New boy needs info.
Discussion
I'm about to make a sixteen year dream come true, I'm looking to buy a 350i. I've done all the research, and am aware of the questions to ask, and what to look for. I also own a copy of the bible, so I think I'm off to a good start. I've had a quick look at a couple, but had a real good look at one at the weekend. It appeared to be OK, but one question (probably the first of many)needs to be answered. I've read that most of the wedges tend to leak a bit of water, so what sort of corrosion levels am I likely to see on the metal parts within the car. I ask this, because the car I looked at had some degree of corrosion on all metal parts, including pedal arms, the brackets the boot dampers are connected to, and behind the veneer where the heater controls are. Is this normal? I suppose I'll find this out when I look at more, but I'm just eager for information. My other question of misted dials has been answered in the moist (???) thread.
Damp dials? blemishes on the pedals? Niff Naff and Triv compared to the biggies I'm afraid.
If it need a body off job on the chassis then it will cost you thousands. Flakey powder coating is normal on any TVR over a couple of years old, it's the rot you have to watch for. The outriggers are particularly prone to needing replacement.
Ditto for duff engines. I was lucky with my SEAC, the engine was healthy; but I took a bigger risk than I knew. Jeff Morgan was unlucky but was covered by a decent warrenty and had it sorted at someone elses expense.
An inspection by someone who really know what they are looking at wouldn't go amiss - unless you are feeling lucky.
If it need a body off job on the chassis then it will cost you thousands. Flakey powder coating is normal on any TVR over a couple of years old, it's the rot you have to watch for. The outriggers are particularly prone to needing replacement.
Ditto for duff engines. I was lucky with my SEAC, the engine was healthy; but I took a bigger risk than I knew. Jeff Morgan was unlucky but was covered by a decent warrenty and had it sorted at someone elses expense.
An inspection by someone who really know what they are looking at wouldn't go amiss - unless you are feeling lucky.
Hi Kim...Have a look at my ad in the wedge forum classifieds, the 460i Wedge.
www.bress.freeserve.co.uk/wedge/classifieds.html
All wedge's will need the work I have done to mine eventually, you can check what you need to look for by what I have done to mine.....Phill
www.bress.freeserve.co.uk/wedge/classifieds.html
All wedge's will need the work I have done to mine eventually, you can check what you need to look for by what I have done to mine.....Phill
Kim,
Sounds like your on the right track, getting the bible first is a good move.
I bought mine about a year ago and decided to rebuild it straight away. I would say your biggest worry is the chassis in a 350. Thats what I checked first. The spine should be ok but look out for welding on the beam under the gearbox and check the outriggers carefully, on one I saw they had disolved and this will cost you. Also look for damage to the front and back of the chassis as it may have had a knock, more than the normal few cracks around the head lights, on the wings and around the perol filler cap may also indicate this. There is a couple of bits of metal inside the car that attach to both outriggers that form the internal structure holding the doors and roof on and the beams inside the doors.
The engine is an obvious biggie but parts are readily available and fairly cheap for a 350 which has a standard Rover Vitesse lump, 390's plus are tvr specials and a different kettle of fish. The engine should run smoothly with no nasty noises and if you look in the oil filler cap the cleaner the better looked after and less worn it is, thick black sludge is rebuild time. Check the oil pressure and temperature on a bit of a run.
Knocks from the back can indicate worn UJ's but this is fixable.
Interior will cost a bit to do, as will the roof. The interior covering may be difficult to match up too.
I hope I'm not putting you off! cos there are some really nice ones out there with none of these problems, I got an '87 350i and the chassis was fine except for a bit of surface rust, no crash damage that I can find after taking it to bits, and the engine seems very clean with 52000m on it.
If its in your budget I would go and have a look at Wild2Mild's car, I've seen and heard it and its bl**dy nice, he's spent thousands on it includind a new v8 developments 4.6 engine and it seemed to need nothing.
Otherwise one with lots spent on it at specialists and all the bits like stainless exhaust, new shocks, poly bushes etc. would probably be a good bet.
I would agree with the above, if you buy one for 3k it may cost you more in the long run.
I've got a couple of pictures of mine in bits that show you what the covered chassis bits look like. E-mail me and I will send them to you.
Good hunting. Let us know how you get on.
Gareth.
>> Edited by gf350 on Tuesday 5th November 19:37
Sounds like your on the right track, getting the bible first is a good move.
I bought mine about a year ago and decided to rebuild it straight away. I would say your biggest worry is the chassis in a 350. Thats what I checked first. The spine should be ok but look out for welding on the beam under the gearbox and check the outriggers carefully, on one I saw they had disolved and this will cost you. Also look for damage to the front and back of the chassis as it may have had a knock, more than the normal few cracks around the head lights, on the wings and around the perol filler cap may also indicate this. There is a couple of bits of metal inside the car that attach to both outriggers that form the internal structure holding the doors and roof on and the beams inside the doors.
The engine is an obvious biggie but parts are readily available and fairly cheap for a 350 which has a standard Rover Vitesse lump, 390's plus are tvr specials and a different kettle of fish. The engine should run smoothly with no nasty noises and if you look in the oil filler cap the cleaner the better looked after and less worn it is, thick black sludge is rebuild time. Check the oil pressure and temperature on a bit of a run.
Knocks from the back can indicate worn UJ's but this is fixable.
Interior will cost a bit to do, as will the roof. The interior covering may be difficult to match up too.
I hope I'm not putting you off! cos there are some really nice ones out there with none of these problems, I got an '87 350i and the chassis was fine except for a bit of surface rust, no crash damage that I can find after taking it to bits, and the engine seems very clean with 52000m on it.
If its in your budget I would go and have a look at Wild2Mild's car, I've seen and heard it and its bl**dy nice, he's spent thousands on it includind a new v8 developments 4.6 engine and it seemed to need nothing.
Otherwise one with lots spent on it at specialists and all the bits like stainless exhaust, new shocks, poly bushes etc. would probably be a good bet.
I would agree with the above, if you buy one for 3k it may cost you more in the long run.
I've got a couple of pictures of mine in bits that show you what the covered chassis bits look like. E-mail me and I will send them to you.
Good hunting. Let us know how you get on.
Gareth.
>> Edited by gf350 on Tuesday 5th November 19:37
Nacnud said: Jeff Morgan was unlucky but was covered by a decent warrenty and had it sorted at someone elses expense.lucky.
Called Visa
Private sale so had to fork out myself. In a way lucky cos I know whats done to it:daftand
: On a serious note, get the engine checked. Cost me big time.
Also on www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/
There is a buyers guide also get a HPI check done before buying. All you need is the reg.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 5th November 20:02
Don't worry about daft bits like the bootlid damper brackets: my '87 390 has rust on those; it's still managed 104000 miles with them in a state!
With a TVR Wedge, a lot depends on how much you can (or are prepared to attempt to) do yourself. If you succumb to 'cheque-book-wedge' syndrome then it WILL get expensive beacause sundry 'specialists' have mortgages on their villas in Spain to pay.
If you have half an ounce of mechanical competence and a toolkit that consists of more than a bicycle tyre lever and a plug spanner you can do a hell of a lot yourself.
If you can weld, buy a MIG set and an angle grinder and do the chassis repairs yourself. You'll easily recoup the cost of the gear with the labour charges you won't have to pay, and you'd be amazed how many other opportunities you get to use a MIG set.
People seem to think these cars are akin to rocket science: THEY ARE NOT. If a bunch of chimpanzees in Blackpool can cobble them together, you can probably do at least as good a job, if not better in some respects.
And before I get a good slagging for saying that, can I point out that a good mate of my father works for TVR and I have had some VERY interesting conversations with him over a pint or three in the Lake District.
As for the engines; so what? It's a Rover V8. Big deal. They've been around since Moses came down a hill on his Triumph.... or whatever.
I concede that you may come a shade unstuck if you go for one of the radically-tuned variants, but even then if it breaks it's only a matter of finding the right source for the parts. I rebuilt my 3.9 on a Black & Decker Workmate in the garage, with bits from Rimmers and machining by Brian at Auto Services. Works, doesn't it? Do I look like a bloody magician?
Get yerself out and damn well BUY one...
Ian
With a TVR Wedge, a lot depends on how much you can (or are prepared to attempt to) do yourself. If you succumb to 'cheque-book-wedge' syndrome then it WILL get expensive beacause sundry 'specialists' have mortgages on their villas in Spain to pay.
If you have half an ounce of mechanical competence and a toolkit that consists of more than a bicycle tyre lever and a plug spanner you can do a hell of a lot yourself.
If you can weld, buy a MIG set and an angle grinder and do the chassis repairs yourself. You'll easily recoup the cost of the gear with the labour charges you won't have to pay, and you'd be amazed how many other opportunities you get to use a MIG set.
People seem to think these cars are akin to rocket science: THEY ARE NOT. If a bunch of chimpanzees in Blackpool can cobble them together, you can probably do at least as good a job, if not better in some respects.
And before I get a good slagging for saying that, can I point out that a good mate of my father works for TVR and I have had some VERY interesting conversations with him over a pint or three in the Lake District.
As for the engines; so what? It's a Rover V8. Big deal. They've been around since Moses came down a hill on his Triumph.... or whatever.
I concede that you may come a shade unstuck if you go for one of the radically-tuned variants, but even then if it breaks it's only a matter of finding the right source for the parts. I rebuilt my 3.9 on a Black & Decker Workmate in the garage, with bits from Rimmers and machining by Brian at Auto Services. Works, doesn't it? Do I look like a bloody magician?
Get yerself out and damn well BUY one...
Ian
Well put Wedg1e, I have no previous mechanical knowledge and my project is going petty well.
Have you seen the one at David Geralds TVR, looks nice in the picture and its a good price.
www.davidgeraldtvr.freeserve.co.uk/
And check out the red one on Piston Heads.
www.pistonheads.com/ads/adverts.asp?s=5&p=2
WOW!
Gareth.
Have you seen the one at David Geralds TVR, looks nice in the picture and its a good price.
www.davidgeraldtvr.freeserve.co.uk/
And check out the red one on Piston Heads.
www.pistonheads.com/ads/adverts.asp?s=5&p=2
WOW!
Gareth.
I look at it like this: my car is my hobby. Of necessity I have to have a few 'bits' for my hobby, as you do with any pastime, but instead of wasting my cash on beer, fags, maggots, balsa wood glue, stupid magazines about TV soaps, subscrptions to cable TV networks, video games, season tickets or daffodil bulbs; I waste it on Britool spanners, MIG gas, depth micrometers and revolving lathe centres.
Ian
PS I lied about the beer...
Ian
PS I lied about the beer...
I have some nice new shiny bits on the way so that'll keep me away from the beer whilst I get them fitted :-0 She definitely needs fixing now, the MOT ran out, there's a hole in my chassis, the bumper fell off (or did I knock it off), the handling scares me, I'll take some piccies of where the suspension bushes are supposed to be!
Buy one, they're great, either a 'project' or one that's already had any major things fixed/replaced and have fun with it. The insurance isn't that bad either, surprised me!
Buy one, they're great, either a 'project' or one that's already had any major things fixed/replaced and have fun with it. The insurance isn't that bad either, surprised me!
Thanks for all the replies. My original question was raised because I was concerned that any corrosion inside the car would affect the electrics, seeing that rust probably isn't the best at earthing.
I've seen the ads for Phils 460 and the rebuilt one in Scotland, and both of them look excellent. But, as a couple of you have mentioned, this will be my hobby and I can't justify, let alone afford, to spend £8k on one. I want to try and look at as many as possible, so that I know what I'm looking for, but when I hear the noise I just want it there and then.
As far as relatives in Scotland are concerned, I'm not aware of having any. But with a love of wedges, there could be a common gene.
I've seen the ads for Phils 460 and the rebuilt one in Scotland, and both of them look excellent. But, as a couple of you have mentioned, this will be my hobby and I can't justify, let alone afford, to spend £8k on one. I want to try and look at as many as possible, so that I know what I'm looking for, but when I hear the noise I just want it there and then.
As far as relatives in Scotland are concerned, I'm not aware of having any. But with a love of wedges, there could be a common gene.
Kim, I've got the body off mine at the moment and three of us including two people with far more hands on experience than myself failed initially to spot some rust that had snuck under the powder coating on the chassis. A full sand blast and a few welds and a paint job later and the chassis' good as new (better actually).
Be warned.
Be warned.
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