Discussion
Having now discovered that cooling can be an issue with a wedge (on the way back from PH5), and given that mine is a modded engine I am wondering about uprating to a twin cooling fan system. The bible says this was standard on some wedges - any ideas how easy an upgrade might be and whether the twin fans are a TVR specific part?
Changed to twin fans last month, when they come on takes about 45 seconds to go from around high 90s to 80 degrees, a big improvement. With the override switch i can have both on or only one. Picked them up at a car show at Brooklands for £50. Took off the bonnet, unbolted the old single fan, dropped in the twin unit and it fixes to the rad with heat resistant cable-ties. All done with bonnet back on in around hour and a half!!
Temp needle rose quickly (beyond 90 degrees) on 2 occasions, after driving at 30-50, not static traffic though. I have considered whether this is a dodgy guage as after shutting it down for a while and starting again it was ok.
Suppose process of elimination should start with flushing system, checking hoses, thermostat etc...Seen a lenghty thread elsewhere on PH on cooling and it all got a bit complicated!
Suppose process of elimination should start with flushing system, checking hoses, thermostat etc...Seen a lenghty thread elsewhere on PH on cooling and it all got a bit complicated!
Never had the slightest cooling problems with the 350. In five years the needle ran rock steady, 82 in winter and never ever went above 84 in summer. Ram air was always sufficient on the move, Cooling fan (yes only one) only came on when stood and cut out again after about 40 secs.
I did flush the system and change the coolant every 2 years to keep things clean though.
I would look at the rad, as cross flows are notorious for partially blocking and you can't always tell just by flushing them out. They look an absolute pig to get out of that nosecone, so most people will only delve in if they leak and absolutely have to replace them. I'm told the rad is a modified vitesse unit with a longer neck on the outlet. If you go for a recore, don't tell them it's off a TVR or they'll sting you for an extra £50. Robbing ********.
By the way D type with solid fin matrixes are far more efficient than the cheaper concertina fin type.
I did flush the system and change the coolant every 2 years to keep things clean though.
I would look at the rad, as cross flows are notorious for partially blocking and you can't always tell just by flushing them out. They look an absolute pig to get out of that nosecone, so most people will only delve in if they leak and absolutely have to replace them. I'm told the rad is a modified vitesse unit with a longer neck on the outlet. If you go for a recore, don't tell them it's off a TVR or they'll sting you for an extra £50. Robbing ********.
By the way D type with solid fin matrixes are far more efficient than the cheaper concertina fin type.
My 350 used to behave like bobble's.
On 90 degree bit, I have been advised on mine to stop sharpish if the gauge shows no slowing going north of 90 even with the fan on, warped head territory apparantly?
As for removing the rad, it was fiddly rather than a pain. The biggest gripe was coppying the botched TVR original securing botched thingies, well it was on mine.
The fan override is good to have. Couple of lucars, several feet of wire and a switch.
Gaz666 any more info on them fans..
On 90 degree bit, I have been advised on mine to stop sharpish if the gauge shows no slowing going north of 90 even with the fan on, warped head territory apparantly?
As for removing the rad, it was fiddly rather than a pain. The biggest gripe was coppying the botched TVR original securing botched thingies, well it was on mine.
The fan override is good to have. Couple of lucars, several feet of wire and a switch.
Gaz666 any more info on them fans..
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