Speed six oil pipes
Discussion
Clean the fittings before you undo them. Check the size of the fittings on the new hoses are the same. Check the fittings are the same angle, you cannot twist them.
You won’t lose much oil from cooler to block or cooler to pump but the pump can syphon back from the tank, the scavenge can’t as the inlet is above the oil level but the pressure pump picks up through a tube in the oil tank that is near the base of the tank.
I would remove the under tray, clean the fittings carefully threads especially as you undo them, crack them all making sure the hex nipples that fit in the block don’t turn, get the plasters out for your knuckles, be ready for oil slick and away you go. Personally I would drain the oil, take both drain plugs out, get a suction line into the sump or tilt the car to make it drain fully, remove the strainer on the tank inlet side and clean that, take the oil cooler off and flush it through (they are easy to service, just get the O ring kit) you will be surprised what can get caught up in there. Clean the new hoses inside, flush and air line to make sure no nasty dead rats are inside. Refit, get more plasters ready for knuckles. Do the filter while you’re there, again clean before you remove it as the inlet faces up and will catch anything that falls and feed it into the oil gallery. Refill with oil and brew one to wash the bacon banjo down.
Simples if the hoses are right and the spanner’s fit.
J
You won’t lose much oil from cooler to block or cooler to pump but the pump can syphon back from the tank, the scavenge can’t as the inlet is above the oil level but the pressure pump picks up through a tube in the oil tank that is near the base of the tank.
I would remove the under tray, clean the fittings carefully threads especially as you undo them, crack them all making sure the hex nipples that fit in the block don’t turn, get the plasters out for your knuckles, be ready for oil slick and away you go. Personally I would drain the oil, take both drain plugs out, get a suction line into the sump or tilt the car to make it drain fully, remove the strainer on the tank inlet side and clean that, take the oil cooler off and flush it through (they are easy to service, just get the O ring kit) you will be surprised what can get caught up in there. Clean the new hoses inside, flush and air line to make sure no nasty dead rats are inside. Refit, get more plasters ready for knuckles. Do the filter while you’re there, again clean before you remove it as the inlet faces up and will catch anything that falls and feed it into the oil gallery. Refill with oil and brew one to wash the bacon banjo down.
Simples if the hoses are right and the spanner’s fit.
J
All of the above, echoing to make sure the replacements are the right size and shape before you get stuck half way through.
Also check the angle and routing of the pipes when you re-fit, making sure they aren't tight up against chassis rails etc, otherwise movement of the engine can wreck the crimped seals and cause leaks pretty quickly. I found this out the hard way when an ex main dealer put my engine back in and a couple of weeks later I was queuing in Pirtek first thing in the morning panicking about making it to the channel tunnel in time.
Also check the angle and routing of the pipes when you re-fit, making sure they aren't tight up against chassis rails etc, otherwise movement of the engine can wreck the crimped seals and cause leaks pretty quickly. I found this out the hard way when an ex main dealer put my engine back in and a couple of weeks later I was queuing in Pirtek first thing in the morning panicking about making it to the channel tunnel in time.
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