Oil pressure light....
Discussion
In this cold weather,when the engine fires up the oil pressure light takes about 3-4 secs to go out. Does anyone know if i should get my wallet out or is it safe to put my feet up and have a beer. When should it go out, or is this ok?
Doesn't sound very encouraging, the oil warning light sender is close to the pump so I would have thought it would 'see' the oil pressure some time before the oil has got round the rest of the engine. Mine goes out within a second of starting to crank the engine i.e. it goes out pretty much as the engine fires up.
Doesnt sound too bad to me if you have a remote filter, especially if your cold idle on start up is low (like mine)- with a remote filter and about 100yards of hose to an oil cooler mine takes several seconds to go out - and thats with a new oil pump albeit with no oil thermostat in the line at the moment). (Tim - before you ask the the accusump has expired!)
The sender is actually on the oil pump cover itself but I think its on the inlet side so is measuring "worst case" oil pressure - I'm sure somebody will tell me I'm talking out of my a... again if I'm wrong! (Steve?)
I'm about to fit an alloy rad and reposition the oil cooler with much shorter hoses so it will be interesting to see if it helps the response time.
The sender is actually on the oil pump cover itself but I think its on the inlet side so is measuring "worst case" oil pressure - I'm sure somebody will tell me I'm talking out of my a... again if I'm wrong! (Steve?)
I'm about to fit an alloy rad and reposition the oil cooler with much shorter hoses so it will be interesting to see if it helps the response time.
What oil are you using? Also what make filter?
BTW I think there are details of a mod to prevent the engine startin until a specified pressure is reached on RPI's web site.
However I am not sure if churning the engine on the starter would cause more wear - camshaft area if probably most at risk, so a quick starter and highish revs (say 1,500) is probably good.
Danny
BTW I think there are details of a mod to prevent the engine startin until a specified pressure is reached on RPI's web site.
However I am not sure if churning the engine on the starter would cause more wear - camshaft area if probably most at risk, so a quick starter and highish revs (say 1,500) is probably good.
Danny
I think Danny has made a good point on the oil bit. I run 20W50 in my 450 SE and the light will twink out in about 2 seconds, and I use synthetic oil. If your using standard oil, especially anything over 10W in the cold it could take a bit more time. My personal rule is, if the car has been sitting awhile, and the light doesn't go out in 5 seconds, kill the car. It could also be oil pressure release valve, which has been noted in previous posts here.
Shawn Ford
Shawn Ford
It has been suggested to me to fit a piezo buzzer with the oil light. Reason being if I jump in the car in a rush and not take note of the oil light you soon hear it, and when motoring along should sommit go wrong. Something a previous owner could have done with by the look of the reciepts.
Oh mine goes out after about 2 secs after firing up, turns about twice then up it goes.
Oh mine goes out after about 2 secs after firing up, turns about twice then up it goes.
danny hoffman said: What oil are you using? Also what make filter?
BTW I think there are details of a mod to prevent the engine startin until a specified pressure is reached on RPI's web site.
However I am not sure if churning the engine on the starter would cause more wear - camshaft area if probably most at risk, so a quick starter and highish revs (say 1,500) is probably good.
Danny
Does sound pretty stupid as the pre-serp oil pumps often require the engine to start to get full oil pressure to build up. So all you end up with is an immobiliser that is on all the time.
I think that the pump may be a little worn or the sender itself is a little tired. Replacing the switch might be worth trying. If the oil preessure is good I would not be that concerned.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
I've got a brand new oil pump in my 400 (with oil in it too!) and my oil light takes a couple of seconds to go out on average.
Surely in cold weather the oil's going to be thicker and take a bit longer to pressure up?
(I'm basing this on my knowledge of custard BTW so don't take me too seriously
)
What should perfect Rover V8 oil pressure be anyway?
(sorry Steve - got the book just can't be ars*d looking it up
)
>> Edited by bobfrance on Friday 6th December 10:01
Surely in cold weather the oil's going to be thicker and take a bit longer to pressure up?
(I'm basing this on my knowledge of custard BTW so don't take me too seriously
) What should perfect Rover V8 oil pressure be anyway?
(sorry Steve - got the book just can't be ars*d looking it up
) >> Edited by bobfrance on Friday 6th December 10:01
When I first got my car, I thought the oil pressure was low, because I was basing it on oil pressures for the six cylinder S series cars of about 50-55 psi. My 450 runs about 30 psi, and after talking with some other Wedge owners, and having the oil guage confirmed for accuracy, it seems this is what other cars are achieving.
Shawn
Shawn
shawn ford said: When I first got my car, I thought the oil pressure was low, because I was basing it on oil pressures for the six cylinder S series cars of about 50-55 psi. My 450 runs about 30 psi, and after talking with some other Wedge owners, and having the oil guage confirmed for accuracy, it seems this is what other cars are achieving.
Shawn
After the failure of my oil pressure switch at a trackday two years ago, and the fitting of the modified tapered switch, my oil pressure is a constant 50PSI (middle of the gauge). When hot it drops to about 40ish, but returns to the middle when the throttle is blipped.
Incidently, my oil pressure light takes 2-3 seconds to go out upon starting a totally cold engine.
I remember seeing a SEAC many years ago that had a manual primer ... i remember being told that the car could be primed to working pressure before turning the engine over.
Jason
Had a 350 with similar problem oil light even flashed on tickover the car had mobil 1 in it from new
on speaking to a Rover mechanic he stated I must be mad as the engine tolerances were such that it did not require such modern oil and he reckoned that it would knock out the cam s and followers out
on checking the service history found that they had been replaced at 40k miles
put in gtx pressure increased by 10lb and oil light stopped flickering
on speaking to a Rover mechanic he stated I must be mad as the engine tolerances were such that it did not require such modern oil and he reckoned that it would knock out the cam s and followers out
on checking the service history found that they had been replaced at 40k miles
put in gtx pressure increased by 10lb and oil light stopped flickering
david beer said: Call me daft but on my old 390se i turned the filter assy up the other way as i thought the oil could then not drain back out through the pump! I was trying to stop the 3 seconds tappet rattle.
They have a one way valve in them. ... I will refrain from calling you daft....
steve
350matt said: There is! www.accusump.com/
Be warned tho' they ain't small
Matt
Planning on fitting one to the 520 for next season just in case of oil surge. John Eales assures me that his baffled sump will be Ok I don't want to take any chances as the car will be on slicks and cornering a bit quicker than normal...
Steve
shpub said:
350matt said: There is! www.accusump.com/
Be warned tho' they ain't small
Matt
Planning on fitting one to the 520 for next season just in case of oil surge. John Eales assures me that his baffled sump will be Ok I don't want to take any chances as the car will be on slicks and cornering a bit quicker than normal...
Steve
The only thing Steve is that you need a very large Accusump to cope with the volume of oil flow in these engines, I have fitted different sizes , the one in my last SEAC was 4L but wasn't big enough to cope with oil surge (although better than nothing)but great for priming prior to starting.
Tim
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