Discussion
Hello all, today's daft question, that I hope some kind folk may be able to help me with.....
Is anyone able to or fancy the challenge to 3d print the electric mirror pyramid knob?
I do not have the part so unable to supply dimensional details.
It appears or could be a Classic Range Rover Part or similar..
DRC2495 Pyramid cap
DRC2481 Switch
PRC5752 Switch
PRC4273 locking nut
Is anyone able to or fancy the challenge to 3d print the electric mirror pyramid knob?
I do not have the part so unable to supply dimensional details.
It appears or could be a Classic Range Rover Part or similar..
DRC2495 Pyramid cap
DRC2481 Switch
PRC5752 Switch
PRC4273 locking nut
It was an optimistic question really.
Who knows how many may be missing, my car came without it. They are fitted to a few different TVR's as well as the Range Rover.
Cost again, I have no idea what the 3d medium costs, time, utilities and effort.
I have a few items printed previously for those hard-to-find bits, for a previous car, they were free from a long-gone ex-work colleague.
I have found a temporary solution. I while back whilst walking along Southend I came across a random keyboard key that looked a fair fit. Light Dremel later fits over the peg square peg. That will do for now.
Won't be driving it until next year now in any case, so not even looking at the dash for it to bother me in reality, nor the last 3 years. It doesn't distract from the driving, just a nice to have.
Who knows how many may be missing, my car came without it. They are fitted to a few different TVR's as well as the Range Rover.
Cost again, I have no idea what the 3d medium costs, time, utilities and effort.
I have a few items printed previously for those hard-to-find bits, for a previous car, they were free from a long-gone ex-work colleague.
I have found a temporary solution. I while back whilst walking along Southend I came across a random keyboard key that looked a fair fit. Light Dremel later fits over the peg square peg. That will do for now.
Won't be driving it until next year now in any case, so not even looking at the dash for it to bother me in reality, nor the last 3 years. It doesn't distract from the driving, just a nice to have.
Is it just this bit you're after. I just googled your part number and they suggest they have stock £17 delivered.
Yes, I have seen that and others cheaper even. That's how I got the part numbers.
I always get a bit of a mental block with those prices, having previously been in the plastic injection moulding Industry for over 20-odd years. The real price is pennies not pounds.
Most look like soft cheap tooling or even silicon prototype tools, judging by the finish.
Any old how, I will CAD up the part at some point, no great hurry I lived without for 3 years, a few more years won't hurt.
I always get a bit of a mental block with those prices, having previously been in the plastic injection moulding Industry for over 20-odd years. The real price is pennies not pounds.
Most look like soft cheap tooling or even silicon prototype tools, judging by the finish.
Any old how, I will CAD up the part at some point, no great hurry I lived without for 3 years, a few more years won't hurt.
BlueWedgy said:
Yes, I have seen that and others cheaper even.
I assumed you probably had knowing the part no but you never know there's plenty of folks with limited search ability.BlueWedgy said:
Any old how, I will CAD up the part at some point, no great hurry I lived without for 3 years, a few more years won't hurt.
Good that you have the skills I'm sure you time will exceed the cost of the cheap parts but I think the future of keeping classics on the road is people doing this kind of project for unobtainable parts. It isn't. We have had this discussion on here before.
The cost of the 3D printer that you will need to get any decent parts from will prevent it from being cost effective. Yes, you can buy a 3D printer for £a few hundred and eventually, it will turn out something small, of low quality, using the kind of plastic that McDonalds or Kinder use in free kids' toys.
If you want something of OEM quality, in ABS, then you need to pay £10s of thousands, and have space for something about the size of an American fridge freezer, that also uses quite a lot of electricity.
The cost of the 3D printer that you will need to get any decent parts from will prevent it from being cost effective. Yes, you can buy a 3D printer for £a few hundred and eventually, it will turn out something small, of low quality, using the kind of plastic that McDonalds or Kinder use in free kids' toys.
If you want something of OEM quality, in ABS, then you need to pay £10s of thousands, and have space for something about the size of an American fridge freezer, that also uses quite a lot of electricity.
The last parts I had printed of a similar size, funnily also a switch cover for a Scimitar GTE were done by an ex-work colleague, on a relatively cheap much<£500 home printer, and were of exceptional finish, quality and durability.
It depends on a number of factors medium used, complexity and how fast you want to push them out. My last parts were left to run overnight in the office.
It depends on a number of factors medium used, complexity and how fast you want to push them out. My last parts were left to run overnight in the office.
From memory the mirror joystick was also fitted to SAABs - as were the mirror motor units.
We have a 3D printer at work that I've used for various components (not car related) - the only TVR bit I designed was a replica of the seat recliner mechanism cover. It never got past a trial print which confirmed the concept but I wasn't happy with the surface finish.
We have a 3D printer at work that I've used for various components (not car related) - the only TVR bit I designed was a replica of the seat recliner mechanism cover. It never got past a trial print which confirmed the concept but I wasn't happy with the surface finish.
Edited by Wedg1e on Wednesday 28th February 01:04
BlueWedgy said:
Not done anything with this.
Did see the one for 17 quid, coming from a plastics background that would cost less than 3p to mould, kinda grates me that.
@ wedg1e well if you fancy another trial part, I have a CAD model
If it works to could punt them out for 10 quid a pop.
Don't mind giving it a try: I'd fancied having a crack at making an alloy one as various other controls on my car are home-brewed in the same fashion, though it wouldn't necessarily end up as a pyramid Did see the one for 17 quid, coming from a plastics background that would cost less than 3p to mould, kinda grates me that.
@ wedg1e well if you fancy another trial part, I have a CAD model
If it works to could punt them out for 10 quid a pop.
Alloy heater dials:
The switch blank next to the hazard switch has been replaced by a switch that Lucas never made in the 182SA series: centre off, latching one way and spring-return the other.
The latched position lets me choose whether the fuel shuts off on over-run (so no pops and bangs, ironically the reverse of what all those to553rs do these days where they have their silly shopping cars remapped to do it
) and the spring-return position runs the fuel pump so I can prime the fuel rail before cranking when the old bus has been stood a while...Seems as good a place as any to recall this bit of bling I made for Delilah, now that Zig has her back...
Edited by Wedg1e on Friday 1st March 00:31
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