lifting body off 280 fhc 1988 model

[denys1]

where do i jack the body up from

[johnadams]

I have an early 280 and decided to split it to do a proper chassis job.

I jacked it up with some wooden strips just under and in front of the door.

Also at the back on the fibre glass. I got no nasty noises.

I have created a 3 inch gap and am just thinking on how to get it further. I recon on putting two poles of some type through the wheel arches and using them to lift it further.

I think you may be better listening to someone elses advice but I cant see a better way than doing the pole method.

I will be very interested in anyone elses suggestions.
as I have spent a long time thinking about this and am about to bit the bullet.

[Wedg1e]

If TVR made the Wedge shells in the same way as some kit car makers have, there's a good chance they left the 'webs' across the doorways for stiffness until the shell was on the chassis. We built a Merlin kit in '82 and the shell flexed like hell once we'd cut the doorways out. Bad planning you see. We had 6 people lifting it and you could hear some noises! Scary. From my knowledge of the Tasmins, I'd say leave the doors on, with the 'A' and 'B' pillar reinforcing tubes still in. That way the doors will brace the shell for you. I know it adds weight....

W.

[gf350]

I'm trying to take the body off my 350 conv. do you have a list of all the things you have disconnected to get this far as I don't want to miss anything!!

[johnadams]

I managed to lift the body off with a load of bricks and the two wooden beams. I made two piles of bricks next to each wheel with a gap between them and used this gap to put a jack in jacked in it. I then jacked it up one brick layer at a time. I put a thin layer of sand between each brick and this stopped it from rocking.

I will document this process as it was easier than organising 6 people who may all want favours in return.

Then just pull chassis out from underneath.