Ford Puma - buying tips

[Andrew Coates]

I am looking for a Ford Puma 1.7, preferably 51 - 52 reg. with low miles. Just wondered what I needed to look for, possible problems etc. Any advice will be much appreciated

[damci]

There was a topic posted recently similar to this you might want to have a read http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

Make sure the cambelts been done - they should of all been done by now if not expect to pay 2-300 quid to get it done.

[Podie]

Andrew Coates said:

I am looking for a Ford Puma 1.7, preferably 51 - 52 reg. with low miles. Just wondered what I needed to look for, possible problems etc. Any advice will be much appreciated

At that age, I'd hold out for the limited edition Thunder, as you get leather, heated screen & mirrors, A/C etc - and nicer wheels.

ETA - 1000 were made in silver and 1000 made in grey... I notice there are a few in black being advertised - these aren't Thunders...

Edited by Podie on Friday 12th October 09:06

[dzm]

First piece of advice would be to head over to Pumapeople.com and read the buyer's guide: http://www.pumapeople.com/index.php?showtopic=2002...

That should give you all the info you need. Most important thing is to check the cambelt has been done, and if not get £250-300 knocked off the price. All 1.7s should have had them replaced by now regardless of mileage.

The Thunder is nice, especially in the dark grey and the Zetec S wheels seem to suit it well. FRPs are going for silly money now as well (less than £5000) so there'll be plenty of options available.

[Podie]

dzm said:

First piece of advice would be to head over to Pumapeople.com and read the buyer's guide: http://www.pumapeople.com/index.php?showtopic=2002...

That should give you all the info you need. Most important thing is to check the cambelt has been done, and if not get £250-300 knocked off the price. All 1.7s should have had them replaced by now regardless of mileage.

The Thunder is nice, especially in the dark grey and the Zetec S wheels seem to suit it well. FRPs are going for silly money now as well (less than £5000) so there'll be plenty of options available.

Good call on the Pumapeople website.

Thunder or Black special editions would be my choice.

FRP is a different animal altogether. You may be able to pick one up for £5k, but a good one will still cost north of that... and the running costs are a little higher.

[trickywoo]

Front wishbone bushes are a very poor design and need replacing almost yearly.

Rubber gromets (helpfuly mounted horizontaly) engine side of the firewall passenger side tend to leak and its a real hastle sorting it. Needs doing, even if you don't mind a wet footwell, as all the electrics are located within drip range.

Syncromesh on 2nd can be very weak.

Also make sure the heater works - the valves tend to fail on the control unit.

Edited by trickywoo on Monday 15th October 11:47

[Andrew Coates]

I have seen a 2002 Puma advertised as a limited edition Thunder model.
The seller says thats what it says on the log book but the car is metallic blue without leather. Can this still be a Thunder or not because I thought that all Thunders had leather and were either silver or grey. Any advice would be good

Thanks

[Podie]

Andrew Coates said:

I have seen a 2002 Puma advertised as a limited edition Thunder model.
The seller says thats what it says on the log book but the car is metallic blue without leather. Can this still be a Thunder or not because I thought that all Thunders had leather and were either silver or grey. Any advice would be good

Thanks

Definately NOT a Thunder.

2001MY car - 1000 made in Moondust Silver, and 1000 made in Magnum Grey.

All had black leather, air con, heated front screen and heated mirrors, along with 15 spoke (I think) alloy wheels. 6006CD (6 disc in dash CD changer), driver and passenger airbags.

A few were fitted with a 1.6 engine rather than a 1.7, but that was the only deviation.

Log book can say "Thunder" all it wants - it's not. Walk away, plenty of decent cars about.


ETA - they are 15 spoke alloys.

Edited by Podie on Wednesday 31st October 20:42

[Podie]

Join www.pumapeople.com (free) and have a look at their buyers guide...

http://www.pumapeople.com/index.php?showtopic=2002...

[RDE]

The rear arches will rust given time, which is happening to mine now (W reg). I believe if you buy a recent enough car, the arches can be fixed under a rust warranty by Ford (??).

[Podie]

RDE said:

The rear arches will rust given time, which is happening to mine now (W reg). I believe if you buy a recent enough car, the arches can be fixed under a rust warranty by Ford (??).

Last Puma's were 52 plated cars... might be able too, depends on the rustproof warranty I guess.

[FWDRacer]

Mines an R-98 and my arches are fine.... Get in early and waxoil them, irrespective of age. The w/arch liners (a hession type material) chaff over time and start the corrosion at the rear of the arch near the bumper interface.

I haven't got anything more to add other than buy one... Ignore the image naysayers and then take it down your favourite piece of B-road. It might only be a humble 1.7 but cross country it is a quick car. A FWD chassis you really can trust and it doesn't bite like many of the French hot hatch offereings. Just make sure the toe correction bushes are in good nick at the rear

Edited by FWDRacer on Thursday 8th November 10:41

[RDE]

FWDRacer said:

Mines an R-98 and my arches are fine.... Get in early and waxoil them, irrespective of age. The w/arch liners (a hession type material) chaff over time and start the corrosion at the rear of the arch near the bumper interface.

I haven't got anything more to add other than buy one... Ignore the image naysayers and then take it down your favourite piece of B-road. It might only be a humble 1.7 but cross country it is a quick car. A FWD chassis you really can trust and it doesn't bite like many of the French hot hatch offereings. Just make sure the toe correction bushes are in good nick at the rear

Edited by FWDRacer on Thursday 8th November 10:41

First I heard of the rusting was when I discovered the first bubble, i.e. too late. A real triumph of design by Ford there it seems . Hopefully waxoyling after a repair job will be of some use??

I can only echo your other comments to the OP. Even better is to drive a 1.25 Fiesta Mk3/4 for two weeks, which is a decent handling featherweight car, and then climb into a Puma. It looks similar from the driver's seat, but will feel like an absolute rocket in comparison. I love mine and while I may buy other cars, I can't see myself ever wanting to sell it.

[spectre17]

Have just stuck mine in a previous thread in readers cars. Great fun. I upgraded from a fiesta mk4 1.25.

[deevlash]

Podie said:

RDE said:

The rear arches will rust given time, which is happening to mine now (W reg). I believe if you buy a recent enough car, the arches can be fixed under a rust warranty by Ford (??).

Last Puma's were 52 plated cars... might be able too, depends on the rustproof warranty I guess.

theres a paintwork warranty that covers this although you need to have some kind of paint protection or something carried out at every service or something and hardly anyone has ever bothered with it. I think theres one case on pumapeople where a guy got ford to sort the rust but thats it. Ford seem to dig their heels in over it.
Mines a 51 plate and has a few bubbles appearing. The 1.7 engines can have problems with the cylinder linings.