Suspension/steering geometry on my 280
Discussion
Hi all,
Just replaced both UJs on the nearside drive-shaft at the weekend and decided to turn my attention to the front as both tyres are wearing on the outside quite badly (the rest of the tyre is very good!).
I jacked it up and vigorously wiggled various bits of the steering/suspension to see if there was any play.
I could not find anything worn or loose, so my question is this: assuming everything else is OK, is it just the tracking that could be responsible for the tyre wear, or is there something I'm missing.
I had the tracking adjusted mid last year (the car hasn't been used much since then) and the wear seemed to have occured all of a sudden since that time. What should the 'toe-in' be? (I quoted the figures to the guy who adjusted it as per the TVR owners manual).
Just replaced both UJs on the nearside drive-shaft at the weekend and decided to turn my attention to the front as both tyres are wearing on the outside quite badly (the rest of the tyre is very good!).
I jacked it up and vigorously wiggled various bits of the steering/suspension to see if there was any play.
I could not find anything worn or loose, so my question is this: assuming everything else is OK, is it just the tracking that could be responsible for the tyre wear, or is there something I'm missing.
I had the tracking adjusted mid last year (the car hasn't been used much since then) and the wear seemed to have occured all of a sudden since that time. What should the 'toe-in' be? (I quoted the figures to the guy who adjusted it as per the TVR owners manual).
Hi Steve,
There's caster,camber and alingment (toe in)
Caster is 3.5 +/- .5 degrees
Camber is 0 +/- .5 gegrees (Not adjustable)
Toe-in is 1/8th inch
Check shocks and tyre pressure they can do in a set of tyres pretty quick.
Let's hope it's just a bit too much air in those fronts.
Jeff
There's caster,camber and alingment (toe in)
Caster is 3.5 +/- .5 degrees
Camber is 0 +/- .5 gegrees (Not adjustable)
Toe-in is 1/8th inch
Check shocks and tyre pressure they can do in a set of tyres pretty quick.
Let's hope it's just a bit too much air in those fronts.
Jeff
Cheers Jeff (once again!!)
Just been out to 'play' this evening and, apart from the offside near tyre appearing to have a slow puncture (this is the one thats worn the most), there is a small amount of play in both wheel bearings (again offside is worse). Could this account for the wear? I've adjusted the offside bearing, but got a bit of a problem with the nearside one cos the damn lock nut has burred where the pins locate and so I can't get the wheel off. Still, this is obviously a common problem cos Steve Heaths 'bible' suggests using araldite to glue the key in when this occurs. I'll give it a go at the weekend. (I'm hoping some day soon I might actually be able to drive the thing at the weekend!!!
)
Just read your response to TVR-NUT's "speedo" thread. Where abouts in Essex do you hail from? I'm an Essex boy too! (said with perhaps a little too much pride?!?)
Just been out to 'play' this evening and, apart from the offside near tyre appearing to have a slow puncture (this is the one thats worn the most), there is a small amount of play in both wheel bearings (again offside is worse). Could this account for the wear? I've adjusted the offside bearing, but got a bit of a problem with the nearside one cos the damn lock nut has burred where the pins locate and so I can't get the wheel off. Still, this is obviously a common problem cos Steve Heaths 'bible' suggests using araldite to glue the key in when this occurs. I'll give it a go at the weekend. (I'm hoping some day soon I might actually be able to drive the thing at the weekend!!!
) Just read your response to TVR-NUT's "speedo" thread. Where abouts in Essex do you hail from? I'm an Essex boy too! (said with perhaps a little too much pride?!?)
Steve,
Danny is correct.
"Tork um up" whilst spinning the wheel then back off a bit.
I'll look in the book for the ft lbs but it's about 20.
I'm ex of Buckhurst Hill and I was "last known abode" in Thorpe Bay. Still have a lot of friends there. If you're ever in the Buckhurst Hill area pop into Rocco's Wine Bar he may remember me.
Jeff
Danny is correct.
"Tork um up" whilst spinning the wheel then back off a bit.
I'll look in the book for the ft lbs but it's about 20.
I'm ex of Buckhurst Hill and I was "last known abode" in Thorpe Bay. Still have a lot of friends there. If you're ever in the Buckhurst Hill area pop into Rocco's Wine Bar he may remember me.
Jeff
Don't just torque them up and back them off a bit. I did this and both front wheel bearings failed within 2 months. There has to be a lot of play to take up the difference in expansion rates between the stub axle and the hub. I wrote off one stub axle and two hubs because of the problems. They are supposed to be adjusted with 1 to 5 thou clearance not just free running.
"tighten up to 27 ft/lb whilst rotating then either back the nut off 90 degrees or 1 to 5 though end float." - from the Heynes Granada book.
No problems since I adjusted mine like this (about 20K miles).
This applies to a '85 390SE with vented single piston caliper Granada Ghia brakes.
Russ
"tighten up to 27 ft/lb whilst rotating then either back the nut off 90 degrees or 1 to 5 though end float." - from the Heynes Granada book.
No problems since I adjusted mine like this (about 20K miles).
This applies to a '85 390SE with vented single piston caliper Granada Ghia brakes.
Russ
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