Help! 400se exhaust
Discussion
Help!
My 400se has a stainless steel exhaust system, but its started blowing.
Close investigation reveales that the joint between the manifold down pipe and the system proper (ie, ahead of the middle (only) silencer) on the passenger side is the cause. It seemed to be blowing from inside the flange thingy that holds it together, I didn't think it would be a problem but when I split the joint to reseal it I found that the flaired bit on the down pipe where it mates onto the next pipe had corroded and part had broken off. It will not reseal!
It looks like its all one unit including the headers. Does this mean I need a whole new manifold/header pipe on that side, or can it be repaired?
Who could repair it?
How much?
If not repaired, replacement source?
Cost?
Any help with info greatfully received. My Tiv sounds like a tractor now!
Andy 400se, fearing a big bill!
I might be barking up a tree on Mars but could you get someone to cut off a section of the down pipe and weld a new bit on with the correct bits? Have to be spot on with measuring. I am getting a service with DJE in Nuneaton on Thurs next and he has recomended a guy in Nottingham for exhausts (seeing his work and driving it I assume he wouldn't recommend him if he's crap) will ask where if its any use. I tried sealant bandage on my old 350 for a join that would not seal and it kept blowing out so that might not be a good idea.
There is Custom Chrome in Nuneaton, they do ad hoc stuff on site though you will probably have to take it there.
>> Edited by JMorgan on Sunday 7th April 23:56
There is Custom Chrome in Nuneaton, they do ad hoc stuff on site though you will probably have to take it there.
>> Edited by JMorgan on Sunday 7th April 23:56
Oh 
!
Had the header repaired this week and went to collect it today. When I got there and started it to come home there was the unmistakable "tick" noise of a leaky exhaust. Yup, the other side leaks now! Had to leave it for that to be sorted out. No Tiv for the weekend!
Plus, since I didn't have to replace the header I had decided to have the chassis treated - It's only money after all! Now I'm overspent!
Andy and no 400se
! Had the header repaired this week and went to collect it today. When I got there and started it to come home there was the unmistakable "tick" noise of a leaky exhaust. Yup, the other side leaks now! Had to leave it for that to be sorted out. No Tiv for the weekend!
Plus, since I didn't have to replace the header I had decided to have the chassis treated - It's only money after all! Now I'm overspent!
Andy and no 400se
On my car there's a stainless steel system...well almost! The manifolds are fabbed in mild steel, then at the bottom 'straight' length of each, they've been cut and welded to 2 short lengths of stainless that extend to the flanges just in front of the silencer. Then the remainder of the system is s/s.
Alas the mild steel sections are suffering; they've both already had patches. Whilst the engine is out I'm planning on some more effective repair work (i.e bigger patches!!) as the access is a bit chewy once the pipework is on the car. Tricky bit is avoiding heat distortion that means the flanges won't line up once back on! Probably weld a length of angle across the curve to keep things right. I could splash out on new manifolds of course, but you know how it is...;-)
W.
Alas the mild steel sections are suffering; they've both already had patches. Whilst the engine is out I'm planning on some more effective repair work (i.e bigger patches!!) as the access is a bit chewy once the pipework is on the car. Tricky bit is avoiding heat distortion that means the flanges won't line up once back on! Probably weld a length of angle across the curve to keep things right. I could splash out on new manifolds of course, but you know how it is...;-)
W.
Response on 400SE exhaust flange. Only way to fix is to cut off flange and find one on a pipe of similair diameter and weld on - probably quicker, safer and easier to buy the whole header. Sources recomended - David Gerald TVR in Inkberrow, Worcestershire. Talk to John or Doug - great guys and V. Helpfull.
GW
GW
Another fix is something I've done to mine just to get it to seal properly but it should help you out as well. Find a short length of pipe (approx 4") the next Ø down so that it is a snug fit inside your header and silencer pipes, weld the steel olive around the outside of the pipe in the middle. This piece then slips inside both pipes and clamps up on the olive. If you've got the size right then it won't need any paste and should seal until its taken apart, also the reduction in pipe area is v. small so it won't hurt power output.
Matt
Matt
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