Mondeo 2ltr turbo Diesel continuous problems
Discussion
We bought a 2007 mondeo 2 ltr Diesel turbo in Sept 2012 from what we thought was a big reputable company how wrong were we. First of all the EGR went that cost us over £200 then the turbo which was another £300 then the alternator which is another £250 and after all this the car still keeps losing power and the turbo light comes on at the same time. Garage have said it is definately not the turbo as it is running fine. They have now said it may be the fuel pump or injectors a fuel pump is £1200 we are very upset by this and wonder if anyone out there has had the same problems and what it turned out to be. The light does not come on all the time and has only totally cut out on us twice which it re starts straight away. We are towing our caravan next week and are not looking forward to the journey. Any advice would be much appreciated. I have seen a few posts that have said its the camshaft sensor any one think it might be that with us?
if you look out the back of the car when you accelerate hard does it smoke a lot especially when it comes on boost?
Reason i ask is loss of power and black smoke isusually and indicator of a split boost pipe on these - the pipe that usually splits is the one from the egr to the intercooler
if you open the bonnet, remove the engine cover and then look at the front left hand side of the engine where the EGR is you should see a tick black pipe snaking down between the engine and radiator - run your hand down this pipe to check for splits
edit - this article gives you an idea of where to look - the pipe comes off the EGR valve and goes down - http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=EGR_Valv...
Reason i ask is loss of power and black smoke isusually and indicator of a split boost pipe on these - the pipe that usually splits is the one from the egr to the intercooler
if you open the bonnet, remove the engine cover and then look at the front left hand side of the engine where the EGR is you should see a tick black pipe snaking down between the engine and radiator - run your hand down this pipe to check for splits
edit - this article gives you an idea of where to look - the pipe comes off the EGR valve and goes down - http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=EGR_Valv...
Edited by samuelellis on Friday 26th July 14:51
jennyj45 said:
We bought a 2007 mondeo 2 ltr Diesel turbo in Sept 2012 from what we thought was a big reputable company how wrong were we. First of all the EGR went that cost us over £200 then the turbo which was another £300 then the alternator which is another £250 and after all this the car still keeps losing power and the turbo light comes on at the same time. Garage have said it is definately not the turbo as it is running fine. They have now said it may be the fuel pump or injectors a fuel pump is £1200 we are very upset by this and wonder if anyone out there has had the same problems and what it turned out to be. The light does not come on all the time and has only totally cut out on us twice which it re starts straight away. We are towing our caravan next week and are not looking forward to the journey. Any advice would be much appreciated. I have seen a few posts that have said its the camshaft sensor any one think it might be that with us?
I've had three of the and it and same happened to all of them. Only way to find out is to get an ECU reader to find out injector correlations, fuel delivery, any none light issues like a MAP sensor issue problem resorting in boost loss.Firstly, you did not get a new turbo for 300 quid, maybe they decoked the vanes on it, but a basic turbo with electric actuator is c 600 quid min.
When you say the 'turbo light' comes on, I think you mean the glow plug light starts to flash and the cars loses power. This is limp mode. Most common reason for this to much leak off from the injectors. It's probably been your issue all along, but don't panic. Firstly, yes the pump may be goosed, but it's rare and usually the result of misfeulling or people running the car on kero or heating oil, or bio diesel. So if the car has been used by a normal sort of person, ie not a wide boy it is maybe fine.
Then, assuming it is injectors, you can do two things. Firstly you could get them leak off tested to identify which injector is knackered or you could swap them all or get the ones you have rebuilt.
First thing is to get a diagnostic cable from eBay (super M cable or formidable cable) will get you the cable and diagnostic software for 15 quid. Hook up a laptop a d read the codes, it's most likely a well known code to so with insufficient fuel pressure ie too much pressure leaking off (back to the filter).
Does the car go into limp mode when you boot it in third maybe, ie under load? If so, it's almost certainly injectors.
For 99 quid a piece mondeospares in stoke will rebuild your injectors meaning they won't have to be recoded to go back in. A decent mechanic would charge maybe 100 quid to remove them send them away and refit them, the 99 quid includes postage. So for 500 notes it could be sorted. If you take it to a specialist, they could leak test them on the car to identify the faulty units, but it would cost you say 100 quid anyway.
To confirm the fuel pump is ok, get a local garage to stick a brand new Bosch or Delphi filter in. 12 quid off the bay, you can fit it yourself easily with minimal tools and skill. This will do two things, 1 maybe cure your issue, sown filters are crap and restric the diesel flow, and a new decent filter may fix it. If not, run the car 500 miles or so, then get the filter removed and replaced, and have someone snip the top off it to see what's in the gauze. If there is metal chunks, it's the pump. If it is clean of metal swarm, it's the injectors. This is assuming you get a p1051 code from the diagnostics meaning low fuel pressure or flow.
It's not the end of the world. But you need a decent trustworthy garage to help you sort it. If iris injectors, the car will be a different beast when sorted and your mpg will go up a fair chunk too helping recover the cost.
Try mondeo.org for a site that has loads of info on this sort of problem.
If it were me, I'd stick a Bosch or Delphi fuel filter on it now. Even if you have a new filter on, if it is not Delphi or Bosch junk it.
Then if not fixed, get a diagnostic cable from eBay. Run that and then google the codes you get (DTC s ). Then you'll know where to start to sort it. But if it is flashing glow plug light, coupld to loss of power and then if you keep booting it, the engine management light comes on (yellow light on the rha top with an engine pic on it!) then my money's on injectors which doesn't need to be too pricey.
When you say the 'turbo light' comes on, I think you mean the glow plug light starts to flash and the cars loses power. This is limp mode. Most common reason for this to much leak off from the injectors. It's probably been your issue all along, but don't panic. Firstly, yes the pump may be goosed, but it's rare and usually the result of misfeulling or people running the car on kero or heating oil, or bio diesel. So if the car has been used by a normal sort of person, ie not a wide boy it is maybe fine.
Then, assuming it is injectors, you can do two things. Firstly you could get them leak off tested to identify which injector is knackered or you could swap them all or get the ones you have rebuilt.
First thing is to get a diagnostic cable from eBay (super M cable or formidable cable) will get you the cable and diagnostic software for 15 quid. Hook up a laptop a d read the codes, it's most likely a well known code to so with insufficient fuel pressure ie too much pressure leaking off (back to the filter).
Does the car go into limp mode when you boot it in third maybe, ie under load? If so, it's almost certainly injectors.
For 99 quid a piece mondeospares in stoke will rebuild your injectors meaning they won't have to be recoded to go back in. A decent mechanic would charge maybe 100 quid to remove them send them away and refit them, the 99 quid includes postage. So for 500 notes it could be sorted. If you take it to a specialist, they could leak test them on the car to identify the faulty units, but it would cost you say 100 quid anyway.
To confirm the fuel pump is ok, get a local garage to stick a brand new Bosch or Delphi filter in. 12 quid off the bay, you can fit it yourself easily with minimal tools and skill. This will do two things, 1 maybe cure your issue, sown filters are crap and restric the diesel flow, and a new decent filter may fix it. If not, run the car 500 miles or so, then get the filter removed and replaced, and have someone snip the top off it to see what's in the gauze. If there is metal chunks, it's the pump. If it is clean of metal swarm, it's the injectors. This is assuming you get a p1051 code from the diagnostics meaning low fuel pressure or flow.
It's not the end of the world. But you need a decent trustworthy garage to help you sort it. If iris injectors, the car will be a different beast when sorted and your mpg will go up a fair chunk too helping recover the cost.
Try mondeo.org for a site that has loads of info on this sort of problem.
If it were me, I'd stick a Bosch or Delphi fuel filter on it now. Even if you have a new filter on, if it is not Delphi or Bosch junk it.
Then if not fixed, get a diagnostic cable from eBay. Run that and then google the codes you get (DTC s ). Then you'll know where to start to sort it. But if it is flashing glow plug light, coupld to loss of power and then if you keep booting it, the engine management light comes on (yellow light on the rha top with an engine pic on it!) then my money's on injectors which doesn't need to be too pricey.
jennyj45 said:
We bought a 2007 mondeo 2 ltr Diesel turbo in Sept 2012 from what we thought was a big reputable company how wrong were we. First of all the EGR went that cost us over £200 then the turbo which was another £300 then the alternator which is another £250 and after all this the car still keeps losing power and the turbo light comes on at the same time. Garage have said it is definately not the turbo as it is running fine. They have now said it may be the fuel pump or injectors a fuel pump is £1200 we are very upset by this and wonder if anyone out there has had the same problems and what it turned out to be. The light does not come on all the time and has only totally cut out on us twice which it re starts straight away. We are towing our caravan next week and are not looking forward to the journey. Any advice would be much appreciated. I have seen a few posts that have said its the camshaft sensor any one think it might be that with us?
Youll need to get the fault codes read.Any friendly PH'ers nearby with a code reader?
s3fella said:
Firstly, you did not get a new turbo for 300 quid, maybe they decoked the vanes on it, but a basic turbo with electric actuator is c 600 quid min.
When you say the 'turbo light' comes on, I think you mean the glow plug light starts to flash and the cars loses power. This is limp mode. Most common reason for this to much leak off from the injectors. It's probably been your issue all along, but don't panic. Firstly, yes the pump may be goosed, but it's rare and usually the result of misfeulling or people running the car on kero or heating oil, or bio diesel. So if the car has been used by a normal sort of person, ie not a wide boy it is maybe fine.
Then, assuming it is injectors, you can do two things. Firstly you could get them leak off tested to identify which injector is knackered or you could swap them all or get the ones you have rebuilt.
First thing is to get a diagnostic cable from eBay (super M cable or formidable cable) will get you the cable and diagnostic software for 15 quid. Hook up a laptop a d read the codes, it's most likely a well known code to so with insufficient fuel pressure ie too much pressure leaking off (back to the filter).
Does the car go into limp mode when you boot it in third maybe, ie under load? If so, it's almost certainly injectors.
For 99 quid a piece mondeospares in stoke will rebuild your injectors meaning they won't have to be recoded to go back in. A decent mechanic would charge maybe 100 quid to remove them send them away and refit them, the 99 quid includes postage. So for 500 notes it could be sorted. If you take it to a specialist, they could leak test them on the car to identify the faulty units, but it would cost you say 100 quid anyway.
To confirm the fuel pump is ok, get a local garage to stick a brand new Bosch or Delphi filter in. 12 quid off the bay, you can fit it yourself easily with minimal tools and skill. This will do two things, 1 maybe cure your issue, sown filters are crap and restric the diesel flow, and a new decent filter may fix it. If not, run the car 500 miles or so, then get the filter removed and replaced, and have someone snip the top off it to see what's in the gauze. If there is metal chunks, it's the pump. If it is clean of metal swarm, it's the injectors. This is assuming you get a p1051 code from the diagnostics meaning low fuel pressure or flow.
It's not the end of the world. But you need a decent trustworthy garage to help you sort it. If iris injectors, the car will be a different beast when sorted and your mpg will go up a fair chunk too helping recover the cost.
Try mondeo.org for a site that has loads of info on this sort of problem.
If it were me, I'd stick a Bosch or Delphi fuel filter on it now. Even if you have a new filter on, if it is not Delphi or Bosch junk it.
Then if not fixed, get a diagnostic cable from eBay. Run that and then google the codes you get (DTC s ). Then you'll know where to start to sort it. But if it is flashing glow plug light, coupld to loss of power and then if you keep booting it, the engine management light comes on (yellow light on the rha top with an engine pic on it!) then my money's on injectors which doesn't need to be too pricey.
Thanks for info it was not a new turbo the garage said u can't get a new one u have to have the one on there rebuilt so it was sent away and rebuilt. Our only problem now is we can't get it sorted before we go away as ours is only going into limp mode and not cutting out do you think it will be ok to go away in and tow caravan. When turbo goes into limp mode we just pull over and stop car then re start and it re sets itself it has not gone into limp mode for 2 days so is not all the time its been a nightmare we were recommended this car for towing which it is great at but it's had so much wrong with it.When you say the 'turbo light' comes on, I think you mean the glow plug light starts to flash and the cars loses power. This is limp mode. Most common reason for this to much leak off from the injectors. It's probably been your issue all along, but don't panic. Firstly, yes the pump may be goosed, but it's rare and usually the result of misfeulling or people running the car on kero or heating oil, or bio diesel. So if the car has been used by a normal sort of person, ie not a wide boy it is maybe fine.
Then, assuming it is injectors, you can do two things. Firstly you could get them leak off tested to identify which injector is knackered or you could swap them all or get the ones you have rebuilt.
First thing is to get a diagnostic cable from eBay (super M cable or formidable cable) will get you the cable and diagnostic software for 15 quid. Hook up a laptop a d read the codes, it's most likely a well known code to so with insufficient fuel pressure ie too much pressure leaking off (back to the filter).
Does the car go into limp mode when you boot it in third maybe, ie under load? If so, it's almost certainly injectors.
For 99 quid a piece mondeospares in stoke will rebuild your injectors meaning they won't have to be recoded to go back in. A decent mechanic would charge maybe 100 quid to remove them send them away and refit them, the 99 quid includes postage. So for 500 notes it could be sorted. If you take it to a specialist, they could leak test them on the car to identify the faulty units, but it would cost you say 100 quid anyway.
To confirm the fuel pump is ok, get a local garage to stick a brand new Bosch or Delphi filter in. 12 quid off the bay, you can fit it yourself easily with minimal tools and skill. This will do two things, 1 maybe cure your issue, sown filters are crap and restric the diesel flow, and a new decent filter may fix it. If not, run the car 500 miles or so, then get the filter removed and replaced, and have someone snip the top off it to see what's in the gauze. If there is metal chunks, it's the pump. If it is clean of metal swarm, it's the injectors. This is assuming you get a p1051 code from the diagnostics meaning low fuel pressure or flow.
It's not the end of the world. But you need a decent trustworthy garage to help you sort it. If iris injectors, the car will be a different beast when sorted and your mpg will go up a fair chunk too helping recover the cost.
Try mondeo.org for a site that has loads of info on this sort of problem.
If it were me, I'd stick a Bosch or Delphi fuel filter on it now. Even if you have a new filter on, if it is not Delphi or Bosch junk it.
Then if not fixed, get a diagnostic cable from eBay. Run that and then google the codes you get (DTC s ). Then you'll know where to start to sort it. But if it is flashing glow plug light, coupld to loss of power and then if you keep booting it, the engine management light comes on (yellow light on the rha top with an engine pic on it!) then my money's on injectors which doesn't need to be too pricey.
littleredrooster said:
What diagnostic codes is it showing?
RobCrezz said:
Youll need to get the fault codes read.
Any friendly PH'ers nearby with a code reader?
^ ^ This ^ ^ Any friendly PH'ers nearby with a code reader?
You need to find out what's wrong with it before you can apply a fix.
I would not dream of towing a 'van with it in that condition. It can only end badly. Imagine limp mode, 30mph, lane one of a motorway or busy dual-carriageway surrounded by blind lunatics doing 80+...
I used to be a jag tech, and the Diesel engines are the same as in the x-type. Egr's are common, but you've had this done. I have changed quite a few high pressure pumps on these, it is not uncommon, but first thing for any fuel pressure related faults is change the filter. I've lost count of how many Diesel engine cars this has cured faults on, people are all to keen to go in deep without doing the basics, for the price of a filter you could cure the faults. Not saying its guaranteed but got to be worth a try. A lot cheaper than a pump!
If injectors are faulty you'll often get a light misfire, and a bit of diesel knock at certain revs/loads, easiest way to diagnose is a leak off check, or check the injector compensations using a diag tool with real-time. Obviously these would need to be carried out by a qualified person if you don't have the tools.
If injectors are faulty you'll often get a light misfire, and a bit of diesel knock at certain revs/loads, easiest way to diagnose is a leak off check, or check the injector compensations using a diag tool with real-time. Obviously these would need to be carried out by a qualified person if you don't have the tools.
s3fella said:
For 99 quid a piece mondeospares in stoke will rebuild your injectors meaning they won't have to be recoded to go back in.
This came up on another forum and a Delphi specialist posted that if these injectors are 're-conditioned' properly,they are issued with new injector codes (correction factors). Working in Ford authorised repair dealerships, only used gen. Ford injectors personally.
Edited by GVK on Saturday 27th July 18:34
Benj1984 said:
I used to be a jag tech, and the Diesel engines are the same as in the x-type. Egr's are common, but you've had this done. I have changed quite a few high pressure pumps on these, it is not uncommon, but first thing for any fuel pressure related faults is change the filter. I've lost count of how many Diesel engine cars this has cured faults on, people are all to keen to go in deep without doing the basics, for the price of a filter you could cure the faults. Not saying its guaranteed but got to be worth a try. A lot cheaper than a pump!
Agreed, I've worked on these on and off since they were introduced and likewise have cured quite a few with just a filter change where a fuel pressure fault code has been stored. Edited by GVK on Saturday 27th July 18:38
Ref cam sensor, these can give problems, but only usually on the earlier ones, Ford modified the sensor back in 2005/6ish from memory. Modified sensor is Grey, original sensor Black.
As others have posted, need to get the thing on diagnostics and know what codes are stored before guessing and throwing parts at it.
As others have posted, need to get the thing on diagnostics and know what codes are stored before guessing and throwing parts at it.
http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Fuel_Fil...
Doesn't look too onerous - but the fuel filter would have had to have been disturbed to get to the alternator by the looks of it. Perhaps it wasn't refitted properly?
Either way, get the fault codes read, On Board Diagnostics are there to take the guesswork out, it'd be silly to not bother for the cost of them. Might be worth going for one of the bluetooth/phone app ones, as they're very user friendly.
Doesn't look too onerous - but the fuel filter would have had to have been disturbed to get to the alternator by the looks of it. Perhaps it wasn't refitted properly?
Either way, get the fault codes read, On Board Diagnostics are there to take the guesswork out, it'd be silly to not bother for the cost of them. Might be worth going for one of the bluetooth/phone app ones, as they're very user friendly.
Benj1984 said:
I used to be a jag tech, and the Diesel engines are the same as in the x-type. Egr's are common, but you've had this done. I have changed quite a few high pressure pumps on these, it is not uncommon, but first thing for any fuel pressure related faults is change the filter. I've lost count of how many Diesel engine cars this has cured faults on, people are all to keen to go in deep without doing the basics, for the price of a filter you could cure the faults. Not saying its guaranteed but got to be worth a try. A lot cheaper than a pump!
If injectors are faulty you'll often get a light misfire, and a bit of diesel knock at certain revs/loads, easiest way to diagnose is a leak off check, or check the injector compensations using a diag tool with real-time. Obviously these would need to be carried out by a qualified person if you don't have the tools.
Thanks Benji but the guy at garage said he changed filter even though the one he took off was clean if it was the pump though wouldn't the filter be dirty he said there was not gritty bits in pump which he thinks if it is the pump there would be although inside the pump was dirty which he put a cleaner through light comes on very intermitently it has not come on for 3 days but then this morning came on again and no turbo power but clears once we drive a mile down road and stop start it again. This has been going on since easter now so getting well fed up and as we go away next week we are a bit concerned although once going the car is fine. As the garage can't get it sorted before we go away he said if it is a sticky injector we can go away as it will re start would you agree?If injectors are faulty you'll often get a light misfire, and a bit of diesel knock at certain revs/loads, easiest way to diagnose is a leak off check, or check the injector compensations using a diag tool with real-time. Obviously these would need to be carried out by a qualified person if you don't have the tools.
davepoth said:
http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Fuel_Fil...
Doesn't look too onerous - but the fuel filter would have had to have been disturbed to get to the alternator by the looks of it. Perhaps it wasn't refitted properly?
Either way, get the fault codes read, On Board Diagnostics are there to take the guesswork out, it'd be silly to not bother for the cost of them. Might be worth going for one of the bluetooth/phone app ones, as they're very user friendly.
Hi Dave we have had it put onto a machine several times first time it said turbo which we had done then EGR which we had done now when guy plugs it in it is not coming up with a specific fault!!Doesn't look too onerous - but the fuel filter would have had to have been disturbed to get to the alternator by the looks of it. Perhaps it wasn't refitted properly?
Either way, get the fault codes read, On Board Diagnostics are there to take the guesswork out, it'd be silly to not bother for the cost of them. Might be worth going for one of the bluetooth/phone app ones, as they're very user friendly.
Just had similar problems with my Mondeo TDCI 2 litre. It stopped - then 5 minutes later the engine would start again. This happened twice so I took it to my local garage. They didn't have the kit to diagnose the problem, and told me to take the car to a local diesel specialist. When I went to start the car it wouldn't go, so I rang the AA. 40 minutes later the AA man arrived and I said I would need the car transporting to a diesel specialist. However he plugged in his diagnostic kit, and after first not getting a code he managed to find out that it was the cam sensor with an open circuit. I was about to ask at the garage for them to fix it when the AA guy found he had the part ! He duly fitted it ( it took all of 5 minutes) and the car started again - cost £30 for the part. So the moral (from my point of view) is - if it won't go - call the AA !! If it does fail again then I will post here again, but so far the car seems smoother than it was before and goes very well again !
Somebody I know has the same car just a year younger.He is sick to death of it.
DPF blocked,limp mode,DPF cleaned.
DPF again,limp mode,DPF changed,limp mode again not long after.
Re-gen unit changed,didnt last long,limp mode again.
Still not right.Mechanic told him to get it part-exe'd as he was sick of seeing it.
DPF blocked,limp mode,DPF cleaned.
DPF again,limp mode,DPF changed,limp mode again not long after.
Re-gen unit changed,didnt last long,limp mode again.
Still not right.Mechanic told him to get it part-exe'd as he was sick of seeing it.
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