Discussion
Hi all,
Can anyone tell me, other than the coldstart injector and thermotime switch, is the bimetallic strip/heater element in the Warm up regulator on my 280 the only component that is responsible for controlling the amount of fuel delivered, based on the temperature??? Damn thing still aint running right!
Cheers,
Steve.
Can anyone tell me, other than the coldstart injector and thermotime switch, is the bimetallic strip/heater element in the Warm up regulator on my 280 the only component that is responsible for controlling the amount of fuel delivered, based on the temperature??? Damn thing still aint running right!
Cheers,
Steve.
Racks memory....
I think you're correct in what you say. The warm-up reg does have a bimetallic that pulls the diaphragm valve (open or closed, I forget which!). Also, some versions have a vaccuum take-off that goes to the plenum chamber. I did strip one of these regs once but never figured out exactly what it was doing, or whether it was faulty. Everything that you could measure looked right, everything that could move did so, and what was left I cleaned up and resealed! I did notice some dirt in the fine mesh filter in one of the fuel connections that I cleaned out, but it didn't make any difference.
The biggest cause of trouble with the Bosch constant-dribble (sorry, K-Jet) is air leaks. There are a lot of places that can leak that you may not think of, and the vacuum at idle can pull air through gaps you'd never imagine were there. Have you tried spraying Easy-start or similar around the place to see whether it makes any difference to the idle?
I spent 5 years randomly trying things on my Tasmin but although I never found anything 'wrong' with the FI, neither was I happy that it was all as it should be. I even rigged up a pressure gauge and a ball valve per the Ford/TVR diagnostics; this showed everything was within spec.
What's your trouble again?
Ian
I think you're correct in what you say. The warm-up reg does have a bimetallic that pulls the diaphragm valve (open or closed, I forget which!). Also, some versions have a vaccuum take-off that goes to the plenum chamber. I did strip one of these regs once but never figured out exactly what it was doing, or whether it was faulty. Everything that you could measure looked right, everything that could move did so, and what was left I cleaned up and resealed! I did notice some dirt in the fine mesh filter in one of the fuel connections that I cleaned out, but it didn't make any difference.
The biggest cause of trouble with the Bosch constant-dribble (sorry, K-Jet) is air leaks. There are a lot of places that can leak that you may not think of, and the vacuum at idle can pull air through gaps you'd never imagine were there. Have you tried spraying Easy-start or similar around the place to see whether it makes any difference to the idle?
I spent 5 years randomly trying things on my Tasmin but although I never found anything 'wrong' with the FI, neither was I happy that it was all as it should be. I even rigged up a pressure gauge and a ball valve per the Ford/TVR diagnostics; this showed everything was within spec.
What's your trouble again?
Ian
Thanks Ian,
The problem is, it won't tick over once it gets warm, and then won't start again. all plugs are soaking wet on inspection, so I think its over-fuelling. Have so far changed and/or checked: Cold start injector, Cold start relay, thermotime switch, Aux air device, air and fuel filters. Next on the list was gonna be the WUR. What d'ya reckon?? Oh yeah, is there anything (electrical)in the air flow meter thingy that could fail causing overfuelling? The actual mechanics of it, i.e. the moving plate, all seem OK.
Cheers,
Steve.
The problem is, it won't tick over once it gets warm, and then won't start again. all plugs are soaking wet on inspection, so I think its over-fuelling. Have so far changed and/or checked: Cold start injector, Cold start relay, thermotime switch, Aux air device, air and fuel filters. Next on the list was gonna be the WUR. What d'ya reckon?? Oh yeah, is there anything (electrical)in the air flow meter thingy that could fail causing overfuelling? The actual mechanics of it, i.e. the moving plate, all seem OK.
Cheers,
Steve.
The water temp sensor is on the V8. I think there were some later K-Jets that acquired extra bits of circuitry, but the system as fitted to the Tasmins should run with almost no electrical power (apart from the pump, of course!).
The airflow meter simply lifts a piston to alter the fuel delivery as airflow changes. The only electrical bit in there is the safety switch (and not all versions had that anyway!). If you unplug it the fuel pump should run all the time with the ignition on(useful for pressure testing).
I assume you've checked the main and system pressures?
The other thing that occurs is maybe it's not fuel at all but a thermally-intermittent electrical component.
Ian
The airflow meter simply lifts a piston to alter the fuel delivery as airflow changes. The only electrical bit in there is the safety switch (and not all versions had that anyway!). If you unplug it the fuel pump should run all the time with the ignition on(useful for pressure testing).
I assume you've checked the main and system pressures?
The other thing that occurs is maybe it's not fuel at all but a thermally-intermittent electrical component.
Ian
Thanks Ian,
Yeah pressures all seem ok. Would not an electrical fault be present,and have an affect when revving? he thing is at anything above 1600rpm, it sounds sweet, doesnt miss or anything (Conducive to the extra air being allowed in by the throttle being open thus weakening the mixture??), its just when it drops down to about 900rpm. Then it keeps on dropping until it cuts out. The WUR is only about 50quid from Ford, so I'm thinking of taking the plunge, on the basis there isn't much left to check or change.
Steve.
Yeah pressures all seem ok. Would not an electrical fault be present,and have an affect when revving? he thing is at anything above 1600rpm, it sounds sweet, doesnt miss or anything (Conducive to the extra air being allowed in by the throttle being open thus weakening the mixture??), its just when it drops down to about 900rpm. Then it keeps on dropping until it cuts out. The WUR is only about 50quid from Ford, so I'm thinking of taking the plunge, on the basis there isn't much left to check or change.
Steve.
Check out
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html
for lots of useful CIS info (just ignore the minor detail the engine is in the wrong place!)
There are various minor differences but the principle is the same.
Danny
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html
for lots of useful CIS info (just ignore the minor detail the engine is in the wrong place!)
There are various minor differences but the principle is the same.
Danny
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