Wire connectors

[Lesliehedley]

What sort of connectors do people use for wires in the doors? I'm adding relays to the electric windows and rewiring the circuit using higher rated cable to give the motors more current if they need it in an attempt to speed them up. But I've hit a problem. The connectors in the doors are old and past it. So I need some new ones. I think they need to be weatherproof since the doors probably get water in them in the rain. They also need to be high current otherwise it would defeat the purpose of fitting higher rated cables. And finally, I need two wire and four wire connectors. I can find connectors to do these things but none of them do all three. What have other people used for high current weatherproof connectors. Any help appreciated.

[Penelope Stopit]

Are you using the following method?



If yes, don't fit the relays in the doors, fit relays as close to the doors as possible and use thin-wall cable https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/70/... from relays into the doors

Below are some waterproof plugs. If using a 3 way and leaving one aperture unused, fit the seals and fill with sealant

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-8mm-Large-Cu...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Motor-Plug-4...

[adam quantrill]

Nice connectors.

Just to put the cat among the pigeons, for extra weather resistance, after crimping, solder the copper-spade crimp, as it also keeps the water out, and gives you one last line of defense.

Also pack the connector with vaseline before clicking together.

[KKson]

Don't mention crimping......here we go again......

[Lesliehedley]

Thanks for the suggestions. Both those ebay listings are from China and I would have to wait until May for them. This is the last item on my list before I put the dashboard back in so I'd prefer not to wait that long. Also, they are only 2 and 3 way, and don't say what the maximum current is. I need 2 and 4 way connectors. Surely there must be a supplier in this country? I've tried all the ones I can think of but with no joy.

[Englishman]

Have you tried https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/

Always found what I've needed there.

[Penelope Stopit]

Ok then

Having to guess this due to lack of information

Does heavy duty for the 2 way motor connectors and lighter duty for the switching circuits sound good to you ?

If answer is yes

Here are some 2 way 30 Amp waterproof connectors for the motors
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/superseal-28-series...

Here are some 4 way 14 amp waterproof connectors for the switching circuits
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/superseal-waterproo...

The problem is that the above 2 way aren't in stock, 4 to 6 days is mentioned but????

These 3 way connectors could be used and changed to 2 way later if there is a long delay with delivery of stock
even so, these 3 way connectors are in short supply, there seems to be 5 of them in stock, add to basket is rejecting an order higher than 5
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/superseal-28-series...

Go on, be a devil and post up where you are fitting the relays, please

[TrumpyM]

Try 3 Way Components (https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/3waycomponents). I got loads of stuff from them when I was rewiring my 2500M They are really helpful if you give them a call. Have a look at the Mate N Lock connectors.

[Penelope Stopit]

The connectors at the website posted above by Englishman do look identical to those at 12voltplanet, they don't seem to have a specification page with current ratings but are in stock

If they are the very same connectors, 12voltplanet connector specification can be used

[BlueWedgy]

From my Quality automotive truck days (In a past life), Amp and Tyco seals were commonly used by OEM manufacturers MAN, Volvo, Daimler etc, and very good at not allowing water ingress.
Soldering is not really required providing the crimp uses the correct die sets and pressures. As a matter of fact, lab tests proved that soldered joints were detrimental and could lead to premature failures due to fractures under certain vibration conditions. When all used correctly together the Tyco little rubber seal acts as a shock absorber as well as preventing ingress of dust and water.

[Lesliehedley]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I have found a supplier for the superseal connectors with a wide choice of sizes (activesenseandsecure.co.uk). Penelope, I am using my own circuit diagram but it is the same as yours in principle. I have had to put the relays behind the dash on the centre console, purely through lack of space anywhere else. I have tried to lessen the effect of this by running 33 amp cable from them directly to the doors.

[Penelope Stopit]

Lesliehedley said:

Penelope, I am using my own circuit diagram but it is the same as yours in principle. I have had to put the relays behind the dash on the centre console, purely through lack of space anywhere else. I have tried to lessen the effect of this by running 33 amp cable from them directly to the doors.

https://activatesenseandsecure.co.uk/

Nice find

You mention tried to lessen the effect, you have lessened the volt-drop to similar figures measured when relays are close to the doors and supplying the motors with anything from 16 to 25 Amp cable

The motors might draw 20/25 Amps at start up but rapidly drop below 20

Wouldn't be surprised if you were seeing approximately 0.25 volts volt-drop or less using 33 Amp rated cable

It's a winner for me and no more arcing switch contacts, heaven

[Lesliehedley]

Interesting that you say 'The motors might draw 20/25 Amps at start up but rapidly drop below 20'. Part of the reason I added the relays was to avoid putting the current through the switches, but also because I checked the original TVR wiring and it is not thin wall cable and rated at 8.5 amp, which I thought was a little on the low side when the motors are struggling as they often do in TVRs.

[Penelope Stopit]

Didn't know that TVR were using 14/0.30 standard PVC cable to power the Wedge window motors, this really is as bad as it gets

Regarding the motor start-up current, fitted and wired electric windows to my Peugeot 306 2 years ago and relayed the circuits, took a guess at fuse size rather than measure the start-up current (couldn't be bothered, downside of being involved with automotive electrics for many years) and fitted 20 Amp blade fuses, one fuse for left and one fuse for right

20 Amp fuses kept blowing if I wasn't very quick off the switches when the windows reached their closed positions

Failed haven't I, am commenting about start-up current yet it was the motor braked current that blew the fuses

Start-up current won't be far behind though

30 Amp fuses solved the problem

Will never cease to amaze me what manufacturers attempt to and sometimes do get away with

14/0.30 standard PVC cable to power the Wedge window motors, crazy

Enjoy the fast windows

Edited by Penelope Stopit on Friday 2nd April 09:03