Help! Stuck headlamp.
Discussion
It must be me! Every time I drive the car something happens! Arhhh! The offside headlamp pod has become stuck half up. The headlamp still works and I checked the fuse, which is okay. The next thing I did was to try the manual knob. This works fine on the nearside but seems to have seized on the offside. Does this mean the motor has burnt out or is there another explanation. The motor is a Lucas TR7 job (according to the Wedge Bible) - can these still be bought? Or am I going to have real problems getting this sorted?
Hi Dave,
I have an article on Wedge headlights on the Wedge Website. Please give it a look (under the maintenance tab).
The motors can be bought from most TR7 breakers.
Cheers
Mike
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
I have an article on Wedge headlights on the Wedge Website. Please give it a look (under the maintenance tab).
The motors can be bought from most TR7 breakers.
Cheers
Mike
www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk
If the manual unit don't turn then it is possible that the motor has burnt out and you will be in for much cursing and knashing as you need to get the pod up to get access to the bits and so on.
It could be as simple as a pivot bolt going adrift or a stuck rose joint on the linkage. Might be worth a good spray with WD40 before struggling to get at the bolt that attaches the link to the pod. May need to bring back child slavery as access is restricted.
I have had only one case of a stuck pod and that was due to a pivot bolt falling out and jamming the pod.
Yes the motor is a TR7 jobbie. 20 pnds last time I bought one from my scrappy.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
It could be as simple as a pivot bolt going adrift or a stuck rose joint on the linkage. Might be worth a good spray with WD40 before struggling to get at the bolt that attaches the link to the pod. May need to bring back child slavery as access is restricted.
I have had only one case of a stuck pod and that was due to a pivot bolt falling out and jamming the pod.
Yes the motor is a TR7 jobbie. 20 pnds last time I bought one from my scrappy.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Cheshire's favourite TVR dealer quoted me £100 for a replacement motor
- a quick phone call to a Triumph TR7 specialist got me the headlamp motor for £15. Next question - once the headlamp is out of the pod, how easy is it to replace the motor. Is the motor easily removed and replaced?
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A Doddle, Once you've managed to get the headlamp pod up and then out. There's only two simple pivot bolts attaching the Pod to the Bodywork,( and once that is out the way you will discover TVR's extremely sophisticated Pod stop bracket assembly!L.O.L.)
The Motor is attached at the rear of the Pod aperture with three our four (Can't remember) Screws/bolts. and Only the adjustable actuating rod and wiring connector remains to be removed.PS if you need a new or reconditioned Motor you can order them from Rimmer Bros. a Triumph/BL specialist - check out their website , it's very good . PPS Steve Heaths Book is very helpful on this subject.
The Motor is attached at the rear of the Pod aperture with three our four (Can't remember) Screws/bolts. and Only the adjustable actuating rod and wiring connector remains to be removed.PS if you need a new or reconditioned Motor you can order them from Rimmer Bros. a Triumph/BL specialist - check out their website , it's very good . PPS Steve Heaths Book is very helpful on this subject.
quote:
After speaking with people and reading the wedge book it seems as if the only tricky bit is the removing of the pod. Is it possible to replace the motor by just removing the headlamp and not the whole pod unit. Cheers, Dave.
No! Take the pod out to give you better access. It is only two bolts. Don't forget to loctite/lockwire them.
Steve
quote:
All sounds good so far but... if the pod is only 3/4 of the way up how do i get at all the screws? The manual knob won't turn and its hit or miss if I'll be able to get the headlamp out of the pod. What happens in this circumstance?
You sell the car!
In these cases it will be a case of improvisation. Try taking the headlamp out. If that doesn't work then the linkage might be a good way. Failing that it might take cutting the pod to free the linkage and then repairing afterwards.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
just a thought - one of my motors needed to have the manual knob pushed up to engage it before it would work, it was also on a spring which made it tricky with one hand through the inspection hole. Also i have changed my head light motor many times with outtaking the pod out - no problem - the only thing is check the new motor by taking it to bits checking the contacts and making sure the cover plate is well silicon sealanted on, i had three motors from rimmer bros at £45 each all for the same side and none of them worked, i ended up thinking it was a wiring problem an left it up for a year, in the end i decided to get to the bottom fo it, took the motor to bits and discovered the most miss shapen contact with blobs of solder on it - and water all inside, i cleaned it down made a new contact from cupro-nickel (copper would probably do) and sealed it all back up and its worked for the last year and a half with no probs - touch wood.
Just finished the job! Turned out that it was a problem with the crank arm getting jammed onto the side of the pod. Re-aligned all the parts and oiled them. Lights now working well again. Thanks for all your help guys - it gave me the nerve to tackle the job myself. (still pretty new to all this stuff!)
Cheers, Dave!
Cheers, Dave!
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