Warm up regulator on my 280
Discussion
Hi all,
Has anyone ever had any problems with this part? My 280 will not tick over when warm and, once its cut out, it won't start again (too much fuel???). I've already checked and/or replaced the following: Cold start Valve, Auxillary air device, Fuel Filter, Cold start relay, Thermo-time switch, all hoses etc, plugs and leads are fine (all sparking ok). Could the warm up regulator be the culprit? There is definately too much fuel being injected because, once the car's cut out, I've checked the plugs and they're soaking wet.
Any other ideas would be gratefully received.
Thanks,
Steve.
Has anyone ever had any problems with this part? My 280 will not tick over when warm and, once its cut out, it won't start again (too much fuel???). I've already checked and/or replaced the following: Cold start Valve, Auxillary air device, Fuel Filter, Cold start relay, Thermo-time switch, all hoses etc, plugs and leads are fine (all sparking ok). Could the warm up regulator be the culprit? There is definately too much fuel being injected because, once the car's cut out, I've checked the plugs and they're soaking wet.
Any other ideas would be gratefully received.
Thanks,
Steve.
Assuming you have CIS, which I think you do, it sounds like the WUR, if it is definately all plugs that are wet. If only 1 or more, it could be weeping injectors (pull them all, point them into jars and hot wire the fuel pump - no fuel should leak) or a prob with the fuel distributor (unlikely although this is what was has grounded my 911)
Check out
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIShome.html
for some useful CIS info.
Danny
Check out
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIShome.html
for some useful CIS info.
Danny
Hi Jeff,
I actually clamped the tube whilst still attached to crudely block the aux air device (in case it wasn't working) and the idle screw still made no difference, and it still wouldn't tick over either. Do you know if there is a more scientific way of getting the engine analysed for faults or, if I took it to a garage, would they have to resort to the same hit and miss approach that I have been using?
Steve.
I actually clamped the tube whilst still attached to crudely block the aux air device (in case it wasn't working) and the idle screw still made no difference, and it still wouldn't tick over either. Do you know if there is a more scientific way of getting the engine analysed for faults or, if I took it to a garage, would they have to resort to the same hit and miss approach that I have been using?
Steve.
quite possibly the warm up regulator although they usually fail the other way ie hinders cold starting and ok when warm. it works by reducing the fuel pressure above the metering valve so the air flap moves further for any given airflow and increases the fuelling - you need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to read the pressure above the metering head, f you have one with a bleed on it you can set the correct pressure and see if that cures it. beware, they are expensive items though and it's best to use the XR4i version rather than the capri / granada 2.8 version cos it has the part throttle economy vacum pipe and doesn't weaken off the high rev mixture like the earlier version does.
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