Warning light on G20 (street car)

[B-T]

I have a 2002 Ginetta G20 street car (Us version). This car has a few warning indicators on the dash that I do not know what some of them are for.

One is a red light with an exclamation point inside parenthsis, for the parking brake.

The second one is an amber light that glows dimly all the time (I can only see that it is on at night). I don't know what it is for.

The third is a solid red light that started coming on intermittently a few months ago, and now stays on all the time. I was a little low on brake fluid when it first started coming on, so I topped that off, but the light stays on. I disconnected the battery to try and reset it, as well as shaking the brake fluid sensor to make sure it is not stuck. Any ideas?

I cannot seem to find any wiring diagram or owner's manual available anywhere. Thanks in advance!

I know the green lights are for the turn signal indicators, and the blue is the high beam indicator.

BT

[james111s]

Amber is low oil pressure. Start worrying. At best a faulty bit of wiring. At worst new engine. I would get it checked asap.

Solid Red - battery not charging - likely needs a new alternator.


Other red with exclamation mark - low brake fluid warning and handbrake (parking ) is on.

Edited by james111s on Tuesday 27th May 17:57

[dandarez]

Red as James says is ignition (battery) but if it's been 'full on' red as long as you say, you should have had a flat battery by now! Check belt isn't slipping. Check battery charge.

Amber (orange) is oil light. If on dim then it could be shorting probably at oil pressure switch connection or a faulty oil press.switch.

Don't leave either, or you car may leave you ...stranded!

[B-T]

Thanks for the replies. Is there any source to get a owner's manual or a build manual for the US road going G20? I think it would answer most future questions I might have. The good thing about the warnings is that although the car might leave me stranded it won't cost much to fix as the Mazda motors and parts used on the US cars are plentiful and cheap! Although the red light has been on for quite a long time I generally use a battery charger between drives to keep the battery full. I haven't been on any long drives so I will get the alternator checked.
Thanks again.
BT

Edited by B-T on Wednesday 28th May 14:01

[james111s]

Hi B-T
Just reread my post... didn't mean to be so blunt was in a bit of a rush.

Mr darez has covered the bits i missed, I have a build manual, but as i understand it the US version was not sold as a kit due to insurance issues?

www.ginettacars.com should be able to send / sell you a build manual, which although helpful, does leave quite a lot to be worked out independently. Although Ginetta no longer sell the car as a kit, i'm sure they must have the build manuals propping doors open in the offices...

James.

[B-T]

I did not read your reply as being blunt. But blunt is fine, the question got answered!
I have sent an email to Ginettacars to see if they can sell me a build manual.
Thanks again.
BT

[ginettag27]

Maybe try GKD if Ginetta aren't able to sell/give you one..

http://www.gkdsportscars.com/

[B-T]

Just to close this one out, here's the scoop. The red light was wired to the oil pressure sensor instead of the alternator. It was on due to a faulty oil pressure sensor which was replaced. The alternator checked out fine as well as the battery. The dim orange light was determined to be from a poor ground in the charging system. I also had the radiator flushed and filled with less coolant and added water wetter from Redline. Total repair cost was $85.
I wish the Ferrari had repair bills like that!

BT

[minimax]

B-T said:

Just to close this one out, here's the scoop. The red light was wired to the oil pressure sensor instead of the alternator. It was on due to a faulty oil pressure sensor which was replaced. The alternator checked out fine as well as the battery. The dim orange light was determined to be from a poor ground in the charging system. I also had the radiator flushed and filled with less coolant and added water wetter from Redline. Total repair cost was $85.
I wish the Ferrari had repair bills like that!

BT

that is a lot of work for 40odd quid! my G33 used to cost upwards of 3kGBP every frigging time!

[B-T]

Well I get to test the pricing of my mechanic again. The gas tank has sprung a leak. A very slow drip that seems to be from the center seam. It looks like I can drill out the pop rivets under the rear of the body and unbolt the little subframing piece that goes under the gas tank. A couple other bolts and the tank should be able to come out by rotating it as it is lowered. Anything I am missing? I am not going to do this myself, but thought it would be good to give the mechanic any pertinant information.
BT

[B-T]

So the gas tank was leaking at the seam where it had been notched and welded to have better clearance around the rear differential. The mechanic had to cut out the bottom of the car to get the tank out, flush it and clean it out, have it welded, then re-install with some new filer hoses and a new vent hose. I also had him rebalance the wheels, 3 out of 4 were off by more than 30g on both the inside and outside. The total cost of the repairs was $350. Still a bargain!
:-)
BT