2004 FORD FIESTA Help....please

2004 FORD FIESTA Help....please

Author
Discussion

Pt

Original Poster:

2 posts

93 months

Thursday 9th February 2017
quotequote all
Hi Guy's I am new hear I need some ideas and advice please.

2004 FORD FIESTA Duratec 16V 1.25 ZETEC SE

I am trying to sort out the wife's car we broke down the other day top radiator hose blew could the AA out and he said there was a lot of pressure in the system. So I have replaced the top hose and the thermostat the problem's are engine runs at temp top hose warm bottom hose cold the matrix pipe on the right hot left cold. Radiator cold as well but fan will kick in I have flushed the matrix and the rad bit still have loads of pressure in the system. I have also checked the water pump as well all OK. I suspect an air lock some ware I have been trying to see if I could find a heater valve but it doesn't seam to have one any one got any ideas?

Thank for any help

LuS1fer

41,722 posts

252 months

Tuesday 14th February 2017
quotequote all
1. Is the thermostat in the right way round.
2. Run the engine at idle with the heater controls open and the rad cap off until hot. Pointing uphill if possible. Pump the top hose with your hand to expel air but DON'T put your face near the open rad or it will scald your face. Rev gently to circulate the coolant until no more air bubbles out.

meb90

396 posts

100 months

Tuesday 14th February 2017
quotequote all
You sure it isn't the head gasket? Not wanting to put the willies in you.

I've got a 1.4 Fiesta - whenever I've done anything to the coolant system my method for bleeding (Haynes method) has been:
- Fill up the header tank until full.
- Start the engine
- Run at 3,000rpm for 20 minutes. Heater on full heat and fan.
- Turn off and check level

Never had an issue depending on up/down hill.

HazzaCrawf

142 posts

133 months

Tuesday 14th February 2017
quotequote all
Any bleeder screws at all to speak of?smile

Dogwatch

6,273 posts

229 months

Tuesday 14th February 2017
quotequote all
Assuming no-one has been at the cooling system prior to the burst, is the thermostat stuck closed? They are supposed to fail 'open' but....

Not sure why you are looking for a heater valve, it's in the heater. Heater control to cold = valve closed. Heater control to hot = valve open, hence the advice from the two posters above.

Might be an idea to disconnect the bottom hose and see what 12 years of crud looks like when it drains out.

LuS1fer

41,722 posts

252 months

Tuesday 14th February 2017
quotequote all
Yes, a reverse hose into the bottom of the rad will also shift accumulated rust but don't forget new anti-freeze.