Discussion
Car starts up fine. after a few minutes the idle will drop down and the car will stall out. If I try to restart it only the engine will turn but not fire up. If i want about 3 to 4 minutes it will restart just fine again.
Any idea why its stalling out and will not restart right away.
Thanks
Mark
Any idea why its stalling out and will not restart right away.
Thanks
Mark
You might benefit from checking the supply voltage at the ignition coil before and after it stalls before getting in deeper
The coil supply voltage can only be measured correctly by having the coil load on/in the circuit
A bad supply or a supply through a ballast resistor will still measure as 12 volt when the coil load isn't on/in the circuit
You need to remove all cables from the ignition coil negative terminal
Use a jump lead to connect the coil negative to battery negative or a known good earth
Now switch the ignition on and measure the voltage at the coil positive
Don't leave the ignition on for too long as the coil could overheat, 10 to 15 seconds isn't a problem
You will have then measured the supply voltage to the coil while it is under coil load (coil is drawing current)
The coil supply voltage can only be measured correctly by having the coil load on/in the circuit
A bad supply or a supply through a ballast resistor will still measure as 12 volt when the coil load isn't on/in the circuit
You need to remove all cables from the ignition coil negative terminal
Use a jump lead to connect the coil negative to battery negative or a known good earth
Now switch the ignition on and measure the voltage at the coil positive
Don't leave the ignition on for too long as the coil could overheat, 10 to 15 seconds isn't a problem
You will have then measured the supply voltage to the coil while it is under coil load (coil is drawing current)
Edited by Polly Grigora on Monday 18th April 12:00
my 1986 280i wasn’t running when i brought it years back and it would start and run but needed the revs high and foot on the pedal, or it would eventually stall , especially when It warmed up ,
turned out the rubber vacuum tube had perished and it was air leak causing problems, i’m probably wrong but worth a look
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ThwodXeJ[/url]
turned out the rubber vacuum tube had perished and it was air leak causing problems, i’m probably wrong but worth a look
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ThwodXeJ[/url]
bobs280i said:
my 1986 280i wasn’t running when i brought it years back and it would start and run but needed the revs high and foot on the pedal, or it would eventually stall , especially when It warmed up ,
turned out the rubber vacuum tube had perished and it was air leak causing problems, i’m probably wrong but worth a look
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ThwodXeJ[/url]
thats a good advise!!! i would remove this hose and bent it reverse...so you can see if the rubber is cracked on the interal-side of the 90degee ellbow....as far as i know this hose cannot be supplied anymore by Ford...but its quite easy to replace it by some aftermarket silicone-hosesturned out the rubber vacuum tube had perished and it was air leak causing problems, i’m probably wrong but worth a look
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ThwodXeJ[/url]
Thanks for your suggestion. I had several replies and tried trouble shooting all of them. Got your suggestion after I was frustrated and decided to bring it into my mechanic without looking at what you said could be the problem. Immediately the mechanic looked at the bellows and sure enough that was the problem. He put duct tape on the cut it and the problem was fixed. Not your problem but wish I got your suggestion first as it was the easiest thing to fix.
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
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