Do you have A/C in your G40? - help needed
Discussion
Hi,
I am looking at retro fitting air con into my G40.
If anyone has a G40 with air-con it would be really useful to have some photos of the set-up.
The compressor I presume is the standard ford unit, but then It would be good to know what heater / air con unit is fitted and where it is located. Would also be useful to have a photo of the dryer if anyone can find it.
Part numbers would be awesome..!
If anyone can help with any info that would be great.
Cheers.
I am looking at retro fitting air con into my G40.
If anyone has a G40 with air-con it would be really useful to have some photos of the set-up.
The compressor I presume is the standard ford unit, but then It would be good to know what heater / air con unit is fitted and where it is located. Would also be useful to have a photo of the dryer if anyone can find it.
Part numbers would be awesome..!
If anyone can help with any info that would be great.
Cheers.
The air con system is a bespoke system designed by these people http://www.elitekl.co.uk/. However, they are designer/manufacturers for the industry rather than selling direct to the public. I only went there as helpfully arranged by the Ginetta factory to sort some problems with mine from new.
The evaporator is inside the heater box, under the dashboard. The condenser mounts in front of the radiator. The dryer goes front right ahead of the steering rack. The pump mounts bottom left of the block. You could probably cobble something together with parts from Car Builder Solutions, but the heater/evaporator box might be better off direct from the factory. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/heatac#/pag...
The pipes go through the bulkhead to the right side of the cylinder head.
As an alternative, it would be beneficial to arrange fresh air entry and exit feeds to the cabin. As it comes, the air is recirculated so condensation builds up as I'm sure you will have experienced.
The evaporator is inside the heater box, under the dashboard. The condenser mounts in front of the radiator. The dryer goes front right ahead of the steering rack. The pump mounts bottom left of the block. You could probably cobble something together with parts from Car Builder Solutions, but the heater/evaporator box might be better off direct from the factory. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/heatac#/pag...
The pipes go through the bulkhead to the right side of the cylinder head.
As an alternative, it would be beneficial to arrange fresh air entry and exit feeds to the cabin. As it comes, the air is recirculated so condensation builds up as I'm sure you will have experienced.
Edited by jwoffshore on Monday 26th February 23:06
That is really useful, thanks.
I was expecting it to be the CBS system, but it looks as though Ginetta got it properly designed.
I guess it recirculates the air as it is a small unit / output and therefore can't really cope with cooling direct feed air? Most of the small units I have seen state that they need to re-circulate cabin air rather than external air to work.
I guess my next question is does it really work in the factory set up? Does it cool the interior? I don't want to go to the hassle only to find it doesn't make much difference?
I was expecting it to be the CBS system, but it looks as though Ginetta got it properly designed.
I guess it recirculates the air as it is a small unit / output and therefore can't really cope with cooling direct feed air? Most of the small units I have seen state that they need to re-circulate cabin air rather than external air to work.
I guess my next question is does it really work in the factory set up? Does it cool the interior? I don't want to go to the hassle only to find it doesn't make much difference?
Yes, it does cool the interior and it helps to reduce the humidity of the recirculating air. Nevertheless, it's not as effective as the "climate control" fitted to modern production cars. On a hot summer day it is only just coping and you will still need the heated screen for effective demisting in wet weather.
Another thing to check is that the water valve for the heater matrix is closing fully when supposed to be in the cold position. On mine, the cable benefited from some thin oil trickled down it to transmit the full movement from the control knob.
Another thing to check is that the water valve for the heater matrix is closing fully when supposed to be in the cold position. On mine, the cable benefited from some thin oil trickled down it to transmit the full movement from the control knob.
I was going to take the opposite route with mine and remove the air con. Then use the hole in the bulkhead that was used to route the air con plumbing to feed a fresh air duct into the cabin. I can cope with being warm but not poor air quality by recirculating constantly. Unless anyone knows of a better way to supply fresh air and keep the air con?
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