TVR 350i Driveshafts
Discussion
Hi all.
I am new to the TVR scene and bought my first Wedge last year and been having fun with it this year.
When replacing the UJ's on the rear driveshafts, the cups did slide in easier than I thought they would (no press or vice required) and when getting the car MOT'd yesterday, the inspector said there is a bit of play in the yokes. Having had a closer inspection, I could see movement at the yokes.
Is there a way of boring and sleeving the yokes or does anyone know of where I can get replacement driveshafts?
Thanks.
I am new to the TVR scene and bought my first Wedge last year and been having fun with it this year.
When replacing the UJ's on the rear driveshafts, the cups did slide in easier than I thought they would (no press or vice required) and when getting the car MOT'd yesterday, the inspector said there is a bit of play in the yokes. Having had a closer inspection, I could see movement at the yokes.
Is there a way of boring and sleeving the yokes or does anyone know of where I can get replacement driveshafts?
Thanks.
Hi, Personally I wouldn't sleeve the yokes....they look thin enough to me.
Also you don't say which Wedge you have. There were 2 different sizes of drive shaft. The earlier 280/200 (and possible first V8's... not sure) had a smaller drive shaft. The later bigger V8's having a beefed up version. I think they are interchangable but if you already have the larger version I'm not sure I would downgrade. Just mention it in case you were not aware and end up with something you weren't expecting. I would say the beefed up versions are also more expensive. The UJ's are also different.
Regards
Steve Evans
Also you don't say which Wedge you have. There were 2 different sizes of drive shaft. The earlier 280/200 (and possible first V8's... not sure) had a smaller drive shaft. The later bigger V8's having a beefed up version. I think they are interchangable but if you already have the larger version I'm not sure I would downgrade. Just mention it in case you were not aware and end up with something you weren't expecting. I would say the beefed up versions are also more expensive. The UJ's are also different.
Regards
Steve Evans
Sorry, it's a 89 350i.
It has the thicker driveshafts and the universal joint size is 82mm X 27mm. Think it's the HS166 part number.
The MOT man was familiar with the old Jag setup and said the offside does have play but not enough to warrant any concern. The nearside has excess play and you can see and feel the cups moving slightly inside the yoke. Tried filling with grease but still not perfect. Think the old units had been in too long without grease causing them to move in the yokes.
Not heard anything back from NE breakers so, does anyone know of someone who has a single or a pair of driveshafts available?
Not on any of the usual social media platforms so I think I will be asking the wife to join a couple to see if there are any enthusiasts selling bits for Wedges.
Any recommendations?
Thanks for any advice btw.
It has the thicker driveshafts and the universal joint size is 82mm X 27mm. Think it's the HS166 part number.
The MOT man was familiar with the old Jag setup and said the offside does have play but not enough to warrant any concern. The nearside has excess play and you can see and feel the cups moving slightly inside the yoke. Tried filling with grease but still not perfect. Think the old units had been in too long without grease causing them to move in the yokes.
Not heard anything back from NE breakers so, does anyone know of someone who has a single or a pair of driveshafts available?
Not on any of the usual social media platforms so I think I will be asking the wife to join a couple to see if there are any enthusiasts selling bits for Wedges.
Any recommendations?
Thanks for any advice btw.
Thought about getting the faulty one repaired? I think it should be possible to cut off the yoke and have a new one welded on. There is a place in Manchester called 'Northwest Propshafts' and GKN Driveline in Birmingham. May be worth a call as I suspect picking up good second hand ones is going to be quite difficult.
Cheers Steve
Cheers Steve
So the cups are moving in the yokes, not the central spider moving in the cups?
If that was the case I wouldn't expect adding grease to make any difference at all.
Almost sounds like wrong diameter cups, or maybe someone historically couldn't press them in so resorted to filing the yoke bores out and made them too large...
If that was the case I wouldn't expect adding grease to make any difference at all.
Almost sounds like wrong diameter cups, or maybe someone historically couldn't press them in so resorted to filing the yoke bores out and made them too large...
Edited by Wedg1e on Thursday 9th October 01:22
Forgot to mention, just before the MOT I had fitted new GKN universal joints to both driveshafts as I had to replace the rear wheel bearings so was worth doing at the same time.
To fit the caps in the yokes at the hub end/diff end required a vice plus socket but the driveshaft yoke cups pushed in with fingers and thumbs.
I am thinking the joints have possibly run dry at some point and maybe dragged the cups around or the yokes have expanded.
Don't have any experience with universal joint issues but hopefully a specialist can fit new yokes.
To fit the caps in the yokes at the hub end/diff end required a vice plus socket but the driveshaft yoke cups pushed in with fingers and thumbs.
I am thinking the joints have possibly run dry at some point and maybe dragged the cups around or the yokes have expanded.
Don't have any experience with universal joint issues but hopefully a specialist can fit new yokes.
I see Glen has a second 350i he is breaking (I always get a reply on the 3rd or 4th ring). The drive-shaft length, (these are the top half of what is in effect the rear wishbones, not loose items, and fully loaded at every wheel turn) as such sets camber at the wheels so changing/making new ones (balancing and absolute accuracy is critical), will necessitate you having camber adjusting shims around you TVR 025J 037A. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 9th October 09:47
It's a different set up for the rear suspension compared to most but like you say can easily be adjusted with shims.
Noticed the shims between the driveshafts and discs.
Since I am going to take the driveshafts off again to sort them, I hope I can get the hub nuts as I have already drilled them so could split pin them. Read some stories of these coming loose.
Noticed the shims between the driveshafts and discs.
Since I am going to take the driveshafts off again to sort them, I hope I can get the hub nuts as I have already drilled them so could split pin them. Read some stories of these coming loose.
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