Focus ST (2006) Oil Filter Housing Unit Blown Diaphram
Discussion
Afternoon chaps, haven't posted here for a while! My 2006 Focus ST 2 has a blown oil filter diaphragm. The dreaded fault! I've sourced the part direct from Ford for £175 and want to have a go at replacing it myself. Does anyone have any experience of fitting these please? Is it straight forward enough? Is there anything to watch out for / be weary of? Thanks in anticipation of your responses. Tom
Fairly straight forward & if you have experience of working on cars you won't have any issues
One hint though is to drain the oil & slacken off the oil filter housing (as if your changing the filter) & leave it a few mins before doing anything else as it will massively reduce the amount of mess it will make
One hint though is to drain the oil & slacken off the oil filter housing (as if your changing the filter) & leave it a few mins before doing anything else as it will massively reduce the amount of mess it will make
Thanks for the pointers chaps. I did hear that Volvo might be cheaper but my local Volvo parts supplier was £10 more for some reason!?! I'll do an oil change at the same time then. I have read that prolonged use of the vehicle with this problem ongoing can cause cam seals to go too. I havent done too many miles since noticing it but would this be an easy diagnosis if it is the case? Picking the part up later today so I'll keep you updated. Thanks again
Cam seal should be ok if cars still running. Would recommend not driving the car if at all possible then.
Presuming car is standard then you'll need to take trim off slam panel, air filter housing and it will be tight in front of you. You may need to drop the radiator to help get the air box out.
Presuming car is standard then you'll need to take trim off slam panel, air filter housing and it will be tight in front of you. You may need to drop the radiator to help get the air box out.
Cam seal should be ok if cars still running. Would recommend not driving the car if at all possible then.
Presuming car is standard then you'll need to take trim off slam panel, air filter housing and it will be tight in front of you. You may need to drop the radiator to help get the air box out.
Presuming car is standard then you'll need to take trim off slam panel, air filter housing and it will be tight in front of you. You may need to drop the radiator to help get the air box out.
Thanks for the pointers chaps. I'll be doing the job tomorrow. I did hear I may need the connecting pipe as well in case this splits so got that on standby too. Do you know of any diagrams/step by step guides knocking about? I'm fairly sure I know what to do but never hurts to be able to resort to a plan B!
zegermans said:
Thanks for the pointers chaps. I'll be doing the job tomorrow. I did hear I may need the connecting pipe as well in case this splits so got that on standby too. Do you know of any diagrams/step by step guides knocking about? I'm fairly sure I know what to do but never hurts to be able to resort to a plan B!
I think theres one on FocusSTOC, but you may have to be a member to see it. Jack the car up and remove the plastic under tray.
Then remove the air filter box.
Then disconnect the wire connection on the right and plastic pipe on the left side of the unit(normally a jubilee clip,this is the plastic pipe that often breaks)
Next there is a bolt that holds the dipstick tube.undoe to allow the tube to be pushed out of the way a bit.
There are 4 bolts holding it on.1 at the top by the water hose and 3 underneath access from under the car.
Once all undone gently push the unit down to allow the last pipe to slide off the unit.
After that it should be free to remove and refit.
Then remove the air filter box.
Then disconnect the wire connection on the right and plastic pipe on the left side of the unit(normally a jubilee clip,this is the plastic pipe that often breaks)
Next there is a bolt that holds the dipstick tube.undoe to allow the tube to be pushed out of the way a bit.
There are 4 bolts holding it on.1 at the top by the water hose and 3 underneath access from under the car.
Once all undone gently push the unit down to allow the last pipe to slide off the unit.
After that it should be free to remove and refit.
Inputs much appreciated chaps replaced the housing on Saturday morning. Took me about 2 and a half hours in the end but did an oil change and had to replace the connecting hose too, as snapped straight away. Fiddly engine to work on with my ham fisted, sausage fingers but got there in the end! She's purring like a beaut once more. All that work has got me thinking though... Time to chip and exhaust!?! May have to open a new topic
replaced the housing on Saturday morning. Took me about 2 and a half hours in the end but did an oil change and had to replace the connecting hose too, as snapped straight away. Fiddly engine to work on with my ham fisted, sausage fingers but got there in the end! She's purring like a beaut once more. All that work has got me thinking though... Time to chip and exhaust!?! May have to open a new topic zegermans said:
Inputs much appreciated chaps replaced the housing on Saturday morning. Took me about 2 and a half hours in the end but did an oil change and had to replace the connecting hose too, as snapped straight away. Fiddly engine to work on with my ham fisted, sausage fingers but got there in the end! She's purring like a beaut once more. All that work has got me thinking though... Time to chip and exhaust!?! May have to open a new topic
That bits easy. replaced the housing on Saturday morning. Took me about 2 and a half hours in the end but did an oil change and had to replace the connecting hose too, as snapped straight away. Fiddly engine to work on with my ham fisted, sausage fingers but got there in the end! She's purring like a beaut once more. All that work has got me thinking though... Time to chip and exhaust!?! May have to open a new topic Phone Collins Performance.
Auto Specialist induction kit and intercooler, mongoose turbo back exhaust, stage 2 map = 300hp.
Utterly transforms the car.
I'm not sure if anyone else is still having this problem, but my 2010 st-3 has just gone, I've found the diaphragm separate from www.vanos-bmw.com part number 1511222 around £20 including postage.
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
Hey C17XEY!
What did you end up doing eventually? Did you replace the diaphragm only?
My 2008 Volvo S40 2.4i has the same problem, and I can't decide whether to order the diaphragm from this Russian seller to save money (and then wait... Which I probably could as I have another car) or buy the complete housing from Amazon ($160 is the lowest I could find for the genuine Volvo part).
Would love to hear about your experience with the seller and the product.
What do you other guys recommend, cheaping out and replacing this aftermarket diaphragm or tree whole oil trap
What did you end up doing eventually? Did you replace the diaphragm only?
My 2008 Volvo S40 2.4i has the same problem, and I can't decide whether to order the diaphragm from this Russian seller to save money (and then wait... Which I probably could as I have another car) or buy the complete housing from Amazon ($160 is the lowest I could find for the genuine Volvo part).
Would love to hear about your experience with the seller and the product.
What do you other guys recommend, cheaping out and replacing this aftermarket diaphragm or tree whole oil trap
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