280i common trouble spots
Discussion
As a past 280i owner I'd say check the chassis for rust and make sure the gearbox seems okay, as both can end up being big jobs to remedy.
Other than that keep an eye on the electrics (especially the pop up headlights).
Oh, and buy Steve Heath's Wedge Bible - it should provide you with most (if not all) of the information you need.
Other than that keep an eye on the electrics (especially the pop up headlights).
Oh, and buy Steve Heath's Wedge Bible - it should provide you with most (if not all) of the information you need.
I would say the electric windows are more important than the headlights as the headlight motors are easy to obtain TR7 parts - however no-one seems to know where the windows motors are from (Italy??).
I would add rear UJs (relatively easy to sort), rear brakes/handbrake (particularly on little used cars), bodged electrics, interior condition & hood (if these are important to you)
I would add rear UJs (relatively easy to sort), rear brakes/handbrake (particularly on little used cars), bodged electrics, interior condition & hood (if these are important to you)
Danny, you've just quoted all my Tasmin's faults perfectly!
Big one is the electric windows... I managed to find a couple who were converting their Tasmin FHC for the Tasmin Challenge, and they gave me theirs. However, the windows still aren't right.. I have to "adjust" them every time I want to put the roof up.
Also, check the seals and the carpet for any signs of damp / decay. But I s'pose that's part of the Wedge charm!
Big one is the electric windows... I managed to find a couple who were converting their Tasmin FHC for the Tasmin Challenge, and they gave me theirs. However, the windows still aren't right.. I have to "adjust" them every time I want to put the roof up.
Also, check the seals and the carpet for any signs of damp / decay. But I s'pose that's part of the Wedge charm!
quote:
Oh, and buy Steve Heath's Wedge Bible - it should provide you with most (if not all) of the information you need.
When you have a Wedge you sure need Steve's Bible.
The most difficult (or "interesting") things are the electrics. You can expect anything (I know it...)
The window motor is another strange thing. I had to make the left window manual (push=down, pull=up)
But I love it; the looks and (of cause) the sound.
My window problem was with the window guides... the rubber's coroded so the window doesn't always come up straight. Also, the mounting holes for the window motors had enlarged, so the motor use to move!
But get a copy of Steve's bible... it's the dogs.
>> Edited by jonknight on Tuesday 2nd July 12:26
But get a copy of Steve's bible... it's the dogs.
>> Edited by jonknight on Tuesday 2nd July 12:26
quote:
Black wiring was on early cars up to early 1982 if I remember rightly - the wires had coloured rings originally but after 20 years you can imagine how many will be left!!
Not exactly... On the papers belonging to my wedge stands it's from '83, but the wiring are all black. But I also know the chassisnr is from june (not sure, could be july too) '82. I guess it took a while before it was sold.
quote:
Big one is the electric windows... I managed to find a couple who were converting their Tasmin FHC for the Tasmin Challenge, and they gave me theirs.
I found that the motor and mechanism is basically the same as used in the doors of Rover SDi's with electric windows. Not too easy to find in the breakers these days. i think i had to drill out a couple of rivets and re-use part of the TVR mechanism.
Good Luck,
Mick
Black wiring is not THAT much trouble: you know where it starts and roughly where it ends, so as long as the harness hasn't been trapped or torched, there aren't many bits to go wrong. It's worth knowing that there are a couple of BIG multipole connectors in the o/s headlamp recess, one or two in the n/s, and a bullet connector in the fuel pump feed, cable-tied to the chassis down in the depths of the engine bay (front n/s). Take the time to understand how the electrics for the headlamps work, and diagnosing faults with them becomes pretty simple.
Window winders have been said to be ex-Reliant Scimitar, not that THAT helps much. In my 390 they are marked 'CIM', one has 'Rockwell Automotive' on it. Gosh, that's useful..... ;-)
For dash switches and so on, try Lucas agents directly. Anyone else will add a fat cut on, and when some of the switches run at 60 quid each, you can do without it.
The window channel rubbers can be had from Paul Beck vintage supplies in Norfolk, amongst others.
W.
Window winders have been said to be ex-Reliant Scimitar, not that THAT helps much. In my 390 they are marked 'CIM', one has 'Rockwell Automotive' on it. Gosh, that's useful..... ;-)
For dash switches and so on, try Lucas agents directly. Anyone else will add a fat cut on, and when some of the switches run at 60 quid each, you can do without it.
The window channel rubbers can be had from Paul Beck vintage supplies in Norfolk, amongst others.
W.
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