Thanks Kidders
Discussion
Saw some recommendations on here for Kidders, and got in touch with him regarding scratching down the NS corner of my rear bumper that the last owner left.
Excellent guy to deal with and he always replied quickly.
He came over this morning and got to work on my car. Two hours later and the rear bumper is looking as good as new. Must admit that I was slightly dubious about how good a match it was going to be as I'm quite picky over the condition of my car, but it is absolutely perfect!
I'd highly recommend him to anyone who has any small scrapes that need repairing!
James
Excellent guy to deal with and he always replied quickly.
He came over this morning and got to work on my car. Two hours later and the rear bumper is looking as good as new. Must admit that I was slightly dubious about how good a match it was going to be as I'm quite picky over the condition of my car, but it is absolutely perfect!
I'd highly recommend him to anyone who has any small scrapes that need repairing!
James
Kidders said:
I was on the last run!
I only specialise in minor paintwork repairs not full resprays.
At what point does minor paintwork rectification stop - interested as I have some issues to sort on her carI only specialise in minor paintwork repairs not full resprays.
1. wheel arch scabbyness (solid just crusty - I planed to rub back, treat - prime and then send for paint)
2. front wing bubbling both sides (same deal as above)
3. nasty scab on the bonnet
4. small deep scratch on drivers door
5. Rear boot lock lifting paint around it
Post 2000 Bean counter influence/effect on Mercs is to blame
I need to remove headlights/ wheel are liners and boot lock etc to make job easier - would all of the painting be out of scope?
Hi Ian, long time no see, hope you're well. Gareth (Kidders) probably needs to be a little careful answering this, as the mods might start to get a bit tetchy with him. From what I have seen, most if not all of the work that you mention should fall within his scope. What he does is certainly way beyond a smart repair type of job. If you email or text him a photo, he will come back to you with a price.
B'stard Child said:
At what point does minor paintwork rectification stop - interested as I have some issues to sort on her car
1. wheel arch scabbyness (solid just crusty - I planed to rub back, treat - prime and then send for paint)
2. front wing bubbling both sides (same deal as above)
3. nasty scab on the bonnet
4. small deep scratch on drivers door
5. Rear boot lock lifting paint around it
Post 2000 Bean counter influence/effect on Mercs is to blame
I need to remove headlights/ wheel are liners and boot lock etc to make job easier - would all of the painting be out of scope?
The general rule of thumb for me, is to question how long a repair can take. If it takes longer than a day to complete, it's too big! 1. wheel arch scabbyness (solid just crusty - I planed to rub back, treat - prime and then send for paint)
2. front wing bubbling both sides (same deal as above)
3. nasty scab on the bonnet
4. small deep scratch on drivers door
5. Rear boot lock lifting paint around it
Post 2000 Bean counter influence/effect on Mercs is to blame
I need to remove headlights/ wheel are liners and boot lock etc to make job easier - would all of the painting be out of scope?
I've had a lot of experience with rust, I've grown up with Mini's, Maestro's and Montego's as daily drivers! Rust is difficult to treat quickly and the longer you spend, the better chance of success of getting a good and long lasting result.
The products on the market now for treating surface rust are pretty good, but they are time consuming, and I have to be careful what work I take on because if the repair blisters 6 months down the road, it will always come back to me. For that reason alone I tend to avoid it!
I have done quite a few Merc's of the early 2000 era for trade, the scab round the boot lock, wheelarch edges etc and generally the repair has been long lasting, the key factor is time and preperation.
Any panelwork i.e scratches/minor dents is no issue of course, I have no problem painting a door/blending the colour within a reasonable time scale. With rust, as long as its surface, now is the time to treat it as the weather is warmer and drier. If you were to treat the rut ready for paint, I'd have no problem doing this, except to say if the repair blisters in 1 month/6 months/12 months time, its not my fault
There's shouldn't be a problem to complete all the painting listed above within one day, this time of year. I've done more in a day before, put it that way!
Edited by Kidders on Friday 10th May 07:52
Kidders said:
The general rule of thumb for me, is to question how long a repair can take. If it takes longer than a day to complete, it's too big!
I said that about a few patches on a mini - it's been in my garage now for over two years and the weldathon still isn't over!!!
I take your point tho
Kidders said:
I've had a lot of experience with rust, I've grown up with Mini's, Maestro's and Montego's as daily drivers! Rust is difficult to treat quickly and the longer you spend, the better chance of success of getting a good and long lasting result.
The products on the market now for treating surface rust are pretty good, but they are time consuming, and I have to be careful what work I take on because if the repair blisters 6 months down the road, it will always come back to me. For that reason alone I tend to avoid it!
So you wouldn't be happy if I treated and prepared and primed in preparation for paint?The products on the market now for treating surface rust are pretty good, but they are time consuming, and I have to be careful what work I take on because if the repair blisters 6 months down the road, it will always come back to me. For that reason alone I tend to avoid it!
Kidders said:
I have done quite a few Merc's of the early 2000 era for trade, the scab round the boot lock, wheelarch edges etc and generally the repair has been long lasting, the key factor is time and preperation.
OKKidders said:
Any panelwork i.e scratches/minor dents is no issue of course, I have no problem painting a door/blending the colour within a reasonable time scale. With rust, as long as its surface, now is the time to treat it as the weather is warmer and drier. If you were to treat the rut ready for paint, I'd have no problem doing this, except to say if the repair blisters in 1 month/6 months/12 months time, its not my fault
Caveat accepted Kidders said:
There's shouldn't be a problem to complete all the painting listed above within one day, this time of year. I've done more in a day before, put it that way!
OK I think I'll take Slippery's advice and send you some pictures before more paint falls off - interestingly the metal is remarkably solid and I could quite easily 240 grit flap wheel back to bright and shiney without thinning the panel much at all!!
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