Discussion
Is it possible to successfully waxoyl the chassis with the car just on axle stands or is this a job normally done with the body removed ? Do wedges suffer from much chassis corrosion and if so where are the main areas for concern ? Any tips , tricks, advice offered gratefully appreciated.
Outriggers hidden by the sills and behind the front wheels (where it gets shot blasted by gravel), High up over the diff. Thats where I had to keep a look out on my 350, and anywhere where the plastic had come away, bubbled. Not sure about waxoil. I think also someone on a thread has said to mix with white spirit, not sure of the ratio (or white spirit) for a better application. Try a search on all forums for it.
Edited by jmorgan on Friday 28th September 13:02
Recently had my chassis "rebuilt" by Peninsula - had gone behind both front wheels and outriggers, waxoyl was applied after the body had gone back on? and seemed to cover ok. Expect a bit of "burn off" coming into the cockpit from the exhaust when you run the car. Definitely worth doing as often as is deemed necessary to avoid costly repair. Unfortunate if the one you bought passed an inspection and still had the problem, as was in my case - not a lot else you can do.
I decided to 'unzip' my sill covers for an exploratory look last summer, as you can only see the bottom of the tubes with them on.
Very glad I did as although the rust wasn't yet serious enough to warrent cutting metal. There was no way I'd have been able to sucessfully treat the area with the covers on.
As it was , neutralise rust with Dinitrol or similar, Hammerite paint over top, then lots of black waxoyl underseal over that. Basically jumpo on the damn stuff as soon as it appears with a bit of paint and everything should be fine.
Matt
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