Jacking the rear
Discussion
Very little space in my garage and I can only get the jack under one side.
So if I jack one side up and axle stand it can I use the diff as another point once that is completed to get the other side up?
Its greasing time.
Also not too familiar with the underside of the A frame types for secure points
After moving my garage is now a lot smaller than my old one where this was not a problem.
Cheers in advance
So if I jack one side up and axle stand it can I use the diff as another point once that is completed to get the other side up?
Its greasing time.
Also not too familiar with the underside of the A frame types for secure points
After moving my garage is now a lot smaller than my old one where this was not a problem.
Cheers in advance
If this is an "A frame" car... my standard method of jacking up the rear is as follows:-
Find yourself a piece of 3x2 about 8 inches long... Then if you look under the back of the car you will find a channel section to the rear of the diff. Put the 3x2 in the channel (short side to the top) and jack up under the wood. Once high enough, you can place stands and lower the car onto them. This method is useful when you need to change the rear pads or the annual adjustment of the handbrake!
Don't whatever you do use the diff!
Regards,
Brian (and a Red 350)
>> Edited by briantvr350i on Saturday 9th November 11:53
Find yourself a piece of 3x2 about 8 inches long... Then if you look under the back of the car you will find a channel section to the rear of the diff. Put the 3x2 in the channel (short side to the top) and jack up under the wood. Once high enough, you can place stands and lower the car onto them. This method is useful when you need to change the rear pads or the annual adjustment of the handbrake!
Don't whatever you do use the diff!
Regards,
Brian (and a Red 350)
>> Edited by briantvr350i on Saturday 9th November 11:53
You should be able to use Brian's method without jacking up one side first; I've used that method since 1991 and I don't bother with the wood always(and there is still no rust there.) Either buy a lower trolley jack or change the set up of your car - it sounds like the springs are either tired or lowered.
Does anyone know what clearance there is on the front and rear of the wedge to get a trolly jack under. I am looking round for something more substantial than the £20 one I currently use. I have seen a 3 ton one, but the minimum height is 140mm. I have seen others with a minimum height of 114mm, but they don't look as good.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.
sevans said: Does anyone know what clearance there is on the front and rear of the wedge to get a trolly jack under. I am looking round for something more substantial than the £20 one I currently use. I have seen a 3 ton one, but the minimum height is 140mm. I have seen others with a minimum height of 114mm, but they don't look as good.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.
Who is to say that anyone else's measurements will match!
I would go for as low a unit as possible.
sevans said: Does anyone know what clearance there is on the front and rear of the wedge to get a trolly jack under. I am looking round for something more substantial than the £20 one I currently use. I have seen a 3 ton one, but the minimum height is 140mm. I have seen others with a minimum height of 114mm, but they don't look as good.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.
Who is to say that anyone else's measurements will match!
I would go for as low a unit as possible.
I have found over the years that if you can roll the
wheels up onto some planks of wood to get some extra
clearance, most of the good hydraulic floor jacks will
fit under jacking points without much trouble. But I
still agree with Steve, get the one that has the lowest lift height possible, you'll be glad you did.
wheels up onto some planks of wood to get some extra
clearance, most of the good hydraulic floor jacks will
fit under jacking points without much trouble. But I
still agree with Steve, get the one that has the lowest lift height possible, you'll be glad you did.
Sorry to drag this thread up again but in the quote below are we talking about the cross member that joins the rear of the chassis below the shock mounts?
Ta... Don't want to bend anything
briantvr350i said:
.....look under the back of the car you will find a channel section to the rear of the diff.
Ta... Don't want to bend anything

I am borrowing a set of car ramps with built in jacks.
when down they are really low and you can reverse the car onto them. You then just jack them up. they go higher than any axle stands, and have safety locks to secure them when up.alas the company that made them appears to be no longer in existence.But maybe the demand is there to have a mchine shop manufcture again.
when down they are really low and you can reverse the car onto them. You then just jack them up. they go higher than any axle stands, and have safety locks to secure them when up.alas the company that made them appears to be no longer in existence.But maybe the demand is there to have a mchine shop manufcture again.
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