A question of bush. (Ginetta G26)
Discussion
Hello, Im new :P
I recently purchased a ginetta g26 for a bit of tooling around in and for something to tinker with, anyway after a month or 2, i smashed it into a bridge.
The result:
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/448/sadcarissad...
Anyway, turns out it needs a new stearing rack, top&bottom ball joints, track rod ends, and i thought id change the dampeners & springs while i was at it, The question is, is it worth changing bush's to polyurethane that i keep reading about? (Im not pretending to know what im talking about here :P) and do you think it would take much longer then the 4hours labour ive been quoted so far?
Thanks for your help
cheers Joe.
I recently purchased a ginetta g26 for a bit of tooling around in and for something to tinker with, anyway after a month or 2, i smashed it into a bridge.
The result:
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/448/sadcarissad...
Anyway, turns out it needs a new stearing rack, top&bottom ball joints, track rod ends, and i thought id change the dampeners & springs while i was at it, The question is, is it worth changing bush's to polyurethane that i keep reading about? (Im not pretending to know what im talking about here :P) and do you think it would take much longer then the 4hours labour ive been quoted so far?
Thanks for your help
cheers Joe.
Did the bridge step out suddenly? 
The rear axle top bushes were only put in last September, I kept to the standard Ford bushes because I didn’t fancy a harder ride and because there’s not much grip so forces on the bushes aren’t very high.
Changing them is quite easy with a trolley jack, axle stands and a bush puller. I made a bush puller from bits of M10 bolt, nuts and a seat belt spreader, getting a bush puller would be a much better idea.
The rear axle top bushes were only put in last September, I kept to the standard Ford bushes because I didn’t fancy a harder ride and because there’s not much grip so forces on the bushes aren’t very high.
Changing them is quite easy with a trolley jack, axle stands and a bush puller. I made a bush puller from bits of M10 bolt, nuts and a seat belt spreader, getting a bush puller would be a much better idea.
nah i was late for an interview, went around a rather tight s
tty bend (im going for greasy road honest) at about 8mph, and the arse end followed, anyway managed to avoid hitting the oncoming car with the back, and hit and the front on what, (if it had been a normal bend) would have been the curb, but alas massive iron gurder bridge 1" behind it 
getting the machnaic to put the bits in, if i start playing with the stearing and breaks im going to kill myself within half an hour
Just need someone decent with fiberglass now, & to fix the passinger seat, its smashed the fiberglass floor where it was bolted in
tty bend (im going for greasy road honest) at about 8mph, and the arse end followed, anyway managed to avoid hitting the oncoming car with the back, and hit and the front on what, (if it had been a normal bend) would have been the curb, but alas massive iron gurder bridge 1" behind it getting the machnaic to put the bits in, if i start playing with the stearing and breaks im going to kill myself within half an hour
Just need someone decent with fiberglass now, & to fix the passinger seat, its smashed the fiberglass floor where it was bolted in
Edited by JoesG26 on Thursday 24th March 14:58
Heres a laugh if you fancy one :<
The mot garage said:
Drivers seat insecure (6.2.3)
Nearside Front Passengers seat insecure (6.2.3)
Nearside Front Passengers seat cannot be secured in the upright position. (6.2.4)
Offside Front position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.2b)
Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Nearside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Hazard warning tell tale not working correctly (1.4.B.1c)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition on (1.4.B.1d)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition off (1.4.B.1d)
Nearside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Offside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Horn not working (1.6.2a)
Nearside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Offside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Steering column flexible coupling is excessively deteriorated (2.1.4)
Steering column flexible coupling fractured and unserviceable (2.2.C.1c)
Steering cupling Steering system fouling (2.2.D.2a)
Nearside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Nearside Front wheel bearing rough when rotated (2.5.A.2)
Nearside Front Braking system leaking (3.6.A.1) **DANGEROUS**
Nearside Front brake application uneven (3.7.A.2c)
Front brakes imbalanced (3.7.A.2d)
Nearside Front Passengers seat insecure (6.2.3)
Nearside Front Passengers seat cannot be secured in the upright position. (6.2.4)
Offside Front position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.2b)
Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Nearside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Hazard warning tell tale not working correctly (1.4.B.1c)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition on (1.4.B.1d)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition off (1.4.B.1d)
Nearside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Offside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Horn not working (1.6.2a)
Nearside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Offside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Steering column flexible coupling is excessively deteriorated (2.1.4)
Steering column flexible coupling fractured and unserviceable (2.2.C.1c)
Steering cupling Steering system fouling (2.2.D.2a)
Nearside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Nearside Front wheel bearing rough when rotated (2.5.A.2)
Nearside Front Braking system leaking (3.6.A.1) **DANGEROUS**
Nearside Front brake application uneven (3.7.A.2c)
Front brakes imbalanced (3.7.A.2d)
JoesG26 said:
Heres a laugh if you fancy one :<
You'll have to point out the funny part for me Joe. How much of that little lot did you really need the MOT tester to tell you. It's no wonder you go around smacking bridges for fun. Hopefully the polyurethane bushes have slipped down the priority list. Just glad you hit something rather than someone. Rant over!g32turbo said:
JoesG26 said:
Heres a laugh if you fancy one :<
You'll have to point out the funny part for me Joe. How much of that little lot did you really need the MOT tester to tell you. It's no wonder you go around smacking bridges for fun. Hopefully the polyurethane bushes have slipped down the priority list. Just glad you hit something rather than someone. Rant over!The tyres and brakes I agree are a bit of no go, but how many check their tyres? and again the accident if it ripped through the floor, well, could easily have damaged or split the brake pipes or connections. AND he admits knowing nothing about the 'nuts and bolts' of cars and give him his due, he is having it done properly one assumes because it's in the 'garage with the mechanic', hence why he's asking is 4 hours labour about right?
He's not attempting to do it, so perhaps we should give him that due. At least he came on here and asked.
A guy across the road from me has a 3 year old Toyota. Like many he just jumps in and drives. I noted his front tyres were well worn months ago and mentioned it but he just said 'it's been serviced'. He came over a couple weeks ago - failed it's first mot simply because of this - he said there were 'wires' sticking out!!! Makes you wonder what's coming at you the other way sometimes. At least enthusiasts, even those over-enthusiastic ones, do try to remedy their problems, albeit perhaps not soon enough.
The dude above said:
You'll have to point out the funny part for me Joe. How much of that little lot did you really need the MOT tester to tell you. It's no wonder you go around smacking bridges for fun. Hopefully the polyurethane bushes have slipped down the priority list. Just glad you hit something rather than someone. Rant over!
Well i havent been driving it for a start. (it would be fair to say 1 tyre was border line @ best, i wanted to change the wheels, so wasnt much point spending 30quid a new one, and the other one was the spare as i smashed one off the curb.The Guy sugested moting it, before carrying the repairs (at the point before the mot, he sugested top&bottom ball joints, stearing rack & tie rod ends) and 4 hours @ 122quid
It now needs (as well as the above which ive already now got) 2 engine mounts, The stearing coupling & joint, 2 brake discs & pads, 1 caliper, 2 wheel bearings & 350quid labour
sad face.
And i still dont know if theres any bush's worth changing when the front ends in bits!
As for the seats there bolted into the fiberglass and he went spastic.
Edited by JoesG26 on Thursday 31st March 11:30
Let's run through this lot, I don't think there's much to worry about.
Not sure about the seat not securing upright? Replacement Recaros are pretty cheap if it can't be fixed, but usually they can.
Have a go with the stuff that's easy, pass on anything else to the garage. They're easy cars to work on despite some mechanics whining like an old milkfloat. If they think it's hard to work on, a mate just had a connector replaced on his Land Rover Discovery - 6 hours work for one connector! 1970s Fords and '80s Ginettas aren't even in the same league.
It's a long list but not as bad as you first think. 3 lines to say the steering rubber needs replacing, 3 lines to say there's a brake pipe leaking.
JoesG26 said:
Drivers seat insecure (6.2.3)
Nearside Front Passengers seat insecure (6.2.3)
Nearside Front Passengers seat cannot be secured in the upright position. (6.2.4)
The seat runners were a bit of a faff, I used very large thick washers to spread the load and the seat runner nearest the propshaft tunnel is on the floor completely. Get some thicker sheet metal (like 2mm) cut into 50mm squares and use those instead, that will be stronger than the original design. Otherwise you're restricted because the seat runner bolts aren't where the little chassis plates are.Nearside Front Passengers seat insecure (6.2.3)
Nearside Front Passengers seat cannot be secured in the upright position. (6.2.4)
Not sure about the seat not securing upright? Replacement Recaros are pretty cheap if it can't be fixed, but usually they can.
JoesG26 said:
Offside Front position lamp(s) not working (1.1.A.2b)
Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Nearside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Hazard warning tell tale not working correctly (1.4.B.1c)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition on (1.4.B.1d)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition off (1.4.B.1d)
Nearside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Offside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Horn not working (1.6.2a)
Sadly the quality of connectors from Ginetta (and Ford!) weren't that great. Get in there with a fibreglass pencil (£4 from Halfords) and clean the connectors up. Worth checking fuses first of course. I think it uses bullet fuses which are prone to vibration and then losing contact. Pop the fuses out and clean up the blades with holes in the fusebox too. Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (1.7.4a)
Nearside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Offside Headlamp not working on main beam (1.7.4a)
Hazard warning tell tale not working correctly (1.4.B.1c)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition on (1.4.B.1d)
Hazard warning lamps not flashing in phase, with ignition off (1.4.B.1d)
Nearside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Offside Registration plate lamp not fitted (1.1.C.1a)
Horn not working (1.6.2a)
JoesG26 said:
Nearside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
Offside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
It needs 2 new tyres. Luckily they're cheap; I got some for my 1988 car a couple of months ago and 2 were much cheaper than 1 tyre someone else was having on their new Mini.Offside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.E.1)
JoesG26 said:
Steering column flexible coupling is excessively deteriorated (2.1.4)
Steering column flexible coupling fractured and unserviceable (2.2.C.1c)
Steering cupling Steering system fouling (2.2.D.2a)
That's the rubber cylinder at the end of the steering column, close to the exhaust manifold? Cortina Mk3 part, should be easy to change.Steering column flexible coupling fractured and unserviceable (2.2.C.1c)
Steering cupling Steering system fouling (2.2.D.2a)
JoesG26 said:
Nearside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
I've never bothered with doing balljoints myself, a garage has the proper tools and the can do them much quicker. Again, Cortina ones aren't complicated.Offside Front Track rod end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.3)
JoesG26 said:
Nearside Front wheel bearing rough when rotated (2.5.A.2)
A replacement wheel bearing is a tenner, fitting is half an hour even for you or I not in the mood. Front wheel off, caliper bolts off (pads and discs were changed recently so they won't be rusted) and pop the new bearing in. The Haynes manual tells you how to adjust it.JoesG26 said:
Nearside Front Braking system leaking (3.6.A.1) **DANGEROUS**
Nearside Front brake application uneven (3.7.A.2c)
Front brakes imbalanced (3.7.A.2d)
Again, this is 1 fault. Ask where the leak is and replace the offending pipe. Bleed the brakes and all's well.Nearside Front brake application uneven (3.7.A.2c)
Front brakes imbalanced (3.7.A.2d)
Have a go with the stuff that's easy, pass on anything else to the garage. They're easy cars to work on despite some mechanics whining like an old milkfloat. If they think it's hard to work on, a mate just had a connector replaced on his Land Rover Discovery - 6 hours work for one connector! 1970s Fords and '80s Ginettas aren't even in the same league.
It's a long list but not as bad as you first think. 3 lines to say the steering rubber needs replacing, 3 lines to say there's a brake pipe leaking.
JoesG26 said:
It now needs (as well as the above which ive already now got) 2 engine mounts, The stearing coupling & joint, 2 brake discs & pads
Discs wearing out in 6 months? He's not very good with the truth is he?Edited by garethj on Saturday 2nd April 07:14
Darkspeed said:
Regarding all the headlight fails - sound like he could not get the pods to raise.
Personally I would advise you find find a more kit friendly test station. My local garage know me very well and love seeing the Ginetta's they also work to pass the cars not fail them.
Andrew
When I used to take my Ginetta into the local MOT garage, the boss used to say 'hooray, boredom is about to disappear for a while lads!'Personally I would advise you find find a more kit friendly test station. My local garage know me very well and love seeing the Ginetta's they also work to pass the cars not fail them.
Andrew
[quote=garethj
Sadly the quality of connectors from Ginetta (and Ford!) weren't that great. Get in there with a fibreglass pencil (£4 from Halfords) and clean the connectors up. Worth checking fuses first of course. I think it uses bullet fuses which are prone to vibration and then losing contact. Pop the fuses out and clean up the blades with holes in the fusebox too.
[/quote]
This! there will probabley be a little fusebox somewhere, at least there was on my G31. whenever the lights didnt work I had to give the fuses a little twiddle and they worked again. this isnt the main fusebox but a small one just for the lights. mine was bolted onto the fiberglass near the radiator.
[quote=luke g28]Why arent the seats bolted into the chassis rails? Mine are on my g28
[/quote]
As were mine on My G31!?
Sadly the quality of connectors from Ginetta (and Ford!) weren't that great. Get in there with a fibreglass pencil (£4 from Halfords) and clean the connectors up. Worth checking fuses first of course. I think it uses bullet fuses which are prone to vibration and then losing contact. Pop the fuses out and clean up the blades with holes in the fusebox too.
[/quote]
This! there will probabley be a little fusebox somewhere, at least there was on my G31. whenever the lights didnt work I had to give the fuses a little twiddle and they worked again. this isnt the main fusebox but a small one just for the lights. mine was bolted onto the fiberglass near the radiator.
[quote=luke g28]Why arent the seats bolted into the chassis rails? Mine are on my g28
[/quote]
As were mine on My G31!?
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