Sprung-out

[RAW-SEWedge]

What recommendations have you got for rear springs on a 400SE, I’m sure the off-side rear is 4kered

I’d be looking for something that biased towards road use rather than track use.

Seems from previous posts that SPAX and AVOs are the most likly candidates for replacement. Anybody got any pointers either way ?

Cheers.

>>> Edited by RAW-SEWedge on Monday 11th November 12:02

[19560]

Are you asking about springs or dampers? For springs I'd say about 200 lb/in. They seem to vary from 140 to 300 depending on how you wish to set up the car.

[RAW-SEWedge]

I have a suspicion a spring is cracked, so I’m looking to replace the springs but I don’t see the point of putting the old dampers back on because they look like originals.

In sort I’m looking to replace both springs and dampers on the rear first.

Would 200 be a good compromise for road use and occasional track day. I assume the higher the lb/in the stiffer the spring ?

[19560]

Your assumption about the lb/in is correct.

I bought some 400SE springs from the TVR factory two years ago. They are the ones rated at 140 lb/in. Using these with a stiff damper setting is fine for road use but they have proved to allow too much roll on track days. Most people appear to favour 200-250+ but these are also the people who sprint or enjoy a race set-up.

Wedges were originally on Armstrong dampers but these were not adjustable. Spax fell out of favour in the late 80s because of stories about leaks. Konis are good and adjustable ( I have four ) but take me two hours to adjust each one. I also have two AVOs ( two of the Konis are now in their box ); the AVOs are fine and can be adjusted in two minutes. I think that the latest AVOs are adjustable for ride height, this is useful for track days. I would also check to see whethrer LEDA do springs and dampers for Wedges - they do a good set-up for the M series.

[RAW-SEWedge]

That’s brilliant, thanks for the feedback.

After reading the bible I was thinking AVO’s purley for the speed of adjustment. I hadn’t given much thought to springs but with the absence of an anti-role bar then the stiffer setup sounds like a good idea.
Thanks again.

[Brm Brm]

Fitted AVOs with adjustable ride height on my 400 a few years ago and was very pleased although I cant comment on their longevity as I only had them fitted for a year before I bought my SEAC. I'm currently waiting for delivery of a set of Richard Thorp's latest offering - Redline Adjustables - that he swears are better than AVOs. As they are about the same price I will be interested to see how they compare.

PS. If anyone wants the old Koni's I'm about to remove (for rebuilding) let me know and they can have them for nothing if they collect (I'm in North Bristol).

[jmorgan]

Mines on Avo's all around. New springs but fitted by a previous owner. Is there a way to tell what they are rated at on the car? I suspect not as they are under compression. I havn't tweeked the shocks as a previous owner seemed to have it all sussed. Its also lowered somewhat but seems to be fine. Rears are adjustable height but having no experience of setting up I assume its all OK. Rides like its on rails and shakes me fillings. Not felt the wheels hit arches yet.

[19560]

I measure the springs off the car by compressing them about 1/2" at a time, then measure the compressed length and the applied force. Take a number of readings and calculate the average which hopefully will not vary very much.

Has anyone tried Redline and can you adjust the ride height?

[jmorgan]

No markings then on the springs to be expected?

[shpub]

jmorgan said: No markings then on the springs to be expected?

No and the spring rates changed from week to week as well. I would go to around 250 if the car is a road car to try and stop the tyres hitting the rims. Jack Acres car used to do it frequently with the standard springs which just allowed too much roll despite him adjusting the dampers hard.

Also bear in mind that tyre pressures are also critical and running a harser setup may mean it is worth trying a different tyre pressure. I used to find that a couple of pounds would make the difference from comfort and a trip to thr dentist.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

[RAW-SEWedge]

What tyre pressure is a good starting point. I've tried 25/6 so far and feels ok.

[tvr350i]

As usual ,listen to Steve...
I´ve been testing(rear) 325, +350, and stopped at 275 with own spec konis. 275 works great on track and on the road with 26PSI in the Toyo´s. Going up to just 28 makes it much worse(passengers complaints). Also found that the progressiv bump stops in the Konis(coilover) was a BIG NO NO. Use only 5mm or so now. Progressiv bump stops(and springs?) makes the spring very HARD in some situations,lot´s of energy stored, and if the shock spec/rebound isn´t up to the job you might end up in a ditch. What´s funny is that it´s just slightly understeered on track, despite the fact that the front springs are only 10-15% harder than stock(and lowered) and i think iv'e seen Steve recommend around 40-50% ? Raising Front rate would make it understeer even more ???

And, Steve(?), any news about the rear anti-roll bar ?

>> Edited by tvr350i on Tuesday 12th November 12:37

[19560]

With new springs the tyres hitting the wheel arches is not a problem. On the standard set up the body tends to roll over the tyres not onto them, no matter how fast you drive, evn with a 140 rating and this includes track days. The body will only touch the tyres with worn out or unsuitable lowered springs. RAW-SE did ask for "biased towards road use rather than track" and 200 is probably stiff enough for the road. It tends to be forgotten that some people are not trying to win a sprint championship.
For tyre pressures stick to the 24/22 standard for road and track, increase for long distance, high speed, travel only although this will decrease grip.

[wedg1e]

Brm Brm: I'd be interested in your old Konis if you get no other takers! Every once in a while I'm in your area, I could drop in...

Ian

[RAW-SEWedge]

I suspect that if Jack had problems with the wheels touching the body on the car it was down to the rear springs being past there smelt by date. There is 40mm difference in the ride height at the rear and some nasty creaking noises coming from the off side. I fully expect the rear spring to be in two pieces when it comes out.

Thanks for all your help. I think I’ll be looking to get a pair of AVO’s and possibly 200 lb/in springs.

Any good suppliers you can recommend ?

[19560]

Richard at Wedge has been getting springs made since 1989 if I remember correctly (yes, pre-Wedge days when he had a red 350); The problem is that I could never get a free length and spring rate from him. I have found Tower View and Peninsular to be helpful. Mike Williams (Parts) at the factory is also worth a call.
The Griff and Chimp people seem to like Nitron (they offer to make any spring) - www.nitron.co.uk.
The free length of a used one from my car is 13.5" (or 345mm) but I would guess that it has sagged. Another critical dimensionis the inside width to fit around the tube at the top. My old spring measures 84mm inside and 108mm outside. Let us know how you get on.

>> Edited by 19560 on Wednesday 13th November 13:56

[york33]

If anyone is after (non-technical) measurements of the springs+Redline Racing shocks for a Tasmin, let me know. For 280i, I think the 350i is the same spec? Just bought a set of springs and shocks from Wedge (R.T Racing) and they haven't made it onto my car yet, along with a complete set of polybushes..........

cheers
Dave

PS Non technical means I have no devices more complicated than a ruler :-)

[shpub]

And, Steve(?), any news about the rear anti-roll bar ?

I ran the prototypes last year and they cured the understeer. This came back again with the 400 bhp engine and a bigger/different splitter was needed to improve the front grip. without it the car understeered very badly. Currently rebuilding the whole front suspension again and will probbaly refit the rear anti-roll bar on test.

It is a big improvement but getting the rest of the car sorted out is often more important. Having done much on the car as the new Griff/Chimaera edition is getting all my spare time.

Steve

[tvr350i]

And when can we all get a copy Steve? You mentioned something earlier about producing it together with WEDGE Automotive.

[shpub]

Probably through Tower View but right now the costs are very high as everything has to be virtually hand made and it is not something that I would automatically use as a bolt on and get improvement. The bar needs to be in balance with the rest of the suspension and it can make the car incredibly lively and twitchy and this is a bit scary. Part of the next stage is to make it adjustable. Set up is very important as a result.

Yes the plans are to do a commercial version but I am not sure when.

Steve