clutch/gearbox noise
Discussion
I guess that your 280 has a 2.8 v6 and a type 9(n) gearbox which is similar to the 2.9 v6 and type 9(n) fitted to my s3. The clutch was about 120 quid (ap clutch from David Gerald) and my gearbox cost about 200 quid to fix. Mine just needed a new synchro on 4th and some bearings and seals. The worst case quote for a complete recon on the gearbox was about 350 quid. I took the engine/gearbox out of my car so didn't pay for the labour for that.
Hope this helps,
Mark
Hope this helps,
Mark
I looked into doing that when I did my gearbox but there are subtle differences between type-n gearboxes including whether or not they have an electronic speedo drive or not. Also I'd rather spend 2-300 and know my gearbox is good for another 85000 miles than get an old sierra box and find I'd have to take the engine out again in 5000 miles.
On the subject of the clutch, it might be different for the 2.8 engine but I found that when I got my clutch on the bench and tried to match up the part numbers from the old ford bits the 3 parts did not come from the same car. Ford and motor factors will not sell you individual clutch parts but only a clutch kit consisting of the 3 bits. You'll only know when you get it apart unless someone has the details of the part numbers handy. Also the AP kit is a much better bit of kit than the ford parts I took out and look slightly more heavy duty and it was only 120 from David Gerald. Given the hastle of getting the engine and gearbox out of my s3 (and I can only imagine it's not going to be any easier out of your car) I would factor in a new clutch if the problem is the gearbox anyway unless you know the clutch was changed recently.
Regards,
Mark
>> Edited by dern on Thursday 24th October 12:32
On the subject of the clutch, it might be different for the 2.8 engine but I found that when I got my clutch on the bench and tried to match up the part numbers from the old ford bits the 3 parts did not come from the same car. Ford and motor factors will not sell you individual clutch parts but only a clutch kit consisting of the 3 bits. You'll only know when you get it apart unless someone has the details of the part numbers handy. Also the AP kit is a much better bit of kit than the ford parts I took out and look slightly more heavy duty and it was only 120 from David Gerald. Given the hastle of getting the engine and gearbox out of my s3 (and I can only imagine it's not going to be any easier out of your car) I would factor in a new clutch if the problem is the gearbox anyway unless you know the clutch was changed recently.
Regards,
Mark
>> Edited by dern on Thursday 24th October 12:32
You don't specify whether the noise appears when the car is stationary or moving.
If it's there when stationary, it would have to be clutch of 'box, but not the diff as Danny suggests. It could be the diff if it happens when mobile.
Now, the gearbox input shaft will still be spinnig with the car in neutral and the engine running; is it quiet then? If so that probably rules out the input shaft bearing.
If you depress the clutch without selecting a gear, and the noise kicks in, it's possibly the release bearing. If the noise appears once you've pulled away, and it seems to be coming from the 'box area rather than the diff, it could be the universal joints on the propshaft, though these rarely give trouble; it's mostly the driveshaft U/Js that fail. It could even be the driveshaft U/Js making the noise if it only happens whilst moving, especially when under load.
One thing I have done in the past is to drive the car up onto the kerb, then lie under the rear end while someone sits in the car with the engine running, in first gear, and bouncing the clutch up and down gently. This will show a remarkable amount of worn components up!
I'd be tempted to go for a 2nd-hand 'box as well; my Tasmin had 102000+ miles on it and was still on the original box as far as I could tell. The 4-speed Ford box is generally long-lived.
If you opt to pull the engine out yourself, be aware that you will need a long-reach engine crane unless you use a block and tackle. Most of the standard 0.5 ton/ 1 ton cranes don't have a long enough jib to reach from the front of the car. May not be a problem if you can get the crane in from the side.
Ian
If it's there when stationary, it would have to be clutch of 'box, but not the diff as Danny suggests. It could be the diff if it happens when mobile.
Now, the gearbox input shaft will still be spinnig with the car in neutral and the engine running; is it quiet then? If so that probably rules out the input shaft bearing.
If you depress the clutch without selecting a gear, and the noise kicks in, it's possibly the release bearing. If the noise appears once you've pulled away, and it seems to be coming from the 'box area rather than the diff, it could be the universal joints on the propshaft, though these rarely give trouble; it's mostly the driveshaft U/Js that fail. It could even be the driveshaft U/Js making the noise if it only happens whilst moving, especially when under load.
One thing I have done in the past is to drive the car up onto the kerb, then lie under the rear end while someone sits in the car with the engine running, in first gear, and bouncing the clutch up and down gently. This will show a remarkable amount of worn components up!
I'd be tempted to go for a 2nd-hand 'box as well; my Tasmin had 102000+ miles on it and was still on the original box as far as I could tell. The 4-speed Ford box is generally long-lived.
If you opt to pull the engine out yourself, be aware that you will need a long-reach engine crane unless you use a block and tackle. Most of the standard 0.5 ton/ 1 ton cranes don't have a long enough jib to reach from the front of the car. May not be a problem if you can get the crane in from the side.
Ian
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff