Discussion
Has anyone removed the body from the chassis on a 400?
I would just like to know without having to lift the carpet if the bolts that go through the 4 square plates on the outriggers are captive or will i need an assistant?
The reason being i would like to remove the rubber packing so i can get to the inaccessable bits of the chassis to complete the body on restoration and replace with nice new stainless bolts.
Cheers.
I would just like to know without having to lift the carpet if the bolts that go through the 4 square plates on the outriggers are captive or will i need an assistant?
The reason being i would like to remove the rubber packing so i can get to the inaccessable bits of the chassis to complete the body on restoration and replace with nice new stainless bolts.
Cheers.
Unlikley to be captive. More likely to be seized and require grinding. There are also bolts at the front and back which will need undoing as well. Body lifting is not a one man job as it is easy to crcak or damage the body in the process.
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 5th November 07:45
>> Edited by shpub on Tuesday 5th November 07:45
ANDYM,
Could you let me know where you are getting the stainless bolts from as it sounds like I am at a similar stage with my 350. As Steve said, the bolts on mine were not captive but a little rusty. I got them off myself but its a bit easier on the 350 as the sills come off. I took the seats out as well but this was a job and a half as a couple of the seat bolts whre rusty and needed cutting off.
Other than the outrigger bolts the other ones were two at front and 2 at the back of car and on the mounting plates attached to the spine plus seat belt mounting point.
I'll send you some pictures when I get a chance.
Gareth.
Could you let me know where you are getting the stainless bolts from as it sounds like I am at a similar stage with my 350. As Steve said, the bolts on mine were not captive but a little rusty. I got them off myself but its a bit easier on the 350 as the sills come off. I took the seats out as well but this was a job and a half as a couple of the seat bolts whre rusty and needed cutting off.
Other than the outrigger bolts the other ones were two at front and 2 at the back of car and on the mounting plates attached to the spine plus seat belt mounting point.
I'll send you some pictures when I get a chance.
Gareth.
I used stainless bolts and nuts when I tidied my 390 chassis up: be aware that s/s has a lower tensile strength than the usual bolts. I guess that as they pass through the GRP, it could be the shell that gives up the ghost first in a crash, but it must raise the possibility that an insurance comany would try to wriggle out of a claim if 'non-standard' fittings were used.
I also discovered an interesting phenomenon that occurs with stainless: once I'd got the nuts on, they wouldn't come back off! Something to do with friction of close-fitting s/s parts I was told....
Ian
I also discovered an interesting phenomenon that occurs with stainless: once I'd got the nuts on, they wouldn't come back off! Something to do with friction of close-fitting s/s parts I was told....
Ian
wedg1e said: I used stainless bolts and nuts when I tidied my 390 chassis up: be aware that s/s has a lower tensile strength than the usual bolts. I guess that as they pass through the GRP, it could be the shell that gives up the ghost first in a crash, but it must raise the possibility that an insurance comany would try to wriggle out of a claim if 'non-standard' fittings were used.
I also discovered an interesting phenomenon that occurs with stainless: once I'd got the nuts on, they wouldn't come back off! Something to do with friction of close-fitting s/s parts I was told....
Ian
wedg1e said: I used stainless bolts and nuts when I tidied my 390 chassis up: be aware that s/s has a lower tensile strength than the usual bolts. I guess that as they pass through the GRP, it could be the shell that gives up the ghost first in a crash, but it must raise the possibility that an insurance comany would try to wriggle out of a claim if 'non-standard' fittings were used.
I also discovered an interesting phenomenon that occurs with stainless: once I'd got the nuts on, they wouldn't come back off! Something to do with friction of close-fitting s/s parts I was told....
Ian
>> Edited by stainless_steve on Tuesday 5th November 21:35
stainless_steve said:
wedg1e said: I used stainless bolts and nuts when I tidied my 390 chassis up: be aware that s/s has a lower tensile strength than the usual bolts. I guess that as they pass through the GRP, it could be the shell that gives up the ghost first in a crash, but it must raise the possibility that an insurance comany would try to wriggle out of a claim if 'non-standard' fittings were used.
I also discovered an interesting phenomenon that occurs with stainless: once I'd got the nuts on, they wouldn't come back off! Something to do with friction of close-fitting s/s parts I was told....
stainlss steel will be fine to use, the gpr will let go first,?never had a problem undoing stainless steel bolts?and its myjob?
Ian
>> Edited by stainless_steve on Tuesday 5th November 21:35
Steve: you trying to tell us something!?
Ah, I see: you added a bit to that last post. What I was on about, and some guys on here may recall, is that I'd assemble the nuts and bolts, and when I wound a few turns on, the nuts would get stiffer and stiffer. Brand new ones, remember. Eventually they wouldn't go on, and they wouldn't come off. I had to shear the bolts, and as they were M12 or thereabouts it wasn't easy with two spanners.
I assumed I'd been given the wrong nuts for the bolts so I took them back, but when the suppliers tried them they had the same problem. In the end I went elsewhere, got some more and finished the job. For a laugh I then tried to undo one, and it was stuck fast.
Now one of the guys on here reckoned that his mate machined some close-fitting stainless parts, and when he trial-assembled, what should have been a sliding fit became an interference fit for no good reason. We never did get to the bottom of it: I can see no good reason why the nuts should have siezed other than they were incorrectly made (wrong thread angle or whatever) but I was there, I saw it happen. And yes, I use lots of stainless in small sizes at work without any problems.
Bizarre.
Ian
>> Edited by wedg1e on Tuesday 5th November 21:48
Ah, I see: you added a bit to that last post. What I was on about, and some guys on here may recall, is that I'd assemble the nuts and bolts, and when I wound a few turns on, the nuts would get stiffer and stiffer. Brand new ones, remember. Eventually they wouldn't go on, and they wouldn't come off. I had to shear the bolts, and as they were M12 or thereabouts it wasn't easy with two spanners.
I assumed I'd been given the wrong nuts for the bolts so I took them back, but when the suppliers tried them they had the same problem. In the end I went elsewhere, got some more and finished the job. For a laugh I then tried to undo one, and it was stuck fast.
Now one of the guys on here reckoned that his mate machined some close-fitting stainless parts, and when he trial-assembled, what should have been a sliding fit became an interference fit for no good reason. We never did get to the bottom of it: I can see no good reason why the nuts should have siezed other than they were incorrectly made (wrong thread angle or whatever) but I was there, I saw it happen. And yes, I use lots of stainless in small sizes at work without any problems.
Bizarre.
Ian
>> Edited by wedg1e on Tuesday 5th November 21:48
gf350 said: ANDYM,
Could you let me know where you are getting the stainless bolts from as it sounds like I am at a similar stage with my 350.
Gareth.
Gareth try www.screwfix.com mail order less than trade !!!
Tim
gf350 said: ANDYM,
Could you let me know where you are getting the stainless bolts from as it sounds like I am at a similar stage with my 350. As Steve said, the bolts on mine were not captive but a little rusty. I got them off myself but its a bit easier on the 350 as the sills come off. I took the seats out as well but this was a job and a half as a couple of the seat bolts whre rusty and needed cutting off.
Other than the outrigger bolts the other ones were two at front and 2 at the back of car and on the mounting plates attached to the spine plus seat belt mounting point.
I'll send you some pictures when I get a chance.
Gareth.
Hi Gareth I get my bits from www.stainlessman.co.uk , good selection of sizes and quite cheap too! Thanks for the info I will be having a go shortly once I buy a new gringing wheel!!
Seizing of threaded stainless steel components arises from a phenomenon known as galling. Galling is the friction/pressure welding of similar metals and usually arises when male and female threads have too little clearance or when small pieces of stainless steel swarf are present in the threads. When assembling stainless steel threaded components do not be tempted to force them if the threads go tight. The only outcome will be that the two components will weld themselves together leading to shearing of the bolt. If the components start to tighten immediately try to back them off gently, although this sometimes makes the situation as bad or worse. The best way to avoid galling is to ensure that the two mating components are very clean with no rough edges on the threads that can "pick up"and to use anti galling compound on the mating threads. This compound can be purchased from any good engineering supplier.
Andy
I have just registered with this group. I took the body off my 1990 built 400SE a few weeks ago and have now stripped the chassis to renew it.
If you or anyone else in the group is interested in information drop me an e-mail and I can send you some notes of body/chassis bolt locations and the snags I found. The info is rather long to post here.
An article will be sent to the wedge pages site in due course.
Hamish
I have just registered with this group. I took the body off my 1990 built 400SE a few weeks ago and have now stripped the chassis to renew it.
If you or anyone else in the group is interested in information drop me an e-mail and I can send you some notes of body/chassis bolt locations and the snags I found. The info is rather long to post here.
An article will be sent to the wedge pages site in due course.
Hamish
Dob of grease will do the same job. You may be interested to know that stainless bolts come in A2 and A4 grades. The A2, though stainless will corrode slowly if exposed to corrosive chemicals, and slowly even when given a salt spray! The A4 grade however will resist the harshest of chemical attacks....but they are a lot more expensive.
All reputable Fastener Distributors will supply you with stainless bolts. ISO 9000 registered ones are supposedly better...
Lee
All reputable Fastener Distributors will supply you with stainless bolts. ISO 9000 registered ones are supposedly better...
Lee
On the subject of stainless bolts, I have got a complete set for my engine from
www.ajmac.co.uk/stainless.htm
The exhaust ones with the allen key heads are a lot easier to work with.
The complete kit was good for me as I did not know what type all the bolts were.
Gareth.
www.ajmac.co.uk/stainless.htm
The exhaust ones with the allen key heads are a lot easier to work with.
The complete kit was good for me as I did not know what type all the bolts were.
Gareth.
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