Major Service Requirements
Discussion
Hi
I bought my current 03 Focus 2 litre from a Ford main dealer at one year old with FFSH, since owning the car it's had all its servicing done by the same dealer at great cost. Now the car is over 3 years old and out of warranty I’m tempted to take over the servicing myself as I intend to keep it for at least another 2 years. Could someone tell me what’s required for the 50k Major service. Due to a recent coil/cat failure these have been replaced along with the air filter and plugs.
My thinking was the following:
• Oil and Filter.
• Brake Fluid.
• Coolant flush and re-fill.
• General check of discs, pads, shock-absorbers etc.
What sort of effect is this likely to have come re-sale at 5 years old, am I better off with a good independent or should I stick to main dealer. Up until buying this car I’ve done all my own car repairs at home, the only reason I used the main dealer was to keep the warranty.
Regards
Chris
I bought my current 03 Focus 2 litre from a Ford main dealer at one year old with FFSH, since owning the car it's had all its servicing done by the same dealer at great cost. Now the car is over 3 years old and out of warranty I’m tempted to take over the servicing myself as I intend to keep it for at least another 2 years. Could someone tell me what’s required for the 50k Major service. Due to a recent coil/cat failure these have been replaced along with the air filter and plugs.
My thinking was the following:
• Oil and Filter.
• Brake Fluid.
• Coolant flush and re-fill.
• General check of discs, pads, shock-absorbers etc.
What sort of effect is this likely to have come re-sale at 5 years old, am I better off with a good independent or should I stick to main dealer. Up until buying this car I’ve done all my own car repairs at home, the only reason I used the main dealer was to keep the warranty.
Regards
Chris
major service you have'nt scrached the surface,
check all electics for operation-make notes of inoperative items as you go along,check all seat belts,fixtures and fittings inside car,with inspection lamp check underbonnet whats falling off,now remove spare wheel,now raise car to chest height and check wheel/hub play and spin wheels and listen to wheel bearing's-and also tyre splits etc,now raise car up over your head and check it over FULLY making notes of anything mechanical with play or splits in any rubber bits,dont drain oil yet,now lower car back to chest height and remove wheels and walk round brakes checking pads and disc wear(shoes if drums on rear,always remove and de dust using proper equipment and lube moving parts espesially handbrake pivot on brake shoe)ok you've now fixed the brake's?????,do not replace wheels yet,now rasie car and drain oil and remove filter,while these drain off check g/box oil level and do your tyre pressures INC SPARE,then refit sump plug with new and new oil filter,now go and change the fuel filter and be carfull its petrol :-),now id change the supentine belt at 50k cus they work hard and arnt expensive,(cam belt is it due???? a must check)now lower car with wheels still off and i use pressure bleeder so i can change fluid at chest height,always suck out old fluid in master cylinder and fill with new before comencing bleeding,ok now youve done that if it has alloy wheels i emery up the brake disc hubs them bloww off with airline,then mask off caliper with rubber glove and respray hubs with zink spray,when dry place clean duster over disc hub and spray calipers with gloss black,now spray brake pipes under wheel arches with oil,now copperslip wheel studs and replace wheels,now send car up and do a bolts check inc track rod end ajusters and paint ajusting threads with grease,now spray all other metal brake pipes and fuel line if there metal there usually plastic now,now lower car torque wheel nuts,now put the oil in and run it for 30 seconds more than enough,change the pollen plugs air and change coolant, check battery terminals and lubricate them with spray grease,bolts check round engine,if theres a engine breater system to clean DO IT,now dip the oil and top up as req and top up screen wash and with water it helps,remove your brake bleed stuff but you should have done that a while back,now lube door hinges WITH AN OIL CAN not spray grease and squirt some in the door catches and tail gate hinges and bonnet hinges,now check door catch screws on door and body,dont forget the door check sfrap bolts they always come loose,now smear a little gease on door check straps,plug in diag equipment check if theres any fault codes in there,refit spare wheel road test and listen for silly noises,back in workshop check exhaust emissions and report,fill in srvice book and brake fluid chang and coolant,i may have missed somthing but your not far away,thats how ive serviced now for 27 years in the trade on porsche 996/boxster ferrai maser merc bm morgan aston etc,
Dale.
check all electics for operation-make notes of inoperative items as you go along,check all seat belts,fixtures and fittings inside car,with inspection lamp check underbonnet whats falling off,now remove spare wheel,now raise car to chest height and check wheel/hub play and spin wheels and listen to wheel bearing's-and also tyre splits etc,now raise car up over your head and check it over FULLY making notes of anything mechanical with play or splits in any rubber bits,dont drain oil yet,now lower car back to chest height and remove wheels and walk round brakes checking pads and disc wear(shoes if drums on rear,always remove and de dust using proper equipment and lube moving parts espesially handbrake pivot on brake shoe)ok you've now fixed the brake's?????,do not replace wheels yet,now rasie car and drain oil and remove filter,while these drain off check g/box oil level and do your tyre pressures INC SPARE,then refit sump plug with new and new oil filter,now go and change the fuel filter and be carfull its petrol :-),now id change the supentine belt at 50k cus they work hard and arnt expensive,(cam belt is it due???? a must check)now lower car with wheels still off and i use pressure bleeder so i can change fluid at chest height,always suck out old fluid in master cylinder and fill with new before comencing bleeding,ok now youve done that if it has alloy wheels i emery up the brake disc hubs them bloww off with airline,then mask off caliper with rubber glove and respray hubs with zink spray,when dry place clean duster over disc hub and spray calipers with gloss black,now spray brake pipes under wheel arches with oil,now copperslip wheel studs and replace wheels,now send car up and do a bolts check inc track rod end ajusters and paint ajusting threads with grease,now spray all other metal brake pipes and fuel line if there metal there usually plastic now,now lower car torque wheel nuts,now put the oil in and run it for 30 seconds more than enough,change the pollen plugs air and change coolant, check battery terminals and lubricate them with spray grease,bolts check round engine,if theres a engine breater system to clean DO IT,now dip the oil and top up as req and top up screen wash and with water it helps,remove your brake bleed stuff but you should have done that a while back,now lube door hinges WITH AN OIL CAN not spray grease and squirt some in the door catches and tail gate hinges and bonnet hinges,now check door catch screws on door and body,dont forget the door check sfrap bolts they always come loose,now smear a little gease on door check straps,plug in diag equipment check if theres any fault codes in there,refit spare wheel road test and listen for silly noises,back in workshop check exhaust emissions and report,fill in srvice book and brake fluid chang and coolant,i may have missed somthing but your not far away,thats how ive serviced now for 27 years in the trade on porsche 996/boxster ferrai maser merc bm morgan aston etc,
Dale.
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