1.8 tdci cam belt change

[Kit352]

So my 56 plate cmax is due for a cam belt change. I have called around to get some quotes and they all seem to be around 300 which is fine. Now I started to look into doing this myself as all the garages I contacted are either booked for a while or not open Saturdays which is something I need. I've done belts before but never on these motors or on a diesel, not that it matters much. I see all these guides on locking the cams and pulling a good amount of the engine apart to swap belts so I can better understand the pricing. Now to me it seems that the belt swap should be easy as can be once I read the steps a few times. Am I right in thinking that you could actually just remove a bit from the belt side of the motor to gain access to the work area, paint mark the cam sprocket(crank one wont move on it's own.) and remove the tensioner and slide the new belt on? Surely I could do that myself. I figure it's about a 30 minute job unless I am missing something. Looks like the biggest part of the job is locking the cams but that seems a bit daft if you can paint mark them.

[Oscar011]

Hi Kit352,

Only just seen this or I would of replied earlier.

Everything you have mentioned can be done your way. Takes about 1h the tipex way or up to 4/5 hours locking off the cams and flywheel etc. Long way is the safest but alot of parts needs removing like alternator/starter motor/rocker cover and a few pipes and also the cam sprocket gets loosened etc.

You can't really go wrong the tipex way as long as you know what you are doing. Seems like from your post you've tackled similar jobs before. If you're confident you'll be fine.

If you need any help I'll be more than happy to respond to any questions

Edited by Oscar011 on Monday 28th October 10:00

[Kit352]

Thanks.

Are you aware of a simple guide on how to do it? Right now it looks like I need to support the motor by the oil pan, remove the drivers motor mount and then stud, remove the turbo pipe running across the timing guard, remove the guard and then mark the cam and head for alignment then remove the adjuster and belt. Installation is reverse.

[Oscar011]

Kit352 said:

Thanks.

Are you aware of a simple guide on how to do it? Right now it looks like I need to support the motor by the oil pan, remove the drivers motor mount and then stud, remove the turbo pipe running across the timing guard, remove the guard and then mark the cam and head for alignment then remove the adjuster and belt. Installation is reverse.

Hi Kit352,

You seem pretty spot on. The last one I did was a transit connect. Pretty much the same layout under the bonnet as yours minus a few little things.

Rough guide below.

The 1st thing I did was jack up the drivers wheel and place a jack under the sill (high enough for the drivers wheel to be off the ground.

I then placed my jack under the sump with a block of wood to spread the load.

Removed the 10mm bolt on the coolant header tank and moved it to the side for more access.

Removed the engine mount and studs.

Removed timing cover.

(My preference) Put in gear 5 and rotated the drivers wheel until the u shaped notch lined up at 12 o’clock and tipex the top cam on the u shaped up. And marked the tooth on the oil pump sprocket.

Removed tensioner etc

Then fit timing belt kit

If oil pump sprocket moves I rotated the wheel.

If the to cam moved just get a socket and lightly rotate.

I wouldn’t of thought it would move but that would help you out if it does.