XR2 racer - water leak, core plug - advice needed
Discussion
Can you get the core plug out and refix it with some green hermatite, that may work if it is just leaking round the edge.
Alternatively if it isn't too bad, put a Barrs leak solution in the rad. Follow the instructions on the bottle. I had this problem with a Jaguar engine and it worked OK.
>> Edited by falcemob on Sunday 13th March 14:52
Alternatively if it isn't too bad, put a Barrs leak solution in the rad. Follow the instructions on the bottle. I had this problem with a Jaguar engine and it worked OK.
>> Edited by falcemob on Sunday 13th March 14:52
dank said:
Our lovely new blue printed engine in ur XR2 seems to have a slight water leak from one of the core plugs? Is this going to be a problem, what can we do to fix this? I was told that there is some additive you can add to the water which can sort this out, is this true?
So one of the NEW core plugs is leaking,this is odd as they never seem to leak when new ones are fitted,
core plugs have to be removed to rebuild an engine because you need to pressure wash out the water jacket of the crap people add to cooling systems to stop leaks,new plug apply a little locktite and tap it in with tool or socket if you havent the tool.
Dank, your not having much luck with this are you.
If the coreplug has been replaced i'd suggest it's either the wrong size, there are several sizes of plugs and it might not be as tight a fit as it should, or it's not had any sealing compound smeared on it.
Antifreeze will eventually fur up and plug the gap, or rad weld can be added if you don't want to pull it apart.
If it's one of the old ones, rip it out and bang in a new one anyway
If the coreplug has been replaced i'd suggest it's either the wrong size, there are several sizes of plugs and it might not be as tight a fit as it should, or it's not had any sealing compound smeared on it.
Antifreeze will eventually fur up and plug the gap, or rad weld can be added if you don't want to pull it apart.
If it's one of the old ones, rip it out and bang in a new one anyway
Yes the car does seem to have had a few teething troubles so to speak! We took it for a shake down at brands a few weeks back and have to say we were very impressed with the engine. The gear box is now very positive and direct, really is a huge improvement and worth the time and money spent on it.
But there are these little problems that are arising. A mechanic said not to worry too much about the core plug as a frost is unlikely now. But we have bought some spares incase we need to replace the leaking one. We have also got lots of anti freeze in the water, so its a bit of a mystery as to why this plug is leaking?
Would you think its something we should just fix now and not wait for it to break? Or is it not really worth worrying about. Our first race of the season is this coming Easter weekend, so ideally I would like the car to be 100% on form and to have 100% confidence in the car too.
But there are these little problems that are arising. A mechanic said not to worry too much about the core plug as a frost is unlikely now. But we have bought some spares incase we need to replace the leaking one. We have also got lots of anti freeze in the water, so its a bit of a mystery as to why this plug is leaking?
Would you think its something we should just fix now and not wait for it to break? Or is it not really worth worrying about. Our first race of the season is this coming Easter weekend, so ideally I would like the car to be 100% on form and to have 100% confidence in the car too.
I'd be sure to get it fixed as soon as possible, high rpm's and loads during the race can put extra stresses on the cooling system, if the expansion tank cap is a little on the poor side, the leaking plug might not stand the strain and burst. 
Which plug is leaking?
All the plugs along the sides of the block are easily changed without major work.
Which plug is leaking?
All the plugs along the sides of the block are easily changed without major work.
When you say front of the enging block, which front are we looking at?
Exhaust manifold side?
They can all be replaced without taking the engine out,
At most you'll need remove the starter and the exhaust downpipe, in order to get a swing with the hammer.
Drain the water from the car, and raise it so you can work under it, remove any bits you need to in order to get at it.
removal of the plug can be done in a number of ways, all involve a little brute force
I tend to use one of 3 methods to get them out depending on where they are.
1. use a punch at the edge of the plug, tap it until the plug turns in the block and then lever it out with a big screwdriver.
2. whack a big dent in the middle of it to collapse it (take care not to knock it inside the block)
3. drill it and screw in a self tapping screw and use it as a point to lever the plug out. (make sure the drill and screw don't go too far though )
Once the plug is out, clean and dry the hole in the block, smear some sealer on the rear of the new plug, and using a suitable drift (i favor a socket tbh, get one thats a close fit inside the plug) and knock the new plug in squarely, it'll be a bit of a pig to start off and will try and cock over in the hole. But small gentle taps will see it in ok, when it's in the same depth as the others, grab a brew and start the build up.
I think the labour time for the plugs on the front of the block was about an hour.........
start the clock!
Exhaust manifold side?
They can all be replaced without taking the engine out,
At most you'll need remove the starter and the exhaust downpipe, in order to get a swing with the hammer.
Drain the water from the car, and raise it so you can work under it, remove any bits you need to in order to get at it.
removal of the plug can be done in a number of ways, all involve a little brute force
I tend to use one of 3 methods to get them out depending on where they are.
1. use a punch at the edge of the plug, tap it until the plug turns in the block and then lever it out with a big screwdriver.
2. whack a big dent in the middle of it to collapse it (take care not to knock it inside the block)
3. drill it and screw in a self tapping screw and use it as a point to lever the plug out. (make sure the drill and screw don't go too far though
) Once the plug is out, clean and dry the hole in the block, smear some sealer on the rear of the new plug, and using a suitable drift (i favor a socket tbh, get one thats a close fit inside the plug) and knock the new plug in squarely, it'll be a bit of a pig to start off and will try and cock over in the hole. But small gentle taps will see it in ok, when it's in the same depth as the others, grab a brew and start the build up.
I think the labour time for the plugs on the front of the block was about an hour.........
start the clock!
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