350i New Owner

[CJD2005]

Hi All, I have now become the owner of an 85 350i wedge, its been laid up in a barn for a number of years, the previous owner (friend of the family) has become ill so I have bought it to try and get it back on the road. I have previously owned an S1, so I am used to the frustration of owning a TVR!

I'm sure I will be on here for some advice, I put fuel in it two days ago, new battery and its actually trying to start but won't! So the numerous checks begin........

Chris

[Rockettvr]

Congratulations....and good luck with the recommissioning- hopefully not too much to do to get it back on the road

[adam quantrill]

If it's not already been done, pull all the plugs and put a few cc of oil down each hole.
Also put a ping of oil into the filler and then turn it over (plugs still out) this will get a bit of oil over the dry bits, as it has been laid up.

When you get it started check the oil pressure and get it up to 1500-2000 rpm for a couple of minutes which gets oil up to the camshaft.

[CJD2005]

Very good advice, thankyou. Just a quick one on testing the fuel pump when your on your own, what's the simplest way?

[nwarner]

Hi Chris

I presume as it's an '85 that it has the flapper system. If so take the air filter off, turn on the ignition, then press the flap in on the AFM. You should then be able to hear the pump running and building up pressure in the fuel system

I hope that helps

Nige

[CJD2005]

Thanks Nige, I did read about that on some really old posts, I will give that a go. If the pump doesn't run I should be able to check voltage at the pump to confirm if pump is at fault or not.. If the pump runs what does that mean, clearly something is not signalling pump when trying to start.. Sorry I am reading up on the fuel system to get my head around it.

[mrzigazaga]

Hi , welcome to the mad world of Wedges..personally I would of drained out any old fuel...flushed and replaced with fresh, but before starting would of replaced pump, and filters, swirlpots if fitted can be full of rust...and the settled crud in tanks is not good, fuel becomes like syrup when left for long periods..People have had hoses breaking down recently internally, and especially with the 5% ethanol (E5) soon to be E10 and then E15.. it is important to change all fuel hoses to ethanol proof grade...or Kunifer copper for the long runs from tank to fuel rail...

[KKson]

Agree with Mark in that the hose replacement is a must plus you should flush the tanks and fit a new fuel filter before doing much else. Its easy enough to clamp the fuel line, pull the fuel pump and temporarily power it up to check it. No point spending £120 if its ok. If pump is not powering up it could be the red pektron relay. These are now available new....

[CJD2005]

Best place to buy fuel pump, many on ebay?

[KKson]

Last one I had, I bought it off RT Racing in Sheffield. They are a TVR specialist so I trusted their choice of pump.

[adam quantrill]

you need to trigger the running (powering) of the fuel pump before deciding it's toast.
There are plenty of diagnostic articles on here, but basically, ignition on, air filter off, and gently push the air meter flap in. That should power it.

Also look at putting in a coarse (100 micron) pre-filter just before the pump to catch any crud. You can get cheap ones for about 4 quid.

Some helpful articles:

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 2nd December 19:13

[CJD2005]

Hi All, so I pushed the flap at the AFM and the fuel pump runs, however still can not get started, I followed some of the checks on the wedge epistles and I found a difference on pin 10 of the ecu plug, when disconnected and ignition off I get 12V anf with ignition on I get 0v, is this normal?

[mk1fan]

Spray easy start into the plenum and try starting it. Two person job.

If it starts and runs then you know it is fuel blockage some where.

If it continues to run after you stop spraying then you may have a vacuum leak.

Don't spray for long. 30-secs should be fine. Stop spraying if it starts and see if it runs. Don't keep it running on spray.

[CJD2005]

I did disconnect the fuel line at the injector rail and although I have not checked the pressure fuel was flowing when pump running.

[nwarner]

Hi

As it's been sitting a long time your injectors could be gummed up or not firing. Check the resistor pack outputs. Try the damp start suggestion and if it starts and doesn't keep running this could be the problem.

Nige

[CJD2005]

Yes has sat a long time, will try that next thanks all!!

[KKson]

Have you got a big fat spark at the plugs? Also when you crank it does the exhaust smell of petrol? Try cranking it and then pull a few spark plugs to see if they are wet.

[CJD2005]

So.... Tried the damp start, no joy... Injectors are not opening, however if I stick 3v across them I can hear them open and close, so is not getting a signal.. I've tested most things, I'm getting 12v to the injector plugs before cranking. Resistor pack tests out OK.

However as mentioned previously I'm still getting 12v to pin 10 on the ecu plug when ignition off, and 0v when ignition on.??

I'm looking to get the ecu checked out as I don't know what state its currently in.. Am I missing something simple, quite happy to have ecu checked for piece of mind..

[KKson]

What we need here is input from Penelope.......

[Pumpkin123]

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

I think pin 10 should be 12v with ignition on as it also drives fuel pump and injector resistors.