Broken easyout
Discussion
Have a look at this. It may help.
http://www.gis.net/~manjo/removing_broken_studs_bo...
Here's someone with the same problem.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/broken-easy-out-no...
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195...
http://www.gis.net/~manjo/removing_broken_studs_bo...
Here's someone with the same problem.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/broken-easy-out-no...
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195...
I have never liked using easy outs, there tapered shape makes them tighten up the bolt to the threaded hole if its small bolts or studs. What i do if there is any part of the stud pocking out or level is to bore a hole in a bit of flat bar and weld threw it onto the top of the broken stud then turn the flat bar, you could do the same to get out the easy out. The other thing is to batter it with a punch and hammer, the shock going threw it is often all thats needed, i do this with any bolt/ stud that i think is going to snap or round off and most of the time works ok, just a few taps with the hammer.
Edited by wight jr on Saturday 5th January 20:35
wight jr said:
I have never liked using easy outs, there tapered shape makes them tighten up the bolt to the threaded hole if its small bolts or studs. What i do if there is any part of the stud pocking out or level is to bore a hole in a bit of flat bar and weld threw it onto the top of the broken stud then turn the flat bar, you could do the same to get out the easy out. The other thing is to batter it with a punch and hammer, the shock going threw it is often all thats needed, i do this with any bolt/ stud that i think is going to snap or round off and most of the time works ok, just a few taps with the hammer.
As above but weld a nut (sized to suit the broken part) on & turn it out using a socket/ratchet.Edited by wight jr on Saturday 5th January 20:35
Co.
Thanks everyone for the replies.
I did think of welding a bolt on so tried it on the broken easyout first that wasn't attached to the engine. I used mig with a flux cored wire but the weld didn't take properly to the easyout and i couldnt see how it would work with such a restricted access with the piece still in the head. I hadn't thought of using flat bar with a hole drilled and then welding through the hole..... I think I'll go give that a try next. I think my son originally chose too big an easyout, the part he was trying to remove was already hollow and made of brass (i think,temp sender) and the easyout just pushed through the brass and everything locked up. To answer thinfourth2 we are in Arbroath.
Thanks again for all the replies..... I guess I'm in the garage again today ......
I did think of welding a bolt on so tried it on the broken easyout first that wasn't attached to the engine. I used mig with a flux cored wire but the weld didn't take properly to the easyout and i couldnt see how it would work with such a restricted access with the piece still in the head. I hadn't thought of using flat bar with a hole drilled and then welding through the hole..... I think I'll go give that a try next. I think my son originally chose too big an easyout, the part he was trying to remove was already hollow and made of brass (i think,temp sender) and the easyout just pushed through the brass and everything locked up. To answer thinfourth2 we are in Arbroath.
Thanks again for all the replies..... I guess I'm in the garage again today ......
Easy outs are pretty hard so it will not weld very well to mild steel.
A hard weld would be needed for a good join. (a bit specialised)
If you can make any sort of mark in it with a centre punch try hitting the easy out side on in a revolving fashion. Obviously in the correct direction to loosen it.
Have you removed the head from the car?
If it is removed and you know an engineering shop with a spark erosion machine they would spark it out for you or spark a hex in to the easy out to suit an alan key.
Not such an easy out after all!
A hard weld would be needed for a good join. (a bit specialised)
If you can make any sort of mark in it with a centre punch try hitting the easy out side on in a revolving fashion. Obviously in the correct direction to loosen it.
Have you removed the head from the car?
If it is removed and you know an engineering shop with a spark erosion machine they would spark it out for you or spark a hex in to the easy out to suit an alan key.
Not such an easy out after all!
Edited by Reidy10_0 on Monday 7th January 23:13
Reidy10_0 said:
Easy outs are pretty hard so it will not weld very well to mild steel.
A hard weld would be needed for a good join. (a bit specialised)
If you can make any sort of mark in it with a centre punch try hitting the easy out side on in a revolving fashion. Obviously in the correct direction to loosen it.
Have you removed the head from the car?
If it is removed and you know an engineering shop with a spark erosion machine they would spark it out for you or spark a hex in to the easy out to suit an alan key.
Not such an easy out after all!
I got the Welder at my work to do it & he used a small rod (light blue in colour but too long ago to remember the type) normally worked though.A hard weld would be needed for a good join. (a bit specialised)
If you can make any sort of mark in it with a centre punch try hitting the easy out side on in a revolving fashion. Obviously in the correct direction to loosen it.
Have you removed the head from the car?
If it is removed and you know an engineering shop with a spark erosion machine they would spark it out for you or spark a hex in to the easy out to suit an alan key.
Not such an easy out after all!
Edited by Reidy10_0 on Monday 7th January 23:13
Edited by CO2000 on Tuesday 8th January 10:06
You can get carbide drills which will drill a hole in the easy out.
A masonery drill can also be used at a push.
Both drills would need to be used in a pedistal drill or vertical mill to work correctly.
This would not be a option for a pistol drill.
I like the sound of heating up the block for starters and having another go at it.
A masonery drill can also be used at a push.
Both drills would need to be used in a pedistal drill or vertical mill to work correctly.
This would not be a option for a pistol drill.
I like the sound of heating up the block for starters and having another go at it.
Munro is right about it being in a pedestal drill to give you the accuracy needed to start the repair.
Trying to do it with a hand drill is nigh on impossible, and only likely to make it worst.
Your only option is to put a lot of locallised heat in the area, and if you have enough of the easy out showing, wind it off from there with a set of Stillson's (one of the greatest tools in anybody's Snap On box!). If not, it's a head off job. Which may be easier than faffing around and possibly damaging something else. Okay, it's an afternoon of your life spent, but there it is.
Chainguy. Ex mechanic. Who, back in the day in the garage, had sadly done more of these kind of repair jobs for Joe Punter than he would like to count.
Trying to do it with a hand drill is nigh on impossible, and only likely to make it worst.
Your only option is to put a lot of locallised heat in the area, and if you have enough of the easy out showing, wind it off from there with a set of Stillson's (one of the greatest tools in anybody's Snap On box!). If not, it's a head off job. Which may be easier than faffing around and possibly damaging something else. Okay, it's an afternoon of your life spent, but there it is.
Chainguy. Ex mechanic. Who, back in the day in the garage, had sadly done more of these kind of repair jobs for Joe Punter than he would like to count.
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