Failed MOT :-(

Failed MOT :-(

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Discussion

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Monday 22nd April 2002
quotequote all
My earlier thread about rear wheel noise may actually be front wheel problems! The car failed its MOT today due to the front brakes being out of balance. I did in the end manage to recreate the problem on the road, as I had initial dis-belief of the car being 100% out on its brake balance. I recently had new pads fitted when getting my anti-roll bar problem fixed. In a vain attempt to fix the problem, I refitted the front pads - ensuring to grease the back part of the pads as recommended. Unfortunately this has had little effect. The car still pulls seriously to the left when breaking hard. As a note, when trying to recreate the problem, it did take plenty of hard braking before I was able to recreate the problem. Is this a problem with the right-hand side calliper if the car pulls to the left?

gf350

805 posts

277 months

Monday 22nd April 2002
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Might be a bit obvious but have you bled the brakes properly as if you have some air in the pipe it may be a bit week on that side.

JMorgan

36,010 posts

295 months

Monday 22nd April 2002
quotequote all
Seems logical, correct me if wrong. Sticking calipers? Or air in the system?

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Monday 22nd April 2002
quotequote all
A sticking cappiler would also account for the squeaking noise that went away when pressing my brakes. So is it time to replace the front callipers? I take these things have to be done in pairs. I also take it that it uses the M20 Ford part, as the AP 4 Pot Austin Princess ones are hard to find. I am sure the brakes were bleed properly by Wedge when they did it the other week.

JMorgan

36,010 posts

295 months

Monday 22nd April 2002
quotequote all
Had my new ones from wedge. You can get seal kits, you know strip them down etc but I opted for new. Best find out whats causing it though before spending too much money and going off at a tangent.

Brm Brm

217 posts

285 months

Monday 22nd April 2002
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If you have had work done on them recently and they were OK before, then I would definitely bleed again using a pressure bleed kit. My own experience is that it can be v'difficult to get all the air out on some wedges and you sometimes need more than one go.

I would also suggest upgrading to the AP 4 pots if you need to replace as they do offer a significant improvement over the standard 350 items.

Best of Luck!

shpub

8,507 posts

283 months

Tuesday 23rd April 2002
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You may also need to replace the pistons as well as the seals if the calliper is leaking which is another problem that can cause the symptoms you are seeing. Very often can be hidden by brake dust. All you need is a small weep and you get this problem.

Standard callipers are Granada. The uprated ones are from a Granada estate (vented discs) and the four pots are not only difficult to find but may not match up with the disc diameter/offset.

Suspension problems can also cause pulling to one side but as the MOT test is normally done on rollers I don't think this is the problem.

Steve

SEVANS

1,165 posts

278 months

Wednesday 24th April 2002
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You can't fit the Princess calipers with your existing disks, as the offset will be wrong, not to mention the disk diameter.
The disks used on the 420/450 with the princess caliper is a special AP disk. These are expensive new and hard to find second hand. You will also need two sets of spacers per caliper to get them wide enough to fit the disk.
They do fit in a standard 14" wheel though.
You can still get hold of the calipers have a look at the RS owners website if you are interested there are lots of parts on the bulletin board. I have done this upgrade so if you want more info let me know.
Regards

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Thursday 25th April 2002
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The story continues... I have replaced the calliper and still the brakes are pulling to the left. The brakes have been bled too. Should I look at the master brake cyclinder next? What type of steel braided flex does the brakes use? - Just in case I need to replace that next?

JMorgan

36,010 posts

295 months

Thursday 25th April 2002
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Penninsular did mine. Worth a call?

shpub

8,507 posts

283 months

Thursday 25th April 2002
quotequote all
This could be a suspension problem like a loose tie rod, loose ball joint causing one side to move and thus cause the car to pull to one side.

Steve

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Thursday 25th April 2002
quotequote all
I might have to look at other options like a tie rode. The next things on the list are:

1. Replace the flex (MKV Cortina)
2. Replace the copper pipes (may be blocked)
3. Change the calliper on the other side

The master cylinder doesn't seem to be the problem. Swapped the pipes around and still got the same problem.

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Monday 29th April 2002
quotequote all
I have replaced the flex and this has sorted the problem.

The car still pulls to one side even though I have had the wheels aligned. Does this point towards the geomtry of the car being out? If so how much am I looking at to get the car re-aligned.

shpub

8,507 posts

283 months

Monday 29th April 2002
quotequote all
I repeat...

This could be a suspension problem like a loose tie rod, loose ball joint causing one side to move and thus cause the car to pull to one side.

Had this once when sprinting. Tightened up the tie rod and pulling went away. Braking puts more stress on the suspension components than normal jack up and try to move testing will do and it is possible that something has just enough movement in it to cause the pulling.

Steve

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Monday 29th April 2002
quotequote all
Sorry I should have filled in all the details in the previous posting. Thanks for the earlier advice Steve, I did check the tie rod and ball joint but both seem to be okay. I think this problem could be historic because the car had a new clutch fitted many moons ago with DH TVR and the method used to replace the clutch was to cut the chassis and then weld back. At this point you all cringe, I reckon this could be the root of all evils! Has anyone else experienced problems with the chassis being cut and re-welded?

gf350

805 posts

277 months

Monday 29th April 2002
quotequote all
Dave,
Which bit of the chassis did they cut? I want to check the same has not been done to mine. I have had a look underneath and can't see any evedence of this and the plastic coating all seems in tact around the welds.

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Monday 29th April 2002
quotequote all
Well there is that much waxoyl around it I can't tell but I had the clutch changed recently and shopped about for quotes. In the end I went for a professional job at Wedge Auto which involved taking the engine out. When looking back through the history of my car I noticed that DH TVR had replaced the clutch previously. The invoice reflected a reasonable priced bill and not many man-hours charged for the work. I called DH TVR to inquire about their method, at which point a salesman told me about cutting the chassis to fit the clutch. He then told me this was the factory recommended method....nice!

shpub

8,507 posts

283 months

Monday 29th April 2002
quotequote all
It's not... because the chassis can distort if you are not careful. The 520 was modded by Tower View and they fitted the new support cradle and bracing in place before cutting.

It could be that the chassis is distorted but pulling to one side can be caused by road camber as well as other things. The geometry could be out even though it has been aligned. It could even be a problem with the rear of the car e.g. handbrake or something. Sticky pistons, callipers and pads can also be a culprits as well.

Steve

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

279 months

Tuesday 30th April 2002
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I reckon I will just live with it and add to the character of the car.

tcpc

166 posts

269 months

Saturday 15th February 2003
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hi,

just reading one off your old post and had the same problem off pulling to one side when braking

i renewed the rear wheel bearing on the side it was pulling (near side in my case)and solved the proplem