Changing suspension, whose silly idea was this....
Discussion
Afternoon all
Given up for today(of maybe rest of year) and come inside to warm up, eat, cry, stop my head bleeding (she bit me) and seek help, argh!
I'm attempting to change all springs, dampers and most bushes on my horrible, nasty 280i, trailing arm. Finally removed one rear strut after struggling with its nuts for ages. The rest just doesn't wanna come apart, no matter how much I drown it in Plusgas, heat it, beat it, swear at it, etc.
Any suggestions on how to get some of it apart, short of chopping it all off with an angle grinder and buying new bits. The big threaded rod thing that's on the bottom of the hub? Front of the trailing arm? Grrrr!
I've not even looked at the front yet.
help me :-)
Dave
Given up for today(of maybe rest of year) and come inside to warm up, eat, cry, stop my head bleeding (she bit me) and seek help, argh!
I'm attempting to change all springs, dampers and most bushes on my horrible, nasty 280i, trailing arm. Finally removed one rear strut after struggling with its nuts for ages. The rest just doesn't wanna come apart, no matter how much I drown it in Plusgas, heat it, beat it, swear at it, etc.
Any suggestions on how to get some of it apart, short of chopping it all off with an angle grinder and buying new bits. The big threaded rod thing that's on the bottom of the hub? Front of the trailing arm? Grrrr!
I've not even looked at the front yet.
help me :-)
Dave
If I was going to do that I would soak/oil/plus gas etc several day's before, bit late now, I know. Improvised drifts and a heavy hammer. I bought a length of threaded rod from a DIY shop and cut to a suitable size for some of the rods.
Also angle grind (or buy)one spanner so it is a bit less in width than the nut under the lock one on top of the shock. You can then use the spanners to work against each other.
Copper Ease it on re-assembly to make the next time easier.
Also angle grind (or buy)one spanner so it is a bit less in width than the nut under the lock one on top of the shock. You can then use the spanners to work against each other.
Copper Ease it on re-assembly to make the next time easier.
Finished my backend last week and just starting the front 
, the offside bottom link bar was seized solid just like yours, the only way I got it out was to heat the carrier, proped it against the garage wall and leathered it with a big hammer! Not the way i'd have prefered but it worked, mind you don't damage your carrier though, £150 a shot.
p.s The blow torch will keep you warm on these dark winter nights and it also helps the blood on your knuckles dry quicker
, the offside bottom link bar was seized solid just like yours, the only way I got it out was to heat the carrier, proped it against the garage wall and leathered it with a big hammer! Not the way i'd have prefered but it worked, mind you don't damage your carrier though, £150 a shot. p.s The blow torch will keep you warm on these dark winter nights and it also helps the blood on your knuckles dry quicker
So it is possible then! Looks like the next phase is to remove the lot from the horrid car, so I can get a good run-up to hit it. Shame the driveshaft is still very attached and the front of the trailing arm is unbolted but unwilling to oblige.
I'm hoping it'll magically be better tomorrow. Was hoping to get a decent amount done this week whilst off work.
I'm hoping it'll magically be better tomorrow. Was hoping to get a decent amount done this week whilst off work.
A couple of points:
1) I stripped my rear suspension without any probs, but I spent the previous 2 months soaking everything in brake fluid (great for the job, but watch the paintwork)
2) Heat is the last resort (before the angle grinder!). You might try putting the offending items through a few heat cycles, get everything hot a then spray water on it - the shock of the sudden heat change may just "crack" the rust.
Good luck
Danny
1) I stripped my rear suspension without any probs, but I spent the previous 2 months soaking everything in brake fluid (great for the job, but watch the paintwork)
2) Heat is the last resort (before the angle grinder!). You might try putting the offending items through a few heat cycles, get everything hot a then spray water on it - the shock of the sudden heat change may just "crack" the rust.
Good luck
Danny
Patients young skywalker, I had to cut my rear shocks out with a grinder, my pivot pins were also seized into the trailing arms 
Disconnect the driveshafts from the diff, the lower links from the diff cradle and you can just squeeze the arm out from under the fuel tank with pin & hub still attached. Don't forget your bag of new nuts as you'll probably round most of them off. I've got a spare set of new trailing arm bushes if you need'um.
Disconnect the driveshafts from the diff, the lower links from the diff cradle and you can just squeeze the arm out from under the fuel tank with pin & hub still attached. Don't forget your bag of new nuts as you'll probably round most of them off. I've got a spare set of new trailing arm bushes if you need'um. Cheers for the replies people.
Regarding the "just squeeze the arm out from under the fuel tank with pin & hub still attached". Which bit can I undo to get it off the car in the least painful manner? I've unscrewed a BIG nut on one end of the pin, now looking at diagrams of the trailing arm I see a few others. I've got new trailing arm bushes so am quite willing to inflict pain on the existing ones :-)
Oh well, at least there's no fuel tank in the way on mine, safely behind the rear seats!
Regarding the "just squeeze the arm out from under the fuel tank with pin & hub still attached". Which bit can I undo to get it off the car in the least painful manner? I've unscrewed a BIG nut on one end of the pin, now looking at diagrams of the trailing arm I see a few others. I've got new trailing arm bushes so am quite willing to inflict pain on the existing ones :-)
Oh well, at least there's no fuel tank in the way on mine, safely behind the rear seats!
Another trick is to hacksaw off the head of the through bolt then wind it out on its own thread with additional washers etc
Of course having been through the pain you'll invest in the largest bumper size of copperslip you can find and drench every thing in it. Also stainless steel fasteners are worth seeking out, providing you can find equivalent 12.9 rating.
Matt
>> Edited by 350matt on Wednesday 27th November 18:00
Of course having been through the pain you'll invest in the largest bumper size of copperslip you can find and drench every thing in it. Also stainless steel fasteners are worth seeking out, providing you can find equivalent 12.9 rating.
Matt
>> Edited by 350matt on Wednesday 27th November 18:00
That's it, I give up on the horrible thing for the rest of the month. Now one of my sockets is stuck on, the brake discs are drenched in oil, my head still hurts and I really hope the front is easier than this....if I ever make it that far......
I will be using this as an excuse to buy me an air compressor and lots of lovely air tools. I've wanted some for ages anyways and I NEED an impact wrench!
Whinge over, going to bed :-)
I will be using this as an excuse to buy me an air compressor and lots of lovely air tools. I've wanted some for ages anyways and I NEED an impact wrench!
Whinge over, going to bed :-)
When I stripped my rear suspension it took two hours a side to saw through the bolt between the carrier and the lower suspension arm. This reduced the friction load on each side. The shocked side could be jacked out. The other side was drifted out after heating the carrier.
For the shocked top nuts I used a small nut splitted to grip the corroded nuts, a bit of a turn at a time.
In all the best part of a day.
For the shocked top nuts I used a small nut splitted to grip the corroded nuts, a bit of a turn at a time.
In all the best part of a day.
I never did manage to fully strip the rear sussies on my Tasmin; I hope the new owner has better luck! 
For the unitittie.... uninisherated.. uninshitrated.. for those who don't already know it, the early cars had a length of steel rod, about a foot long, threaded at each end as the main element tying all the parts together. This rod gets corroded to the alloy hub carrier at each end, plus the bush in the centre of the radius arm and the one in the damper lower eye. Once you start down the path of destruction to get it out, it's going to be expensive! I don't know if the later steel fabricated steel hub carriers worked any better in this respect, but the alloy version is very similar to that use on the Lotus cars of the period: I recall a mate demolishing his car to replace the same bit of rod!
The TVR Wedges with the A frame suspension are, I hope, easier, 'cos I'm planning on pulling mine to bits this winter; so I'm mking notes of the various solutions you lot propose...
Ian
For the unitittie.... uninisherated.. uninshitrated.. for those who don't already know it, the early cars had a length of steel rod, about a foot long, threaded at each end as the main element tying all the parts together. This rod gets corroded to the alloy hub carrier at each end, plus the bush in the centre of the radius arm and the one in the damper lower eye. Once you start down the path of destruction to get it out, it's going to be expensive! I don't know if the later steel fabricated steel hub carriers worked any better in this respect, but the alloy version is very similar to that use on the Lotus cars of the period: I recall a mate demolishing his car to replace the same bit of rod!
The TVR Wedges with the A frame suspension are, I hope, easier, 'cos I'm planning on pulling mine to bits this winter; so I'm mking notes of the various solutions you lot propose...
Ian
Dave, which bits are you still struggling with? I am not sure that air tools are going to help you with siezed bolts.
If you can't get the long bolt out that goes through the trailing arm and rear link you could chop through the rear link with an angle grinder. Then with less load on each side it may be possible to remove each half. I have a set of standard rear arms (no bushes) but they are powder coated. I fitted a new set of adjustable ones. You are welcome to them if it helps.
I am only in Manchester.
Have you removed the Wheel nut and the trailing arm pivot yet?
If you can't get the long bolt out that goes through the trailing arm and rear link you could chop through the rear link with an angle grinder. Then with less load on each side it may be possible to remove each half. I have a set of standard rear arms (no bushes) but they are powder coated. I fitted a new set of adjustable ones. You are welcome to them if it helps.
I am only in Manchester.
Have you removed the Wheel nut and the trailing arm pivot yet?
There's a few bits that won't see things my way ;-)
I'm now ignoring the long pivot bolt through the trailing arm+rear link until it's all removed from the car......got the shocker and other end of the rear link free. Can't undo the 4 nuts on inboard end of driveshaft, not enough room to get an extension bar in. Have removed the big nut on the front of the trailing arm but the others won't budge and again, not enough room for extension bar :-(
I've been trying to avoid the destructive option but it's starting to look like I might have to resort to that :-( How much would you like for the rear links? No bushes could be a good thing, save trying to remove the remains of mine! Out of interest, are the rear links supposed to be angled halfway along?
cheers
Dave
I'm now ignoring the long pivot bolt through the trailing arm+rear link until it's all removed from the car......got the shocker and other end of the rear link free. Can't undo the 4 nuts on inboard end of driveshaft, not enough room to get an extension bar in. Have removed the big nut on the front of the trailing arm but the others won't budge and again, not enough room for extension bar :-(
I've been trying to avoid the destructive option but it's starting to look like I might have to resort to that :-( How much would you like for the rear links? No bushes could be a good thing, save trying to remove the remains of mine! Out of interest, are the rear links supposed to be angled halfway along?
cheers
Dave
Dave:
The inboard nuts on the driveshafts shouldn't be THAT difficult to remove! A 1/2" or 9/16" spanner is all I recall using. OK, maybe a socket, and a couple of extensions so you can get some leverage well away from the driveshaft... and a 7-pounder... oxyacetylene... but they will come out....!
The trailing arm front pivot isn't really a pivot; i.e. it doesn't actually rotate in the bush, so it can seize. I seem to remember that the nut on the other end of that 'pivot' wouldn't move at all on my car. You should be able to remove the nut on the bush side, remove the nuts & bolts holding the bush to the chassis, then pry the bush off the 'pivot'.
Then it should all just fall off....
The rear link (radius arm) should be straight, apart from the offset of the bush eyes at each end. People are always trying to jack the Wedges up in the wrong places
If you get some new radius arms, it may be worth making a jig so you can copy them!
Ian
The inboard nuts on the driveshafts shouldn't be THAT difficult to remove! A 1/2" or 9/16" spanner is all I recall using. OK, maybe a socket, and a couple of extensions so you can get some leverage well away from the driveshaft... and a 7-pounder... oxyacetylene... but they will come out....!
The trailing arm front pivot isn't really a pivot; i.e. it doesn't actually rotate in the bush, so it can seize. I seem to remember that the nut on the other end of that 'pivot' wouldn't move at all on my car. You should be able to remove the nut on the bush side, remove the nuts & bolts holding the bush to the chassis, then pry the bush off the 'pivot'.
Then it should all just fall off....
The rear link (radius arm) should be straight, apart from the offset of the bush eyes at each end. People are always trying to jack the Wedges up in the wrong places
If you get some new radius arms, it may be worth making a jig so you can copy them! Ian
I thought the front pivot did (swivel) Certainly seemed to after re assembly and copper ease. One nut was solid but the one the other side gave way after a little help. The bush was ripped up so I assumed it had to have some swivelish in it?
I got away with the inboards with 2 spanners, my sockets were too large to fit one side. Bit annoying but after a while all undone. If I understand it right, they are not too tight anyway.
Oh, and if I have this right, best loose the big hub nut whilst all is on the car...200ft/lbs+ required for it? If you want to undo it that is.
Standing by for shooting down.....
I got away with the inboards with 2 spanners, my sockets were too large to fit one side. Bit annoying but after a while all undone. If I understand it right, they are not too tight anyway.
Oh, and if I have this right, best loose the big hub nut whilst all is on the car...200ft/lbs+ required for it? If you want to undo it that is.
Standing by for shooting down.....
I agree with Ian, if you are struggling with the inboard driveshaft nuts you maybe trying to use the wrong tools.
An oxy torch will free virually all seized items, if you haven't got access to one it might be worth hiring one, or you can buy hand held canister type torches which put out similar heat (or so I am told)
Don't give up yet!!
Danny
An oxy torch will free virually all seized items, if you haven't got access to one it might be worth hiring one, or you can buy hand held canister type torches which put out similar heat (or so I am told)
Don't give up yet!!
Danny
Dave, I don't want anything for the links. They are yours if you want them. I bought adjustable ones and it may be worth considering this, I guess it depends what you want to spend.
The inboard drive shaft nuts can be a bit of a pig as a socket won't go on. Try rotating the shaft to see if you can get the nut in a position where a socket will go on. Or you may be able to get a ring spanner on if you grind off one side (if that's possible on something that's round!!) Another option is to use one of the cut off air powered tools. The ones like a small angle grinder. Takes a bit of time but you will be able to remove one side of the nut without damaging the thread. You don't want to do this as I think you will have to dismantle the diff to renew the studs.
The inboard drive shaft nuts can be a bit of a pig as a socket won't go on. Try rotating the shaft to see if you can get the nut in a position where a socket will go on. Or you may be able to get a ring spanner on if you grind off one side (if that's possible on something that's round!!) Another option is to use one of the cut off air powered tools. The ones like a small angle grinder. Takes a bit of time but you will be able to remove one side of the nut without damaging the thread. You don't want to do this as I think you will have to dismantle the diff to renew the studs.
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