as safe, enjoyable and educational as possible. It only takes a momentary lapse of attention or loss of control to cause damage that will far outweigh a couple of hundred quid on tyres etc. Get the car in absolutely tip top condition before the track day.
Make sure you have plenty of material on the brake pads. Track days can go through pads very quickly, and starting with part worn pads might see you running out during the day. Even if you don't run out, the thicker the pads are the less heat will be conducted into the brake fluid. Brake temperatures can be critical if you are new to track days and drive a fast car. Ironically the better you get at judging the cornering speeds and carrying more speed into corners, the less grief you give the brakes. Initially you will be jumping on the brakes hard at every corner and the poor things are going to suffer. If the fluid has been in for longer than 6 months I'd consider flushing them before the track day.
As far as tyres go, the less experienced you are the more important it is to have plenty of tread on the tyre. New tyres are far more progressive and forgiving than old ones. Old tyres also have a particularly nasty habit of changing characteristics as you get to the bottom of the tread, if you're an old and you might be comfortable with your ability to cope with this, but it is the last thing you need when you're trying to get to grips with the car.
If you're taking new or new-ish tyres on track, it is very important to get them scrubbed in and cured beforehand. Luckily it's easy to do this time of year. You need to get a couple of hundred miles on the tyres to clean off the release agents and buff the surface, then the important thing is to get them good and hot and then let them cool down naturally over a few hours. This physically toughens the rubber and gives you more grip and less wear and heat generation. I've explained the procedure for curing times a couple of times in the past so do a search for the explanation, it isn't difficult and doesn't cause any particular wear and tear, but it makes a huge difference to the behaviour of the tyres.
Make sure you have plenty of material on the brake pads. Track days can go through pads very quickly, and starting with part worn pads might see you running out during the day. Even if you don't run out, the thicker the pads are the less heat will be conducted into the brake fluid. Brake temperatures can be critical if you are new to track days and drive a fast car. Ironically the better you get at judging the cornering speeds and carrying more speed into corners, the less grief you give the brakes. Initially you will be jumping on the brakes hard at every corner and the poor things are going to suffer. If the fluid has been in for longer than 6 months I'd consider flushing them before the track day.
As far as tyres go, the less experienced you are the more important it is to have plenty of tread on the tyre. New tyres are far more progressive and forgiving than old ones. Old tyres also have a particularly nasty habit of changing characteristics as you get to the bottom of the tread, if you're an old and you might be comfortable with your ability to cope with this, but it is the last thing you need when you're trying to get to grips with the car.
If you're taking new or new-ish tyres on track, it is very important to get them scrubbed in and cured beforehand. Luckily it's easy to do this time of year. You need to get a couple of hundred miles on the tyres to clean off the release agents and buff the surface, then the important thing is to get them good and hot and then let them cool down naturally over a few hours. This physically toughens the rubber and gives you more grip and less wear and heat generation. I've explained the procedure for curing times a couple of times in the past so do a search for the explanation, it isn't difficult and doesn't cause any particular wear and tear, but it makes a huge difference to the behaviour of the tyres.
Thanks for the advice.
I've just had the car in for a major service and will be replacing the break disks and pads all round within the next fortnight (hopefully sufficient time to fully bed them in).
My main concern was with safety...primarily whether worn, but low tread tyres would be preferable to new, but not worn-in tyres.
I won't be thrashing the car as this is my first track day. I'm definately treating it as a learning experience and will hopefully get the benefit of an instructor for much of my time on the track. After only 9 months of ownership, I remain fully aware that the car's performance still greatly exceeds my ability behind the wheel. LOL
I've just had the car in for a major service and will be replacing the break disks and pads all round within the next fortnight (hopefully sufficient time to fully bed them in).
My main concern was with safety...primarily whether worn, but low tread tyres would be preferable to new, but not worn-in tyres.
I won't be thrashing the car as this is my first track day. I'm definately treating it as a learning experience and will hopefully get the benefit of an instructor for much of my time on the track. After only 9 months of ownership, I remain fully aware that the car's performance still greatly exceeds my ability behind the wheel. LOL
I'd suggest you stick with the tyres you currently have on for the simple reason that you're familiar with how the car handles on them having driven them for several thousand miles. A few weeks experience on new rubber won't be the same. Having said that, I'd want fresh tyres on if it was raining...
As for the helmet, the key thing is to get something with a kitemark that fits you well. A good helmet should pinch your cheeks slightly (if full face) and should feel like its gripping your head. It should also not move up and down on your head even with the strap off.
I prefer Shoei ones as they fit well and are well made - a good car one should cost under £200. Avoid the cheap resin-type helmets and go for the composite fibre glass style ones - they offer better protection. Beyond the £200 mark you're just paying for fancier composite materials and fireproof linings - not really necessary for track days. Get a decent one - after all, you only get one head!
Edited to add - also don't forget to change your brake fluid. It's hydroscopic and absorbs water over time lowering the boiling point and causing it to boil and create steam bubbles. This gives a spongy pedal. It's good practice to change your brake fluid after every track day. Brakes take an absolute hammering on track days - I remember a set of 'sports pads' on a a race-spec Mk 1 Golf GTI I had catch fire in the paddock at Cadwell Park, once!
>> Edited by peterrosey on Tuesday 14th June 12:25
As for the helmet, the key thing is to get something with a kitemark that fits you well. A good helmet should pinch your cheeks slightly (if full face) and should feel like its gripping your head. It should also not move up and down on your head even with the strap off.
I prefer Shoei ones as they fit well and are well made - a good car one should cost under £200. Avoid the cheap resin-type helmets and go for the composite fibre glass style ones - they offer better protection. Beyond the £200 mark you're just paying for fancier composite materials and fireproof linings - not really necessary for track days. Get a decent one - after all, you only get one head!
Edited to add - also don't forget to change your brake fluid. It's hydroscopic and absorbs water over time lowering the boiling point and causing it to boil and create steam bubbles. This gives a spongy pedal. It's good practice to change your brake fluid after every track day. Brakes take an absolute hammering on track days - I remember a set of 'sports pads' on a a race-spec Mk 1 Golf GTI I had catch fire in the paddock at Cadwell Park, once!
>> Edited by peterrosey on Tuesday 14th June 12:25
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