What sort of steering rack is this?
Discussion
Folks, I need to replace the track rods on the steering rack in my Griff (a 1994 pre-serp T5 500, non PAS), however those available from the usual TVR suppliers all look different, assuming the photos are accurate. I ordered a pair from TVR parts however they have a much smaller and male thread on the track rod. Can anyone identify the below please?
(I’ve added the heat shield in the middle)
Thanks!
(I’ve added the heat shield in the middle)
Thanks!
There's no shim however that's a threaded lock nut which in theory you can use to vary the tightness of the ball joint. Both my ball joints seemed tight (in that there was quite a lot of friction when changing the angle of the arms) however one had some play when under load. So if I can find a pair of new ones I'd rather just change them! I'll get all the grease off them tonight and have a better look.
Still no joy with finding replacement track/tie rods or working out what they’re from.
I’ve cleaned my old ones up this afternoon and the ball joint surfaces don’t look too bad so I reassembled one end. There’s a little spring in the end of the rack which presses a cup onto the ball. I added a little washer behind the spring to ensure some load.
You can then tighten the joint up so that it fully compresses the spring and locks the ball solid; I take it the intended procedure is then just to back it off a touch and lock it in place. The joint then moves pretty smoothly over most of its travel.
Given the size of the little spring though I’m wondering about the point of it; any lateral load on the steering will just compress it. Has anyone else fiddled about with a track rod joint of this type? They seem pretty unusual.
I’ve cleaned my old ones up this afternoon and the ball joint surfaces don’t look too bad so I reassembled one end. There’s a little spring in the end of the rack which presses a cup onto the ball. I added a little washer behind the spring to ensure some load.
You can then tighten the joint up so that it fully compresses the spring and locks the ball solid; I take it the intended procedure is then just to back it off a touch and lock it in place. The joint then moves pretty smoothly over most of its travel.
Given the size of the little spring though I’m wondering about the point of it; any lateral load on the steering will just compress it. Has anyone else fiddled about with a track rod joint of this type? They seem pretty unusual.
Edited by ruaricoles on Sunday 17th March 21:51
I 'thought' that these were built, and whilst the ball was still loose, pinned, then there was a specialist press tool that had to be used compress the cap (as a new item there would be no shims and that they never need splitting). That said I do have a set of arms and ball sockets in a protective plastic wrapping that came with a host of spares from a trader, a few years ago that are, just maybe, new ones...I will look tomorrow. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 17th March 23:20
Leaving the spring out initially, adjust the threaded outer cup until full and smooth (but not loose) movement of the track rod is achieved.
If full smooth movement is not achievable, you need a new track rod/cup set.
Spin the inner lock ring out to meet the outer cap marking its position against the rack to register your chosen setting, then dissemble to refit the spring, screwing the cap back down to the ring, holding the cup static and locking with the inner ring, maintaining your earlier setting, use Loctite on the threads too if you wish. Check again for full movement'
Don't preload the spring with shims, it's only there to stop the ball rattling with the small but necessary amount of clearance to the cups. Anyone who has renewed Mini (not MINI) or 1100/1300 suspension ball joints will note similarities with the springs in their lower (unloaded) joints.
If full smooth movement is not achievable, you need a new track rod/cup set.
Spin the inner lock ring out to meet the outer cap marking its position against the rack to register your chosen setting, then dissemble to refit the spring, screwing the cap back down to the ring, holding the cup static and locking with the inner ring, maintaining your earlier setting, use Loctite on the threads too if you wish. Check again for full movement'
Don't preload the spring with shims, it's only there to stop the ball rattling with the small but necessary amount of clearance to the cups. Anyone who has renewed Mini (not MINI) or 1100/1300 suspension ball joints will note similarities with the springs in their lower (unloaded) joints.
Not sure if this is of any help to you but my old power steering rack has these same seperatable joints as yours (you can just see the cups in the picture). The rack is a very early rack with a steel centre section, unlike later racks which were all aluminium. My more recent aluminium rack has the sealed joints.
I think it was the guy in the stores at David Gerald that gave me some info on the early steel rack, may be worth a call. Also, as mentioned in a previous post, try Kiley Clinton as they refurbed the steel rack for me.
I think it was the guy in the stores at David Gerald that gave me some info on the early steel rack, may be worth a call. Also, as mentioned in a previous post, try Kiley Clinton as they refurbed the steel rack for me.
Just to close this one off, Kiley Clinton managed to polish up the ball joints to an acceptable standard, they also tightened up the rack, cleaned it all up, fitted new gaiters and sent it back to me for a very very reasonable price. Many thanks guys.
I've re-fitted it with new track rod ends, steering UJs and ARB bushes and just had the geo corrected at Topcats. The car feels better than it has in a long time.
I've re-fitted it with new track rod ends, steering UJs and ARB bushes and just had the geo corrected at Topcats. The car feels better than it has in a long time.
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