280i 14" wheel lug nut torque setting?
Discussion
phillpot said:
That doesn't sound a lot?
something around 75-85 lb/ft would seem more like it to me for a 7/16 or M12 nut
Must admit I never use a torque wrench on my wheels - just do it by feel and experience. in any event, you shouldn't overtighten alloy wheels, and certainly not as tight as steels.something around 75-85 lb/ft would seem more like it to me for a 7/16 or M12 nut
My modern cars all have a torque of approx 100lbft for there lug nuts and my battery impact gun can just get them off. Two lug nuts on my newly acquired 1984 TVR 280I were so tight that my battery impact gun wouldn't remove them and we had to get the big air gun out. They must have been torqued to 110 or higher and the bolts appear to be fine. When we put the wheels back on we tightened the lugs to 80ftlb, hopefully that's ok and I feel safer than the 40ftlbs listed in the manual.
That's a bit high IMHO, even for modern cars, 100lbft is 135 Nm. I'd agree 40lbft is a bit low, my Triumph Toledo was something like that but it did only have 3/8" studs.
My Griff I do to 105 Nm (77 lbft), it allows for a bit of wear in my wrench
. Recommendation is 75 lbft I think. With only 4 wheel nuts, it does appear to be a bit low but perhaps the Ford hub threads aren't up to much more. The owners manual for my SLK 350 states 110 Nm and the highest I've had on any car was a Boxster at 130Nm (96lbft). I expect 4 x 4 cars are higher
No I've never had a wheel come off in 39 years of driving. Every time I get a different car, I crack the wheel nuts and do them up again to the correct torque. I'd say about 50% of the time, they've been done up far too tight with an airgun.
This is all due to an experience with my first car when I had a puncture on the M32 into Bristol in 1985. All cars had spares then, but I couldn't get one of the wheel nuts off on my Hillman Avenger. The RAC smiled at a 6ft 2 bloke with 2 passengers until he tried. He had to get a piece of pipe about 5 feet long out of his van to get it loose. It may have been corrosion (it was dark, the night Dennis Taylor beat Steve Davis on the last black, snooker on the radio!!) and not just overtight but it's something I've been in the habit of checking ever since. I often take wheels loose to get tyres rather than let a monkey loose with air gun.
My Griff I do to 105 Nm (77 lbft), it allows for a bit of wear in my wrench
. Recommendation is 75 lbft I think. With only 4 wheel nuts, it does appear to be a bit low but perhaps the Ford hub threads aren't up to much more. The owners manual for my SLK 350 states 110 Nm and the highest I've had on any car was a Boxster at 130Nm (96lbft). I expect 4 x 4 cars are higherNo I've never had a wheel come off in 39 years of driving. Every time I get a different car, I crack the wheel nuts and do them up again to the correct torque. I'd say about 50% of the time, they've been done up far too tight with an airgun.
This is all due to an experience with my first car when I had a puncture on the M32 into Bristol in 1985. All cars had spares then, but I couldn't get one of the wheel nuts off on my Hillman Avenger. The RAC smiled at a 6ft 2 bloke with 2 passengers until he tried. He had to get a piece of pipe about 5 feet long out of his van to get it loose. It may have been corrosion (it was dark, the night Dennis Taylor beat Steve Davis on the last black, snooker on the radio!!) and not just overtight but it's something I've been in the habit of checking ever since. I often take wheels loose to get tyres rather than let a monkey loose with air gun.
Personally I go for feel and never had an issue, however all is explained here:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/wheel-l...
The big Issue is the quick fit type lot, who use an impact driver so hard that I have had studs snap trying to remove the nut.
With alloy wheels I would also crack them off periodically and re-tighten them.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/wheel-l...
The big Issue is the quick fit type lot, who use an impact driver so hard that I have had studs snap trying to remove the nut.
With alloy wheels I would also crack them off periodically and re-tighten them.
Edited by BlueWedgy on Sunday 3rd March 20:19
I looked up the wheel torque settings for my cars on discount tire (largest USA tire retailer) and they list: -
town car 100 ft-lbs
Malibu 100 ft-lbs
Sky 100 ft-lbs
Equus 90 ft-lbs
A4 90 ft-lbs
Tacoma 85 ft-lbs
Genesis 80 ft-lbs
Crossfire 80 ft-lbs
Spitfire 80 ft-lbs (but that must be wrong)
I know we have too many cars, but 80 ft-lbs still feels about right for the 1984 TVR 280i (40 ft-lbs listed in the book definitely feels low). I once had a wheel fly off and that's an exciting experience that I hope I won't experience again, thus the interest in torque settings.
town car 100 ft-lbs
Malibu 100 ft-lbs
Sky 100 ft-lbs
Equus 90 ft-lbs
A4 90 ft-lbs
Tacoma 85 ft-lbs
Genesis 80 ft-lbs
Crossfire 80 ft-lbs
Spitfire 80 ft-lbs (but that must be wrong)
I know we have too many cars, but 80 ft-lbs still feels about right for the 1984 TVR 280i (40 ft-lbs listed in the book definitely feels low). I once had a wheel fly off and that's an exciting experience that I hope I won't experience again, thus the interest in torque settings.
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