Anyone know this G33?
Discussion
I've been looking at this advert, not a lot of info in there - which is never a good sign - and not many photos either. However, I'm trying to re-arrange work to allow me to travel down to see it soon. Just thought maybe someone on here knows it or owns it and could pass on some details.
Cheers if anyone can assist.
The advert is
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C747291
Cheers if anyone can assist.
The advert is
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C747291
Not one I know of, but these are very basic cars but check the following specifically:
Chassis and fuel tank corrosion as the paint is poor.
knocking differential as the bolts come loose. The rear upper diff mountings can crack if the blots have loosened, but you need to remove the fuel tank to see them. Its no big job to repair, but needs an additional plate welded into to reinforce the mountings.
Play in suspension bushes and rose joints (these should have all been replaced at least once by now)
Check the cooling fans work- the fuses and loom burn out.
If the Avo dampers are fitted check for oil leaks and squeaks.
Exhaust system is cobbled together from various Golf GTI boxes and the like, and the factory set up had no zinc plating so rusted horribly.
Check for even tyre wear as the suspension geometry has to be spot on to get the car to handle acceptably. If you go for a run, pass your hand over the tyre surface and check the temperature is even across the tyre. If its not things need tweaking.
If its got the fondmetal wheels- they look lovely, but if they are corroded they are difficult to refurbish dues to the turned finish, and they get bent quite easily, so check for vibrations on any test run.
Brakes- non power assisted, so feel like wood unless you fit softer pads. EBC green work well
Check for hydraulic leaks around the clutch and brake master cylinders and clutch slave. If they have not been replaced already it will need doing.
The rest is down to common sense really- check the cooling fluid and hydraulic fluid is clean. The cooling system is well up to the job if its working correctly, so the engine should not run hot. Look for damage to the nose cone as you have no bumpers, and the interiors will be tatty if its factory original. The engine and gear box is pretty much indestructible as long as you dont cook the engine. The 3.9 is pretty tough, but if a larger engine has been fitted and gets cooked the liners can shift.
Chassis and fuel tank corrosion as the paint is poor.
knocking differential as the bolts come loose. The rear upper diff mountings can crack if the blots have loosened, but you need to remove the fuel tank to see them. Its no big job to repair, but needs an additional plate welded into to reinforce the mountings.
Play in suspension bushes and rose joints (these should have all been replaced at least once by now)
Check the cooling fans work- the fuses and loom burn out.
If the Avo dampers are fitted check for oil leaks and squeaks.
Exhaust system is cobbled together from various Golf GTI boxes and the like, and the factory set up had no zinc plating so rusted horribly.
Check for even tyre wear as the suspension geometry has to be spot on to get the car to handle acceptably. If you go for a run, pass your hand over the tyre surface and check the temperature is even across the tyre. If its not things need tweaking.
If its got the fondmetal wheels- they look lovely, but if they are corroded they are difficult to refurbish dues to the turned finish, and they get bent quite easily, so check for vibrations on any test run.
Brakes- non power assisted, so feel like wood unless you fit softer pads. EBC green work well
Check for hydraulic leaks around the clutch and brake master cylinders and clutch slave. If they have not been replaced already it will need doing.
The rest is down to common sense really- check the cooling fluid and hydraulic fluid is clean. The cooling system is well up to the job if its working correctly, so the engine should not run hot. Look for damage to the nose cone as you have no bumpers, and the interiors will be tatty if its factory original. The engine and gear box is pretty much indestructible as long as you dont cook the engine. The 3.9 is pretty tough, but if a larger engine has been fitted and gets cooked the liners can shift.
Edited by blitzracing on Thursday 26th May 11:59
Blitzracing is quite right. These are simple but often need sorting. The one I had was very scary, product of worn shocks (but they aren´t easy to change, from memory).
G33s tend to have had a lot of owners, never quite got developed by the factory. Red isn´t a great colour, and it is a shape which is colour sensitive, suits darker colours.
But just deal on the price, expect to pay something to sort it out (like the seller seems to have done!) and enjoy a fabulous car which is still huge value for money. Downside, you´ll get a lot of attention and have to answer a lot of questions!
G33s tend to have had a lot of owners, never quite got developed by the factory. Red isn´t a great colour, and it is a shape which is colour sensitive, suits darker colours.
But just deal on the price, expect to pay something to sort it out (like the seller seems to have done!) and enjoy a fabulous car which is still huge value for money. Downside, you´ll get a lot of attention and have to answer a lot of questions!
The colours an interesting one- I personally think they need a bit of bright work added so it looks less kit car like. I was a bit extreme by adding chrome side pipes, but simple things like a Radiator grill and a bit of trim , some chrome wipers can all help make the car look a lot more finished.
Look carefully at the fuse box and the connections behind it. They are known to overheat melting stuff and generally being a nuisance.
Bump steer will be evident if the front geo is out.
If the car has a hood, make sure it fits. The fit will only ever be approximate, but the hood can shrink with age making fitting impossible.
I tested a red one that had a tubular manifold. If it's got that check carefully for leaks, the bloke that made them was incompetent (don't ask me how I know!)
Price looks good. I sold mine for quite a bit more.
Bump steer will be evident if the front geo is out.
If the car has a hood, make sure it fits. The fit will only ever be approximate, but the hood can shrink with age making fitting impossible.
I tested a red one that had a tubular manifold. If it's got that check carefully for leaks, the bloke that made them was incompetent (don't ask me how I know!)
Price looks good. I sold mine for quite a bit more.
Edited by blueg33 on Tuesday 31st May 17:29
Or if you don't mind left hand drive, importing a car and have a little more money you can have one that was built right in the first place..... A G34
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C749359
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C749359
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