Care of automotive timber/veneers.
Discussion
I have posed the same question elsewhere but maybe you can offer some advise for me. My new old chariot is, in estate agent speak, heavily timbered interior. Now this wood is all original so about 80 odd years old, and some of it is a little flakey. In an few areas the varnish has peeled and cracked, some areas slight water staining and some scuffing. Now all of this is patina but also deteriation and I need to conserve what I have rather than wholesale stripping back and restain/laquer. Any tips please.
Tricky one - when to repair and when to refinish - the former keeps the patina and the latter (depending on how it is done) can look horribly shiny...
A varnish finish can fail because as it ages it loses its flexibility, and becomes brittle and prone to crazing and cracking, with the finish flaking around the cracks, particularly where the crack goes through to the wood, helped along (or rather not) by moisture and sunlight. And in some areas, it just gets worn off.
Cleaning throughly, but gently, is the first step before inspecting it closely. Key things that can be repaired rather than refinished are most white/milky spots, where the finish is worn through, minor cracks/crazing that don't go through to the wood, nicks/scratches, and a dull appearance. Go beyond that to where the finish is flaking off, crazed/cracked all the way down to the wood, sticky (after cleaning), or varnish has turned dark/dark patches under the finish, tend to move one towards refinishing that part affected, or the whole piece, if it is all affected. Blending new into old is possible if the composition of the old finish is known/can be found out, as the thinner element can be used to soften the old finish - traditional french polish repairs are a good example of this using a "wiping" varnish and a rag, rather than brushing.
Be careful though of using modern varnishes or solvents - the original ingredients may not respond in the right way! Even modern waxes can contain thinners that will soften the varnish such that it won't re-harden! Aside from one's own judgement, and the usual advice of work on a small area to see how it goes, it might also be worth finding a good antique furniture restorer for an opinion?
MG Mark
A varnish finish can fail because as it ages it loses its flexibility, and becomes brittle and prone to crazing and cracking, with the finish flaking around the cracks, particularly where the crack goes through to the wood, helped along (or rather not) by moisture and sunlight. And in some areas, it just gets worn off.
Cleaning throughly, but gently, is the first step before inspecting it closely. Key things that can be repaired rather than refinished are most white/milky spots, where the finish is worn through, minor cracks/crazing that don't go through to the wood, nicks/scratches, and a dull appearance. Go beyond that to where the finish is flaking off, crazed/cracked all the way down to the wood, sticky (after cleaning), or varnish has turned dark/dark patches under the finish, tend to move one towards refinishing that part affected, or the whole piece, if it is all affected. Blending new into old is possible if the composition of the old finish is known/can be found out, as the thinner element can be used to soften the old finish - traditional french polish repairs are a good example of this using a "wiping" varnish and a rag, rather than brushing.
Be careful though of using modern varnishes or solvents - the original ingredients may not respond in the right way! Even modern waxes can contain thinners that will soften the varnish such that it won't re-harden! Aside from one's own judgement, and the usual advice of work on a small area to see how it goes, it might also be worth finding a good antique furniture restorer for an opinion?
MG Mark
Interesting info', thanks Mark. The interior of the car has suffered a little in recent years by the look of things. I want to bring it back to an attractive finish but not ruin the patina. The carpets are shot but as they are not an original item pose no problem to renew (other than cost
) The leather is no problem just lashings of cleaner and the conditioner over the next year or so, I use Gliptone. But the woodwork is another matter and you have highlighted some significant factors which I had'nt considered or known about. Think I may adopt your suggestion and seek out an expert and maybe an quote (when I have saved up).
) The leather is no problem just lashings of cleaner and the conditioner over the next year or so, I use Gliptone. But the woodwork is another matter and you have highlighted some significant factors which I had'nt considered or known about. Think I may adopt your suggestion and seek out an expert and maybe an quote (when I have saved up).crankedup said:
Interesting info', thanks Mark. The interior of the car has suffered a little in recent years by the look of things. I want to bring it back to an attractive finish but not ruin the patina. The carpets are shot but as they are not an original item pose no problem to renew (other than cost) The leather is no problem just lashings of cleaner and the conditioner over the next year or so, I use Gliptone. But the woodwork is another matter and you have highlighted some significant factors which I had'nt considered or known about. Think I may adopt your suggestion and seek out an expert and maybe an quote (when I have saved up).
No problem - glad it helps; conserving rather than replacing is always a more satisying way ahead if it can be achieved with a good end result. On carpets and trim, I have always found Woolies in Market Deeping to be a rich source of good materials at sensible prices. ) The leather is no problem just lashings of cleaner and the conditioner over the next year or so, I use Gliptone. But the woodwork is another matter and you have highlighted some significant factors which I had'nt considered or known about. Think I may adopt your suggestion and seek out an expert and maybe an quote (when I have saved up).If the wood finish is the original (or was restored at some point many moons ago) it is most likely that the varnish is either a traditional natural resin and or oil based mix, thinned by turpentine or mineral spirits (which is the traditional wood finish dating back a few hundred years), but it could also be a nitrocellulose based lacquer which was also used in the 1920s/30s, although primarily for car paint finshes, it was also used for wood... You could of course try the "test an inconspicuous area first" approach with turps and cellulose thinners to see if they soften the finish, which might provide a clue. If I was to hazard a guess though without knowing the vehicle or its history, but knowing how Brits do things, if a process was new, untried and expensive at the time, we would have probably stuck to the old traditional ways....
Good luck with it,
Mark
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