TVR 1985 280I

TVR 1985 280I

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Discussion

Stock 333

Original Poster:

8 posts

34 months

Sunday 17th April 2022
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Car starts up fine. after a few minutes the idle will drop down and the car will stall out. If I try to restart it only the engine will turn but not fire up. If i want about 3 to 4 minutes it will restart just fine again.

Any idea why its stalling out and will not restart right away.

Thanks

Mark

s m

23,596 posts

213 months

Sunday 17th April 2022
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Fuel pressure maybe?

Miserablegit

4,203 posts

119 months

Sunday 17th April 2022
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Fuel pump overheating perhaps?

Miserablegit

4,203 posts

119 months

Sunday 17th April 2022
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This is an old thread which might be of use

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

LLantrisant

1,002 posts

169 months

Monday 18th April 2022
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the main question here is: when did this problem start? out of a sudden or did you or somebody else some work on the car?
or was it into storage over winter etc....

could be fuel-pump related, fuel-pump relais related or lots of other things....

Polly Grigora

11,209 posts

119 months

Monday 18th April 2022
quotequote all
You might benefit from checking the supply voltage at the ignition coil before and after it stalls before getting in deeper

The coil supply voltage can only be measured correctly by having the coil load on/in the circuit

A bad supply or a supply through a ballast resistor will still measure as 12 volt when the coil load isn't on/in the circuit

You need to remove all cables from the ignition coil negative terminal

Use a jump lead to connect the coil negative to battery negative or a known good earth

Now switch the ignition on and measure the voltage at the coil positive

Don't leave the ignition on for too long as the coil could overheat, 10 to 15 seconds isn't a problem

You will have then measured the supply voltage to the coil while it is under coil load (coil is drawing current)

Edited by Polly Grigora on Monday 18th April 12:00

bobs280i

290 posts

150 months

Saturday 23rd April 2022
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my 1986 280i wasn’t running when i brought it years back and it would start and run but needed the revs high and foot on the pedal, or it would eventually stall , especially when It warmed up ,
turned out the rubber vacuum tube had perished and it was air leak causing problems, i’m probably wrong but worth a look
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ThwodXeJ[/url]

mark387mw

2,190 posts

277 months

Saturday 23rd April 2022
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Try another ignition module if you can get/borrow one.

LLantrisant

1,002 posts

169 months

Sunday 24th April 2022
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bobs280i said:
my 1986 280i wasn’t running when i brought it years back and it would start and run but needed the revs high and foot on the pedal, or it would eventually stall , especially when It warmed up ,
turned out the rubber vacuum tube had perished and it was air leak causing problems, i’m probably wrong but worth a look
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/ThwodXeJ[/url]
thats a good advise!!! i would remove this hose and bent it reverse...so you can see if the rubber is cracked on the interal-side of the 90degee ellbow....as far as i know this hose cannot be supplied anymore by Ford...but its quite easy to replace it by some aftermarket silicone-hoses

Stock 333

Original Poster:

8 posts

34 months

Thursday 28th April 2022
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Thanks for your suggestion. I had several replies and tried trouble shooting all of them. Got your suggestion after I was frustrated and decided to bring it into my mechanic without looking at what you said could be the problem. Immediately the mechanic looked at the bellows and sure enough that was the problem. He put duct tape on the cut it and the problem was fixed. Not your problem but wish I got your suggestion first as it was the easiest thing to fix.

Thanks

Mark

bobs280i

290 posts

150 months

Friday 29th April 2022
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Awesome great to hear ,
This is definitely the best site to be on !
everyone is always here to help !
enjoy your Wedge mate