Odd Half Shafts
Discussion
Thanks for the replies on the hub carrier, i'll go for a new one.
I found another problem today, it must relate to the previously broken hub. Beleive it or not my half shafts are different diameters?? The outer is the larger with HS u.j's and the inner is smaller with GKN u.j's.
I thought the vibration problems I was having were down to the cossie pushing to many horses, obviously not.
Has anyone heard of this before? I think the previous owners name was Mr B Odge. Any comments would be appreciated i.e. what model Jag used the larger shaft?
I found another problem today, it must relate to the previously broken hub. Beleive it or not my half shafts are different diameters?? The outer is the larger with HS u.j's and the inner is smaller with GKN u.j's.
I thought the vibration problems I was having were down to the cossie pushing to many horses, obviously not.
Has anyone heard of this before? I think the previous owners name was Mr B Odge. Any comments would be appreciated i.e. what model Jag used the larger shaft?
The shafts are TVR specific. I think the larger diameter shafts were used on the bigger wedges. I have never heard of a car with shafts of different diameters and I am not sure how this would affect things. Individually, if they are in balance then would this cause vibration/judder??? Are you sure that the propshaft and drive shaft UJ's are all OK?
19560 said: Note that the 350s had XJ6 UJs whilst the 400s et al had XJ12 UJs(which are twice as big and last four times as long.)
There have been around four different sizes used with even the big ones being used on the later 350s. A replacement halfshaft is around £450 BTW. Measure the cap sizes to ensure that you get the right ones. The 520 is currently using some fitted to a Massey Ferguson tractor as the engine ate the others in about 8 weeks and the rear wheel bearings and the suspension bearings. So be careful with the boost.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
I forgot to mention the state of the U.J's that fell out of the smaller di shaft, rusted solid. This must have been causing the problem, all the new parts i'm adding are being balanced, the prop's already done.
I'm taking the whole lot to a Jag breakers tomorrow to try & match a pair, chap on the phone thinks that some of the hub attachments are different?. With 240bhp I need the big U.J's. Thanks for the posts.
I'm taking the whole lot to a Jag breakers tomorrow to try & match a pair, chap on the phone thinks that some of the hub attachments are different?. With 240bhp I need the big U.J's. Thanks for the posts.
Beleive it or not my half shafts are different diameters?? The outer is the larger with HS u.j's and the inner is smaller with GKN u.j's.
Eh? What do you mean by 'inner' and 'outer' halfshafts?
As far as I know there is a flange to the diff, a UJ, then a tubular driveshaft, another UJ, then the stub axle. Which bits am I missing?
I believe the inboard flanges were as the XJ6, the hubs themselves possibly TR6 and the rest TVR specific (although some of the dimensions e.g. UJ cap diameter) were industry standards.
Ian
350matt said: I don't spose anyone has got any of the 'big' XJ12 type for sale have they? I fancy upgrading mine to save the regular replacement.
Matt
Most of the independents have them for sale and use the greasable ones. But and this is a big but... you need the corresponding big drive shaft to take them. The UJs are about £10-15. New drive shaft is £450. It may be possible to do something by machining the existing drive shaft but this is expensive and the reduced metal can sheer under load.... been there etc on a Vixen!
The Jaguar rear system is almost impossible to strip down at a scrappy as it is a 400 lb complete unit that needs a lot of time and patience. Better looking for one that has been stripped but the drive shafts do not fit.
Steve
Wedgie, I meant to say nearside & offside. The nearside flange, driveshaft and stubaxle are twice as big as the offside. From what the chaps are saying I think the smaller setup is the original(1981 280i) & the larger was fitted in the past when the hub carrier was repaired. David Kelly Breakers in Wrexham specialises in Jag spares and sells mainly axles for kit car builders, they've asked me to bring both sides and should be able to match the larger shaft, flange and stub axle off the shelf. Fingers crossed.
Cheers Steve, that's one thing I needn't check now.
Taz if you can manage to change to the later 400 style set-up that would be impressive but you'll still eat the UJs on the prop shaft - just carry a pair in the boot.
I can see this engine being chipped to 400bhp before long. Whilst you are rebuilding the back end and renewing one hub anyway have you considered changing to the A-frame set up?
Taz if you can manage to change to the later 400 style set-up that would be impressive but you'll still eat the UJs on the prop shaft - just carry a pair in the boot.
I can see this engine being chipped to 400bhp before long. Whilst you are rebuilding the back end and renewing one hub anyway have you considered changing to the A-frame set up?
A frame conversion is to complicated, I think it would be easier to change the chassis. Managed to get hold of a large u.j setup, but as the original Jag shaft is slightly longer and half the diameter of a Wedge shaft, off to the engineer's next week.Process for large u.j conversion;
1) Get hold of a flange, shaft & stubb axle.
2) Talk to your engineer nicely.
3) Remove the U.J housings from the Jag shaft.
4) Have the U.J housings welded to your new shaft.
Obviously the flange from the diff & the stubb axle have the larger housing already. Steve I am humbled once again!
1) Get hold of a flange, shaft & stubb axle.
2) Talk to your engineer nicely.
3) Remove the U.J housings from the Jag shaft.
4) Have the U.J housings welded to your new shaft.
Obviously the flange from the diff & the stubb axle have the larger housing already. Steve I am humbled once again!
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