Flexible Brake Lines
Discussion
I'm in the process of tracing a fault on the rear brakes of my 450SE. They are both binding badly after the brake has been applied, nearly solid. I've removed the master cylinder and G valve but they have not released at all. I discovered yesterday that it could be the flexible hose breaking down and not allowing the pressure to be released, which sounds a lightly cause, as the rear discs are supplied by only one line to the two callipers. Also how do you get to the hose as it's above the diff?
If I find this is the fault, is there a standard kit for this car (fingers crossed) or do I need to remove them and try to find a company who can make me a copy, if so could anyone give me some names to contact. Or does someone have a part number for replacements. While I'm doing the rear I might as well do the fronts as well.
You may have guessed, I have never needed to replace flexible hoses before.
If I find this is the fault, is there a standard kit for this car (fingers crossed) or do I need to remove them and try to find a company who can make me a copy, if so could anyone give me some names to contact. Or does someone have a part number for replacements. While I'm doing the rear I might as well do the fronts as well.
You may have guessed, I have never needed to replace flexible hoses before.
Could well be collapsed hose or just pistons seized.
I would have thought standard Jag.
Have a look here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
CTRL F. Search the page for brake or hose.
List of wedge parts towards the top of the forum page.
Fronts, reading on here depends on what you have up-front. You will need to research and find the donor parts. Again a starting point is the document linked above.
It's all about threaded end sizes and length, There are lots of places that do hoses.
Then it's play hunt the part.
There are a couple of TVR suppliers, but I find them a bit dearer unless the part is ultra-hard to find.
My go-to place of late is Rob Sport International. Although they are not TVR their cars (TR8) are SD1 derived, They are also very helpful with questions. I have assumed you are a V8 variant?
Could try Racing Green not the cheapest for bits though.
I would have thought standard Jag.
Have a look here
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
CTRL F. Search the page for brake or hose.
List of wedge parts towards the top of the forum page.
Fronts, reading on here depends on what you have up-front. You will need to research and find the donor parts. Again a starting point is the document linked above.
It's all about threaded end sizes and length, There are lots of places that do hoses.
Then it's play hunt the part.
There are a couple of TVR suppliers, but I find them a bit dearer unless the part is ultra-hard to find.
My go-to place of late is Rob Sport International. Although they are not TVR their cars (TR8) are SD1 derived, They are also very helpful with questions. I have assumed you are a V8 variant?
Could try Racing Green not the cheapest for bits though.
Steve
That's a company I do not know, but will have a good look on their website.
Update on problem. Just got the rear of car higher up on some larger axle stands, I can reach the hose and it's looking at one end very rusty so I may be narrowing down the problem.
Thanks for all the help.
That's a company I do not know, but will have a good look on their website.
Update on problem. Just got the rear of car higher up on some larger axle stands, I can reach the hose and it's looking at one end very rusty so I may be narrowing down the problem.
Thanks for all the help.
You will need to remove the handbrake cable first and see if it is that which is causing the binding. Next you can see if the handbrake levers are free on each caliper as they are prone to seize.
You will have to remove the brake pipes, the flexi in and the cross-over pipe.
Remove the main pads. This will show you if a piston (or 2) are sticking.
So if one or more of the parts above are causing the binding then the calipers probably have to come off. now the fun starts as the bolts securing the caliper are wire locked and near impossible to get at but can be done.
I've done 2 cars which had to be dragged off trailers with both sides fully locked up. Both had to be done in the carpark as there was no way to get them on the ramp.
If you find the handbrake lever on the caliper is seized be very careful trying to remove the pin as it is very easy to break the pin then very very difficult to get the broken piece out. If you can spare the time leave it to soak in some penetrant such as diesel for days (plenty). To describe the pin imagine a set screw (bolt with thread up to the head) about 50mm long. The thread has been removed up to about 10mm below the head. It is screwed into the caliper and the pin section is the pivot for the handbrake pad carrier. The pin seizes in the pad carrier. If you lean to hard trying to undo the bolt it will break where the thread ends and leave the pin jambed down in the hole.
Steve
You will have to remove the brake pipes, the flexi in and the cross-over pipe.
Remove the main pads. This will show you if a piston (or 2) are sticking.
So if one or more of the parts above are causing the binding then the calipers probably have to come off. now the fun starts as the bolts securing the caliper are wire locked and near impossible to get at but can be done.
I've done 2 cars which had to be dragged off trailers with both sides fully locked up. Both had to be done in the carpark as there was no way to get them on the ramp.
If you find the handbrake lever on the caliper is seized be very careful trying to remove the pin as it is very easy to break the pin then very very difficult to get the broken piece out. If you can spare the time leave it to soak in some penetrant such as diesel for days (plenty). To describe the pin imagine a set screw (bolt with thread up to the head) about 50mm long. The thread has been removed up to about 10mm below the head. It is screwed into the caliper and the pin section is the pivot for the handbrake pad carrier. The pin seizes in the pad carrier. If you lean to hard trying to undo the bolt it will break where the thread ends and leave the pin jambed down in the hole.
Steve
The saga continues.
Removed the rear flexible hose and tried blowing down it. Blowing from the master cylinder end air passed straight through but blowing from the rear calliper end showed it was blocked. A few more puffs and it cleared but a milky liquid which was quite thick dripped out. I thought I was getting closer to solving the problem as when I removed the rear pads all I needed to do was push the pads back by hand and the pistons moved back. I now know what brake fluid tastes like when some come out of the open brake line.
Taking Steve_D's advice I contacted HEL who were very helpful and three days later a nice new red hose popped through the mail box. Fitted said new hose and guess what - the callipers are as solid as before. So after Easter it's calliper removal time.
Removed the rear flexible hose and tried blowing down it. Blowing from the master cylinder end air passed straight through but blowing from the rear calliper end showed it was blocked. A few more puffs and it cleared but a milky liquid which was quite thick dripped out. I thought I was getting closer to solving the problem as when I removed the rear pads all I needed to do was push the pads back by hand and the pistons moved back. I now know what brake fluid tastes like when some come out of the open brake line.
Taking Steve_D's advice I contacted HEL who were very helpful and three days later a nice new red hose popped through the mail box. Fitted said new hose and guess what - the callipers are as solid as before. So after Easter it's calliper removal time.
Here's a couple of articles brake related that may help if you have not already found them:
https://tvrcarclub.de/knowledgebase/refurbishing-t...
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/Rear%20brake%20calip...
https://tvrcarclub.de/knowledgebase/refurbishing-t...
http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/Rear%20brake%20calip...
Yesterday was fun. The easy job, removing copper brake line between callipers after leaving top calliper bolt with the first few threads still connected so as not to put stress on the piping. Once all bolts removed they say it's just manoeuvring the callipers through the chassis, this is where the fun started. After 30 years my chassis had decided that the callipers are staying with the car and will not relinquish them to me. Three hours of pushing and pulling and tasting more brake fluid they are still in the car. There must be an easy way for their exit but I'm just not seeing it yet.
So if anyone knows the trick to get them out, or the magic word that opens up the chassis please let me know.
Once they do come out I will get them serviced either doing it myself or a company. Does anyone know of a company they can recommend, hopefully in the East Midlands area as I would like to deliver them myself. But also would travel further a field for the right company.
I might find that when I get to the car today the chassis has spat them out and they are on the floor waiting for me, fingers crossed.
So if anyone knows the trick to get them out, or the magic word that opens up the chassis please let me know.
Once they do come out I will get them serviced either doing it myself or a company. Does anyone know of a company they can recommend, hopefully in the East Midlands area as I would like to deliver them myself. But also would travel further a field for the right company.
I might find that when I get to the car today the chassis has spat them out and they are on the floor waiting for me, fingers crossed.
Good morning.
They will come out, but it is a fiddly job. I think I removed as many of the handbrake elements first, then up as high as possible and a twist! If you look at the photo of an earlier poster with that unbelievably perfect chassis (!) you can see the wriggle room.
I refurbished the pistons and seals with a kit I bought via Ebay but I believe TVR Parts also have one.
Good luck.
John
They will come out, but it is a fiddly job. I think I removed as many of the handbrake elements first, then up as high as possible and a twist! If you look at the photo of an earlier poster with that unbelievably perfect chassis (!) you can see the wriggle room.
I refurbished the pistons and seals with a kit I bought via Ebay but I believe TVR Parts also have one.
Good luck.
John
I just dropped the diff to make life easy, and while I was at it I fitted new bushes to the A frames. With the diff out it was a doddle. I bought a rebuild kit from one of the Jaguar specialists and rebuilt the calipers myself. I've rebuild many over the years without an issue but many people prefer to use Bigg Red for their rebuilds.
Success
Taking Johns advice about going at it at high level, it worked. Both callipers removed in about 20 minutes.
My route, just for anyone looking at this in the future was: Lift the calliper up above the disc and move it to the centre of the diff. Move it towards where the prop shaft meets the diff and pass it forward into the small box section over the prop and turn it so it fits through the chassis towards the exhaust pipe (left of diff). Both callipers were removed from the left side.
This afternoon it's pistons out time, keep watching.
And thanks again John and all of you for your help.
Taking Johns advice about going at it at high level, it worked. Both callipers removed in about 20 minutes.
My route, just for anyone looking at this in the future was: Lift the calliper up above the disc and move it to the centre of the diff. Move it towards where the prop shaft meets the diff and pass it forward into the small box section over the prop and turn it so it fits through the chassis towards the exhaust pipe (left of diff). Both callipers were removed from the left side.
This afternoon it's pistons out time, keep watching.
And thanks again John and all of you for your help.
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