WOF on an Elise where who and what?
Discussion
Hi Guys i've got to get a WOF for my Elise it's first since import can anyone recommend someone in Wellington. How much should it cost, will they need to take the undetray off, will they need to drive it?
Some one I know said the brake test is done on the road with some sort of meter? This worries me because the un-servoed brakes would scare the hell out of most people before they realise they have to press hard, then things work fine!
The rear wheel bearings are whining quite well once worn especially on bends but there is no noticeable play when you check for it. Will it fail or should I get the parts ordered a bit quick?
TA.
Some one I know said the brake test is done on the road with some sort of meter? This worries me because the un-servoed brakes would scare the hell out of most people before they realise they have to press hard, then things work fine!
The rear wheel bearings are whining quite well once worn especially on bends but there is no noticeable play when you check for it. Will it fail or should I get the parts ordered a bit quick?
TA.
Steve,
Doesn't involve a drive if you go to one of the proper testing stations, they drvie it but from end of the building to the other, in most case 50 metres.
Under tray not required to come off, but show them the jacking points as the testing station guys aren't that clued up when it comes to an Elise.
Brake testing is done on a machine - rollers, drive car on, front then back, pretty simple, don't think they will check for beariing noise, just play.
Depending on the mileage of your car, ball joints are the likely area of problems......
Try:
"On Road" www.onroad.co.nz/
"VTNZ" www.vtnz.co.nz/
Ring Ken @ KW Historics and ask who's the best in that area, might find a local garage that will do it ? But testing stations are pretty quick & painless - good luck !
>> Edited by kiwi le on Sunday 19th February 02:53
Doesn't involve a drive if you go to one of the proper testing stations, they drvie it but from end of the building to the other, in most case 50 metres.
Under tray not required to come off, but show them the jacking points as the testing station guys aren't that clued up when it comes to an Elise.
Brake testing is done on a machine - rollers, drive car on, front then back, pretty simple, don't think they will check for beariing noise, just play.
Depending on the mileage of your car, ball joints are the likely area of problems......
Try:
"On Road" www.onroad.co.nz/
"VTNZ" www.vtnz.co.nz/
Ring Ken @ KW Historics and ask who's the best in that area, might find a local garage that will do it ? But testing stations are pretty quick & painless - good luck !
>> Edited by kiwi le on Sunday 19th February 02:53
kiwi le said:That's one way but there are others that involve driving and braking with an accelerometer.
Brake testing is done on a machine - rollers, drive car on, front then back . . .
If you don't go to VTNZ make sure that whoever you use is MTA approved.
I agree with Dean about finding a good local workshop. There have been examples where VTNZ has failed a car for things that are not a WoF matter. It helps at times to have a good mechanic butt-heads on your behalf.
I go to the AA testing station for mine now, found VTNZ to be incredibly anal (probably something to do with me being young...) but things they've failed my cars on previously have included: condensation in foglights, one blown number-plate light bulb, spotlight wiring (admittedly illegal because not wired into high beam, so I unplugged 2 wires >> spots not go >> pass >> plug wires in again)
I've either taken my liz to a proper testing station or a mechanic that I know..... I insist on being there with them as they do the ckeck as I don't trust ANYONE to jack up the car without me being there...... as in the last place I went to they said they have them in all the time and jack them up under the "front crossmember"..... then they showed me where this "front crossmember" was on my car from the pit and it was under the ali chassis right beneath the front crash structure!!!!! Let's just say that if they'd jacked my car up there I'd have had a heart attack!!!!!! I just get them to jack one side at a time from the jacking points either side near the rear of the doors... they can do all their tests from there (suspension/steering/wheelbearing play).
They won't need to take the undertrays off. At testing stations they'll test the brakes on a machine, others SHOULD take it for a testdrive to check the brakes but some won't and will be happy just taking it down the drive and standing on the brakes.
Like Dean said, pays to get someone you trust to look at the car... there's probably only two places that I'm happy actually LEAVING the car without me being there.... anywhere else I'm paranoid that it'll either be incorrectly jacked/handled or it'll be "test driven".... best to find someone trustworthy and stick with them
They won't need to take the undertrays off. At testing stations they'll test the brakes on a machine, others SHOULD take it for a testdrive to check the brakes but some won't and will be happy just taking it down the drive and standing on the brakes.
Like Dean said, pays to get someone you trust to look at the car... there's probably only two places that I'm happy actually LEAVING the car without me being there.... anywhere else I'm paranoid that it'll either be incorrectly jacked/handled or it'll be "test driven".... best to find someone trustworthy and stick with them
Kiwi XTR2 said:
GravelBen said:Admits to illegal, potentially unsafe car
. . . spotlight wiring (admittedly illegal because not wired into high beam, so I unplugged 2 wires >> spots not go >> pass >> plug wires in again)
Call the Feds ! ! !
don't have that one any more, wasn't me, no evidence, you can't prove anything!!! not that that would change anything these days
heh heh that was a pair of 100w spots on the old Subie Leone....the spots put out about double what the headlights did
Steve Luck said:Yeah it's normally OK as long as the 'defects' do not make the car unsafe. You can then drive directly to the 'place of repair' which can be a workshop or your home.
Thanks for all the advice. How much should I pay? If it fails what happens next. In the UK its OK to drive to a testing station wthout an MOT (WOF) same here?
Steve
In more extreme circumstances the WoF agent is required load some kind of notice on the LTNZ system and report you if you drive the car away. This is quite rare.
Yup, all are correct... a WOF will cost between 30 and 45 dollars depending on where you go, it's a pretty quick standard thing.. most garages will do while you wait. Like I said, N never let the Elise out of my sight when it's with the inspectors. The testing station down the road from work I take it to now, the indian guy down there even lets me manoeuvre/jack my own car and is happy me being right there with him when he does the check.
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