Fiesta drum brake removal
Discussion
Do not understand. Are you sure it is a stack of thin nuts and not just one ordinary nut with indentations on the corners? I can't think of any situation which would call for a stack of thin nuts. Also I would not expect to need to take the hub off in order to remove the drum, isn't it just slid over the wheel studs and clamped by the wheel? It's common for the drum to wear and form a lip which stops it sliding off the brake shoes, which might cause confusion, but I would be a bit surprised to find a radically unconventional setup on something as mundane as a Fiesta?
You don't undo the pack nut unless your replacing the wheel bearings.
The nut is torqued to +200lbft and removal will render the nut useless, it can also strip the threads on the stub shaft if it's undone too often.
The correct way to remove the drum/hub assembly is to remove the 4 bolts on the rear of the back plate, then the drum and stub will come off in 1 piece.
This also gives MORE room when replacing the shoes, the back plate is further secured to the twist beam axle with 2 x 3/16 pop rivets to locate and align it. Removal of the back plate is the ONLY way you'll get a socket on the wheel cylinder mounting bolts.
hope it helps.
The nut is torqued to +200lbft and removal will render the nut useless, it can also strip the threads on the stub shaft if it's undone too often.
The correct way to remove the drum/hub assembly is to remove the 4 bolts on the rear of the back plate, then the drum and stub will come off in 1 piece.
This also gives MORE room when replacing the shoes, the back plate is further secured to the twist beam axle with 2 x 3/16 pop rivets to locate and align it. Removal of the back plate is the ONLY way you'll get a socket on the wheel cylinder mounting bolts.
hope it helps.
Haynes manual says to "remove dust cap, then remove 'nut' to release drum". This was no different to my previous escort, so thought it wouldn't be a problem. In fact, had to prise open the claw washer, snapping off the claws in process. Then managed to remove 3 nuts individually ('bout 3mm thick each) but the 4th and last one is stuck fast.
Haynes might well say remove the dust cap and twiddle the nut, FORD MOTOR Co. say undo the 4 bolts on the back, and in fact thats been the way to do it since the intruction of the 89shape fiesta.
Escort is the same from 91on too.
Earlier build vehicles had a solid steel nut, but later vehicles have the pack nut you describe. If you were to remove the nut and disassemble it, you'll see that the thin individual nuts are not flat, thats how they lock onto the threads.
hope it helps
Escort is the same from 91on too.
Earlier build vehicles had a solid steel nut, but later vehicles have the pack nut you describe. If you were to remove the nut and disassemble it, you'll see that the thin individual nuts are not flat, thats how they lock onto the threads.
hope it helps
No problems m8
drop me a mail if you need to know anything.
The rear wheel bearings are of the set right type, meaning that the inner races of each bearing touch each other and the correct level of torque preloads the bearing itself. Thats why it's such a high torque.
I should have also mentioned that the dustcap should be replaced if you've distorted it getting it off, as water will get into the bearings and kill them.
drop me a mail if you need to know anything.
The rear wheel bearings are of the set right type, meaning that the inner races of each bearing touch each other and the correct level of torque preloads the bearing itself. Thats why it's such a high torque.
I should have also mentioned that the dustcap should be replaced if you've distorted it getting it off, as water will get into the bearings and kill them.
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