G40 - Wiring Diagram
Discussion
Well, 4 hours in and I still don’t have access to the fuse box.
I have no power at the light for main beam. Suspecting fuse or relay I set about removing the central switch panel in the dash as previous discussions have mentioned that it is behind there.
Now this is where I began to get a little frustrated. The cap head bolts ginetta had put in were tightened beyond belief, not to mention poor quality. One stripped the head, which I managed to overcome, but the utter pain in the arse was that ginetta seem to have decided that making captive nuts in grp by sticking them on the back of a hole with tiger seal is a good bit of design. Two nuts unsurprisingly broke loose behind the dash meaning I had to carefully cut the heads off with the dremel without damaging the switch panel or the flock dash. Not impressed.
Anyway over 2 hours careful messing about I removed the switch panel, only to find a blank space behind and no sign of fuse box or relays....
A lot of further gymnastics revealed that they are in the passenger side of my car, tucked up behind the dashboard with the fuse box cover touching the back of the dash. Another brilliant bit of design - take the full dash out or cut a hole in the dash to get to a f*ckng fuse!
A bit miffed by the above I thought I would tackle an easy job and change the blown rear indicator bulb. Looked in the boot - no access to light.... looked up in wheelarch.... yep, it appears the entire back bumper panel and diffuser etc has to be removed to change an indicator bulb....
Garage door closed, I can’t be bothered. I Can’t quite believe that no thought seems to have gone into simple maintenance when the car was designed. Both those jobs on my old Elise would have taken 5mins maximum. Four hours in and I am no closer to fixing.
If anyone has any wiring / relay info I would be grateful.
I have no power at the light for main beam. Suspecting fuse or relay I set about removing the central switch panel in the dash as previous discussions have mentioned that it is behind there.
Now this is where I began to get a little frustrated. The cap head bolts ginetta had put in were tightened beyond belief, not to mention poor quality. One stripped the head, which I managed to overcome, but the utter pain in the arse was that ginetta seem to have decided that making captive nuts in grp by sticking them on the back of a hole with tiger seal is a good bit of design. Two nuts unsurprisingly broke loose behind the dash meaning I had to carefully cut the heads off with the dremel without damaging the switch panel or the flock dash. Not impressed.
Anyway over 2 hours careful messing about I removed the switch panel, only to find a blank space behind and no sign of fuse box or relays....
A lot of further gymnastics revealed that they are in the passenger side of my car, tucked up behind the dashboard with the fuse box cover touching the back of the dash. Another brilliant bit of design - take the full dash out or cut a hole in the dash to get to a f*ckng fuse!
A bit miffed by the above I thought I would tackle an easy job and change the blown rear indicator bulb. Looked in the boot - no access to light.... looked up in wheelarch.... yep, it appears the entire back bumper panel and diffuser etc has to be removed to change an indicator bulb....
Garage door closed, I can’t be bothered. I Can’t quite believe that no thought seems to have gone into simple maintenance when the car was designed. Both those jobs on my old Elise would have taken 5mins maximum. Four hours in and I am no closer to fixing.
If anyone has any wiring / relay info I would be grateful.
I've sent you some wiring diagrams to the email you have given.
The under-dash gymnastics are made easier if you take the passenger seat out.
To remove the entire dash, you need to remove the steering wheel, hub and cowling. I have some instructions about this from Ginetta. If you reply to my wiring diagram email, I will forward you the dash removal instructions.
You can cut holes inside the boot to access the rear of the lights, but then you risk water ingress. The holes can be re-sealed with large grommets or tape.
JW.
The under-dash gymnastics are made easier if you take the passenger seat out.
To remove the entire dash, you need to remove the steering wheel, hub and cowling. I have some instructions about this from Ginetta. If you reply to my wiring diagram email, I will forward you the dash removal instructions.
You can cut holes inside the boot to access the rear of the lights, but then you risk water ingress. The holes can be re-sealed with large grommets or tape.
JW.
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