Chassis Protection
Discussion
As I was lying under my TVR (like you do!) I noticed surface-rust on many of the chassis tubes. I intend to keep my 350i indefinitely so I want to protect the chassis with some form of rust-proofing treatment. Also, some of the outriggers will need replacing as a local garage dented them when they decided they would make a nice jacking-point!
Who would you recommend to do this sort of work and what is the likely cost? I'm in Lancashire but will travel.
ADVthanxalotANCE
>>> Edited by Ian B on Friday 21st March 21:40
Who would you recommend to do this sort of work and what is the likely cost? I'm in Lancashire but will travel.
ADVthanxalotANCE
>>> Edited by Ian B on Friday 21st March 21:40
RT Racing (Wedge Automotive) advertise a 'full chassis treatment'. They are in Sheffield. I, on the other hand, am in Hampshire so I will be painting my own with Epoxy Mastic. I can give you their number, the stuff was developed for painiting oil rigs.... It bonds to the metal. They also do a rust killer.
I am just about to get the sills off and make a start with the outriggers and new high pressure fuel lines.
If anyone else reads this, the bible states that the captive bolts for the sills are inside the footwell and inside the seat belt covers. I can see the rear bolts, anyone be a bit more accurate about the fronts?
>> Edited by Pettsie on Friday 21st March 22:02
I am just about to get the sills off and make a start with the outriggers and new high pressure fuel lines.
If anyone else reads this, the bible states that the captive bolts for the sills are inside the footwell and inside the seat belt covers. I can see the rear bolts, anyone be a bit more accurate about the fronts?
>> Edited by Pettsie on Friday 21st March 22:02
Well, you should find two in line with the A-pillar (if I got them the right way round) Strip of metal running down in line with the front of the door. Another two 5 inches back from this and 2 more 8 inches further forward.
Once you remove the sill cover it will all become clear where they are. You won't have to remove much interior trim if you're lucky enough to have such a thing :-)
Good luck, I had fun :-)
Once you remove the sill cover it will all become clear where they are. You won't have to remove much interior trim if you're lucky enough to have such a thing :-)
Good luck, I had fun :-)
Pettsie said: RT Racing (Wedge Automotive) advertise a 'full chassis treatment'. They are in Sheffield. I, on the other hand, am in Hampshire so I will be painting my own with Epoxy Mastic. I can give you their number, the stuff was developed for painiting oil rigs.... It bonds to the metal. They also do a rust killer.
I am just about to get the sills off and make a start with the outriggers and new high pressure fuel lines.
If anyone else reads this, the bible states that the captive bolts for the sills are inside the footwell and inside the seat belt covers. I can see the rear bolts, anyone be a bit more accurate about the fronts?
>> Edited by Pettsie on Friday 21st March 22:02
Mine had only one bolt at the front, it was 15cm forward of the door, If you take the door seal rubber off and pull up the carpet and foam you will see a horizontal ledge with a rusty bolt on it.
You will also have to drill out a row of rivets along the top of the sill (visible under the door rubber)
and 2 blocks of rivets under the sill which attaches the sill cover to the underside of the body via an alloy bracket.
When you have got all that off you will probably find the cover is 'glued' to the car with the rubber stuff that they use to stick the windscreen in.
It sounds like a bit of a nighmare but its well worth doing, you might find its not too bad under there, mine was fine bar a bit of surface rust in places with most of the plactic coating in place.
I used some poly x sanding disks (from Halfords) which attatch to a drill to strip it all back to shiny metal than Hamerite KURUST, then rust inhibiting primer then lots of Hammerite, I plan to cover with underseal before the covers go back on.
Result = No rust ever again I hope.
Gareth.
IMHO Waxoyl is a good product IF your treating a rust-free chassis. I think perhaps it traps corrosion to do further damage if left too long. I used 3M sponge buffs on a drill motor to knock of some flaking paint and surface rust on the lower A-arms and behind the front wheel where the chassis is exposed to the road grime. Masked and primed the areas, and painted with Hammerite Glanzend Rot (German for Gloss red). The color is a pretty close match, and Hammerite is an extremely high quality, durable paint.
Shawn
Shawn
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